Footings for Shed - Page 7

On Apr 15, 8:53 pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> > Hello,
> > I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
> > and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
> > to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> > the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
> > make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> > them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> > rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
> > water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> > the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
> > between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> > with the others? What's the process that the pros use?
> > Thanks in advance!
> > Jason
> So you want to go footing and CMUs and beam instead of pier and beam...
> Dig the holes, throw in a chair in each hole. Pour the footings and piers
> (sonobouy or 1X12 cedar form with rebar tied to the chair). Done.
> How many footing/piers depends on the anticipated weight it has to
> support.
> But that was left out for a negative reply from you or another respondent
> anyway. I'll bow out here.
> --
> Dave- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
> On Apr 15, 8:53 pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
>> > Hello,
>> > I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
>> > and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
>> > to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
>> > the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
>> > make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
>> > them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
>> > rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
>> > water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
>> > the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
>> > between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
>> > with the others? What's the process that the pros use?
>> > Thanks in advance!
>> > Jason
>> So you want to go footing and CMUs and beam instead of pier and beam...
>> Dig the holes, throw in a chair in each hole. Pour the footings and piers
>> (sonobouy or 1X12 cedar form with rebar tied to the chair). Done.
>> How many footing/piers depends on the anticipated weight it has to
>> support.
>> But that was left out for a negative reply from you or another respondent
>> anyway. I'll bow out here.
>> --
>> Dave- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
> Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the 'chair' that you're talking
> about thowing into each hole?
> ----------
> Start from the beginning, I assume you understand what pier is, and a
> sonobouy as well.
> A "chair" is what a pier sits on to prevent side to side walking or
> sinking.. Its made of rebar covered by concrete. The "chair" has
> emanations of rebar, integral to the rebar in the chair, above it as part
> of the pier itself.. The pier is then formed up and poured over this same
> rebar emantions from the "chair" below. A sonobouy can be substituted but
> must use the same rebar emanations from the "chair".
> Contrary to Rico's thing on rust. Nothing could be further from the
> truth. No significant rebar rust can occur using the method I mentioned,
> but has nothing to do with the purpose of a "chair". A "chair" is more
> lilkely to be used if the soil can't support the pier as in fractured
> rock, soft soils or sand. Hillside foundation is also a factor in
> choosing a "chair".
> "Chairs" are available for sale. They can easily be created on-site if
> you're into cutting rebar and tying same. Its easier to make a "chair"
> specifically for your needs rather than purchasing a generic "chair" and
> working your way around that chair with mods and so forth for tying into
> the pier or sonobuoy. Typically, in an on-site "chair" fabrication, the
> hole is dug and the chair is "thrown" into the hole. Concrete is poured
> on the rebar chair. The rebar emantions for the pier are adjusted for
> plumb and square with the anticipated foundation prior to the pour. A
> couple of days later, the pier is formed up and poured..
> A simple footer below the frost line may be ample. I don't know your
> locale and soil and elevation slope specifics. Not knowing that, I tend
> to overkill based on the unknown. Read A_S_S_U_M_E.
> --
> Dave
> April 16th, 2009 Day 1 post Tea Party.
> This day in history occurred:
> Nancy Pelosi response was undignified per her allegation that such are
> funded by right wing money big money and attended exclusively by right
> wing extremists.
> White House staff indicated that officially not recognizing the
> nation-wide gatherings in any fashion.
> Some news reporters were found attempting to goad responses from attendees
> at the gatherings with response not filling their (some news reporters) TV
> political needs. Too bad for them.
> Woebama in Mexico. 2nd amendment rights being pinged again. Ignoring
> locking down the U.S/Mexico border again.
> We the people...
> No political party or otherwise in that.
> Locked signature to prevent subsequent historical revisionism.
>

> Dave,
> Your ramblings clearly show your ignorance of reinforced concrete
> construction. NO reinforcing steel should be closer than 3" to the
> subgrade or closer than 2" to an exposed surface. When rebar rusts it
> expands and causes the concrete to fail; the expansion of the steel caused
> by oxidation or expansive rust creates more force than the tensile
> strength of concrete can overcome. This is the reason highway agencies
> all across the country specify epoxy coated rebar for decks, parapets and
> any other concrete exposed to the weather and or chlorides. That means NO
> calcium chloride when it gets chilly.
> Rico attempted to be helpful and your info to the OP was ill advised at
> best.
> Tom
> "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
>> On Apr 15, 8:53 pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
>>> > Hello,
>>> > I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
>>> > and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
>>> > to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
>>> > the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
>>> > make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
>>> > them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
>>> > rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
>>> > water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
>>> > the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
>>> > between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
>>> > with the others? What's the process that the pros use?
>>> > Thanks in advance!
>>> > Jason
>>> So you want to go footing and CMUs and beam instead of pier and beam...
>>> Dig the holes, throw in a chair in each hole. Pour the footings and
>>> piers
>>> (sonobouy or 1X12 cedar form with rebar tied to the chair). Done.
>>> How many footing/piers depends on the anticipated weight it has to
>>> support.
>>> But that was left out for a negative reply from you or another
>>> respondent
>>> anyway. I'll bow out here.
>>> --
>>> Dave- Hide quoted text -
>>> - Show quoted text -
>> Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the 'chair' that you're talking
>> about thowing into each hole?
>> ----------
>> Start from the beginning, I assume you understand what pier is, and a
>> sonobouy as well.
>> A "chair" is what a pier sits on to prevent side to side walking or
>> sinking.. Its made of rebar covered by concrete. The "chair" has
>> emanations of rebar, integral to the rebar in the chair, above it as part
>> of the pier itself.. The pier is then formed up and poured over this
>> same rebar emantions from the "chair" below. A sonobouy can be
>> substituted but must use the same rebar emanations from the "chair".
>> Contrary to Rico's thing on rust. Nothing could be further from the
>> truth. No significant rebar rust can occur using the method I mentioned,
>> but has nothing to do with the purpose of a "chair". A "chair" is more
>> lilkely to be used if the soil can't support the pier as in fractured
>> rock, soft soils or sand. Hillside foundation is also a factor in
>> choosing a "chair".
>> "Chairs" are available for sale. They can easily be created on-site if
>> you're into cutting rebar and tying same. Its easier to make a "chair"
>> specifically for your needs rather than purchasing a generic "chair" and
>> working your way around that chair with mods and so forth for tying into
>> the pier or sonobuoy. Typically, in an on-site "chair" fabrication, the
>> hole is dug and the chair is "thrown" into the hole. Concrete is poured
>> on the rebar chair. The rebar emantions for the pier are adjusted for
>> plumb and square with the anticipated foundation prior to the pour. A
>> couple of days later, the pier is formed up and poured..
>> A simple footer below the frost line may be ample. I don't know your
>> locale and soil and elevation slope specifics. Not knowing that, I tend
>> to overkill based on the unknown. Read A_S_S_U_M_E.
>> --
>> Dave
>> April 16th, 2009 Day 1 post Tea Party.
>> This day in history occurred:
>> Nancy Pelosi response was undignified per her allegation that such are
>> funded by right wing money big money and attended exclusively by right
>> wing extremists.
>> White House staff indicated that officially not recognizing the
>> nation-wide gatherings in any fashion.
>> Some news reporters were found attempting to goad responses from
>> attendees at the gatherings with response not filling their (some news
>> reporters) TV political needs. Too bad for them.
>> Woebama in Mexico. 2nd amendment rights being pinged again. Ignoring
>> locking down the U.S/Mexico border again.
>> We the people...
>> No political party or otherwise in that.
>> Locked signature to prevent subsequent historical revisionism.
>