|
Posted by v8z on July 20, 2007, 10:30 am
> > How are you planning to hold the outside walls if the clng joists
> > are not parallel to the roof rafters? The triangle created by
> > rafters and joists is crucial to the structure.
> >
> > It is possible to create a structural ridge, but this is not usual
> > and requires some careful planning.
> >
> > --
> > ______________________________
> > Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> > DanG (remove the sevens)
> > dgriff...@7cox.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >I am building an attached garage to replace an attached carport.
> > >The
> > > existing carport had a flat roof. The new garage will tie into
> > > the
> > > house's roof with the same slope, 3:12. Although the house has
> > > a hip
> > > roof, the roof over the garage will be a gable roof. The garage
> > > is
> > > approx. 25' x 31'. The ceiling joist will run perpendicular to
> > > the
> > > rafters . The 25' span of the ceiling joist requires either 2 x
> > > 10's
> > > or 2 x 12, depending on whats available at the lumber yard.
> > > With the
> > > shallow slope of the roof, the first joist will be approx. 4'
> > > from the
> > > parallel exterior wall. I plan on adding joists perpendicular to
> > > the
> > > ceiling joists to the exterior wall. I will use joist hangers
> > > for the
> > > connection at the ceiling joist. My question: Is a 4'
> > > perpendicular
> > > joist too long? I assume I will need to add blocking to attach
> > > the
> > > sheetrock. Will the above pass an inspection (IRC 2003)? I will
> > > be
> > > adding stongbacks at 4' o.c. since the ceiling joists run
> > > perpendicular to the rafters.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> The span is approx. 31' if I run the the joists parallel to the
> rafters and the angle cut on the joists would be serve due to the
> shallow slope of the roof. I intend to run the strongback from rafter
> to rafter 4' o.c. The strongback would be the base of the triangle.
Why not take / fax a drawing to a truss company. At that low a pitch there
isn't going to be any usable "attic" space, and overall manufactured trusses
would probably be more cost effective than the large dimesional joists.
Plus, the truss company will do the engineering for you. Only thing you'd
have to stick would be the hip/gable overbuild ( if I interpreted your
description correctly)
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap