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Posted by on September 29, 2008, 12:52 pm
Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
Thanks,
Rob
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Posted by dpb on September 29, 2008, 4:06 pm
41roblynway@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
Well, 2x4's ain't gonna' cut it... :)
If you can possibly arrange it, I'd strongly suggest going the
two-single doors as opposed to the one double. Only if you're in a
location which _never_ has inclement weather would I relent. And, I'd
still plan on an entrance door besides.
Is this the end wall which isn't load bearing, I presume, as starters?
If so, the beam tables will be adequate for sizing but you'll definitely
need at least a 2x10 doubled w/ the half-inch ply sandwich for thickness
but that's not actually looking it up.
--
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Posted by Big_Jake on September 29, 2008, 8:18 pm
On Sep 29, 11:52=A0am, 41roblyn...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> Thanks,
> Rob
I built a 3 car garage some years ago with one 16' door and one 8'
door. The 16' door required a double 11 1/2" microlam per plan.
Might have been slightly overkill, but the inspector didn't say so.
If it is on the gable end of the garage it generally wouldn't require
a header.
JK
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Posted by Craig M on September 30, 2008, 6:59 am
When we put a overhead door in my garage that used to be a pole barn, we
added side walls, built a box beam and they came out and installed the door,
the barn was built with roof trusses, and end wall not really load bearing,
we did add about 3 2x4's where the door opener track bolted up to the wall,
to give it something to bolt too, had to add blocking for the track mounts,
but the whole door assembly is not that heavy for a single wall door, now if
you go solid wood, that changes.
Ask the door installer as well.
On Sep 29, 11:52 am, 41roblyn...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> Thanks,
> Rob
I built a 3 car garage some years ago with one 16' door and one 8'
door. The 16' door required a double 11 1/2" microlam per plan.
Might have been slightly overkill, but the inspector didn't say so.
If it is on the gable end of the garage it generally wouldn't require
a header.
JK
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Posted by Dioclese on September 30, 2008, 8:07 am
> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> Thanks,
> Rob
You'll need 2 yellow pine 2X12s #2 or better, and one full sheet of 1/2" CDX
plywood. Cut a 8' length of plywood 11" wide. Along that same edge you cut
the prior piece of plywood, cut another. Cut the 2nd piece of plywood 4',
or in half. Cut both 2X12s to length.
Lay one 2X12 on a flat surface. Find the center lengthwise. Using
carpenters glue (you'll need lots of it), cover an area 4' either way from
the center. Do not spread the glue in any manner. Carefully place the 8'
section of plywood lengthwise over the glue. Stabilize with a handful of
3/4" brass wood screws. Do the same on either end of the 2X12 with the
remaining 2 four foot sections of plywood. Verify the crown on both 2X12s.
Place the 2X12 with the plywood attached on 4 saw horses spread apart in an
equal fashion where the 2X12 ends are about 2' past the end saw horses.
Liberally apply carpenters glue to the plywood surface. Place the other
2X12 over the plywood assuring the crown is up like the bottom 2X12. Attach
with 3.5" stainless steel wood screws. Do not countersink, flush only. Use
4 screws every 2 feet, 3 screws every 1 foot between the sets of 4 screws.
You'll need a person on the loose end of the 2X12 to work it back and forth.
As you progress to the other end, you will need pipe clamps to work it back
and forth. Get the bottom flush, not the top, if they are slightly
different in size. Allow the glue to dry 24 hours before using the header.
2X12 selection considerations are not to select any with visible twisting or
warping. Do not select a perfectly straight example, you want one with some
crown. The crown is the spring that gives as weight is placed on it. Nor
do you want one with excessive crown.
Just a few comments. 7 feet is awfully tight, even for a compact car's
length. Don't see how you're going to get any wall lateral stability on the
side where the garage door is going. The whole wall is the garage door
frame and door.
--
Dave
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> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.