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Posted by bertbarndoor on September 30, 2008, 12:58 pm
Sorry, I was typing too fast. The garage door opening will be 7x16,
not the entire garage itself. The garage is probably about 25+ feet
wide, 9 feet high above the door (higher at the peak), and probably
about 20+ feet deep. The door is going on the non-gable side. I
presume the non-gable side is the fully rectangular side, not the side
that has has a triangle which supports the roof.
Does that change any of your instructions? thanks!
-Rob
> Just a few comments. =A07 feet is awfully tight, even for a compact car's
> length. =A0Don't see how you're going to get any wall lateral stability o=
n the
> side where the garage door is going. =A0The whole wall is the garage door
> frame and door.
> --
> Dave
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Posted by Dioclese on October 2, 2008, 3:22 am
Appears you have common gable roof. Seems good to go based on the fact that
it was simply a workshop to begin with. Admittedly, as another respondent
pointed out, I don't know what the roof load is. But, you said workshop.
That's a pretty light load to me.
You can use common ferrous nails externally, and for attaching the plywood.
I prefer screws to nails on critical structural areas as these cause less
local wood compression to the holding structure, less likely to split.
Yellow pine has less tolerance, and tends to split more than most softer
woods. If you're used to working with fir or white pine for instance,
you'll find yellow pine much denser. Non-ferrous? I simply like stuff to
last the lifetime of the structure.
Don't forget that you will have to temporarily support the ceiling and roof
when removing the wall and installing the header. You will not get 7 foot
clearance if you have standard 92 5/8" studs. 2X12 is 11 1/8" wide. Add 1
1/2" for the sole plate. That works out to 83" from the bottom of the
header to the floor. Hopefully, that will be adequate. Don't forget the
header will need to ride on a cripple stud on both ends, needs to be 3"
longer than the opening. Inside the framed opening, you'll need treated
lumber negating 3" more from the lateral opening, and 1.5" from the top.
That's the finished opening size for the garage door. Check the specs
required for finished opening size for the garage door. Do not accept any
oral information from the vendor/salesman, you need to see specs in writing.
Armed with that information, you can determine exactly the framed size,
thus, the header length and maximum width.
--
Dave
Sorry, I was typing too fast. The garage door opening will be 7x16,
not the entire garage itself. The garage is probably about 25+ feet
wide, 9 feet high above the door (higher at the peak), and probably
about 20+ feet deep. The door is going on the non-gable side. I
presume the non-gable side is the fully rectangular side, not the side
that has has a triangle which supports the roof.
Does that change any of your instructions? thanks!
-Rob
> Just a few comments. 7 feet is awfully tight, even for a compact car's
> length. Don't see how you're going to get any wall lateral stability on
> the
> side where the garage door is going. The whole wall is the garage door
> frame and door.
> --
> Dave
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on October 2, 2008, 2:32 pm
On 2008-10-02, Dioclese <NONE> wrote:
> Appears you have common gable roof. Seems good to go based on the fact that
> it was simply a workshop to begin with. Admittedly, as another respondent
> pointed out, I don't know what the roof load is. But, you said workshop.
> That's a pretty light load to me.
Well, we can't really know that. What's the snow load? What's the
wind load? What's the earthquake load?
> You can use common ferrous nails externally, and for attaching the plywood.
> I prefer screws to nails on critical structural areas as these cause less
> local wood compression to the holding structure, less likely to split.
In earthquake country, nails are preferred as they are more ductile than screws.
Cheers, Wayne
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Posted by Matt Whiting on September 30, 2008, 5:31 pm
Dioclese wrote:
>> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
>> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
>> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
>> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
>> Thanks,
>> Rob
>
> You'll need 2 yellow pine 2X12s #2 or better, and one full sheet of 1/2" CDX
> plywood. Cut a 8' length of plywood 11" wide. Along that same edge you cut
> the prior piece of plywood, cut another. Cut the 2nd piece of plywood 4',
> or in half. Cut both 2X12s to length.
How do you know this given that you know nothing about the load this
beam needs to support? Giving engineering advice over the internet is
very dangerous. The only thing more dangerous is taking advice over the
internet.
Matt
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Posted by DanG on October 1, 2008, 12:36 am
It isn't rocket science to provide an adequate header over a
garage door. It is a standard opening. I thought Dioclese gave
some pretty good advice. Most double 2x12 headers belly out
within 10 years with no load on them, just not adequate for the
span, drive up and down a subdivision and pay attention to double
car garage door headers. A flitch beam, LVL or other manufactured
beam, some form of box beam, or a reinforced 2x12 beam will be
required. The name of this group is construction after all.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
> Dioclese wrote:
>>> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the
>>> header for
>>> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an
>>> existing
>>> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s?
>>> Single
>>> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet,
>>> aluminum.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Rob
>> You'll need 2 yellow pine 2X12s #2 or better, and one full
>> sheet of 1/2" CDX plywood. Cut a 8' length of plywood 11"
>> wide. Along that same edge you cut the prior piece of plywood,
>> cut another. Cut the 2nd piece of plywood 4', or in half. Cut
>> both 2X12s to length.
> How do you know this given that you know nothing about the load
> this beam needs to support? Giving engineering advice over the
> internet is very dangerous. The only thing more dangerous is
> taking advice over the internet.
> Matt
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> length. =A0Don't see how you're going to get any wall lateral stability o=