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Posted by Big_Jake on September 30, 2008, 6:07 pm
On Sep 30, 7:07=A0am, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> > Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> > my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> > detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> > story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> > Thanks,
> > Rob
> You'll need 2 yellow pine 2X12s #2 or better, and one full sheet of 1/2" =
CDX
> plywood. =A0Cut a 8' length of plywood 11" wide. =A0Along that same edge =
you cut
> the prior piece of plywood, cut another. =A0Cut the 2nd piece of plywood =
4',
> or in half. =A0Cut both 2X12s to length.
> Lay one 2X12 on a flat surface. =A0Find the center lengthwise. =A0Using
> carpenters glue (you'll need lots of it), cover an area 4' either way fro=
m
> the center. =A0Do not spread the glue in any manner. =A0Carefully place t=
he 8'
> section of plywood lengthwise over the glue. =A0Stabilize with a handful =
of
> 3/4" brass wood screws. =A0Do the same on either end of the 2X12 with the
> remaining 2 four foot sections of plywood. =A0Verify the crown on both 2X=
12s.
> Place the 2X12 with the plywood attached on 4 saw horses spread apart in =
an
> equal fashion where the 2X12 ends are about 2' past the end saw horses.
> Liberally apply carpenters glue to the plywood surface. =A0Place the othe=
r
> 2X12 over the plywood assuring the crown is up like the bottom 2X12. =A0A=
ttach
> with 3.5" stainless steel wood screws. =A0Do not countersink, flush only.=
=A0Use
> 4 screws every 2 feet, 3 screws every 1 foot between the sets of 4 screws=
.
> You'll need a person on the loose end of the 2X12 to work it back and for=
th.
> As you progress to the other end, you will need pipe clamps to work it ba=
ck
> and forth. =A0Get the bottom flush, not the top, if they are slightly
> different in size. =A0Allow the glue to dry 24 hours before using the hea=
der.
> 2X12 selection considerations are not to select any with visible twisting=
or
> warping. =A0Do not select a perfectly straight example, you want one with=
some
> crown. =A0The crown is the spring that gives as weight is placed on it. =
=A0Nor
> do you want one with excessive crown.
> Just a few comments. =A07 feet is awfully tight, even for a compact car's
> length. =A0Don't see how you're going to get any wall lateral stability o=
n the
> side where the garage door is going. =A0The whole wall is the garage door
> frame and door.
> --
> Dave
Brass and stainless screws?? WTF? Why not use 16d nails? I have
never seen an engineering drawing that spec'd wood screws for
something structural.
JK
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> garage door. It is a standard opening. I thought Dioclese gave
> some pretty good advice. Most double 2x12 headers belly out
> within 10 years with no load on them, just not adequate for the
> span, drive up and down a subdivision and pay attention to double
> car garage door headers. A flitch beam, LVL or other manufactured
> beam, some form of box beam, or a reinforced 2x12 beam will be
> required. The name of this group is construction after all.