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Posted by aemeijers on February 8, 2009, 10:20 am
Van Chocstraw wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> aemeijers wrote:
>> jim wrote:
>>>> James wrote:
>>>>> I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I
>>>>> have owned
>>>>> for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use, I am
>>>>> still not
>>>>> good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of
>>>>> plywood or a
>>>>> 2 x 4 !!
>>>>> Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's
>>>>> , some
>>>>> trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not really
>>>>> skilled
>>>>> at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but
>>>>> quality
>>>>> table saw. Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut
>>>>> boards
>>>>> and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. It doesn't have
>>>>> to be very
>>>>> high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an
>>>>> adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece
>>>>> you move
>>>>> left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) and I
>>>>> guess
>>>>> something that adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would
>>>>> need any
>>>>> angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.
>>>>> So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not
>>>>> exceeding $150
>>>>> ? Can I get a quality one for that price ??
>>>>> I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
>>>>> comments
>>>>> here first.
>>>>> Thanks for any advice !!
>>>>> James
>>>> I think your price range is low for a decent unit. A Ryobi *might* be
>>>> passable as some of their other products are. For my occasional table
>>>> saw needs I have a Bosch (branded) TS4000? contractors saw that has
>>>> been
>>>> very good. I recall it being closer to $400 though.- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> Not sure of the price but have always ahd good luck with Craftsmen
>> Going through a similar mental exercise (Plus some hands-on
>> experimenting, visiting my father's place where all needed tools are
>> available), and came to the following conclusions:
>> 1. The low end table saws with the tiny tables are useless for ripping
>> plywood and panels more than a couple feet on a side, unless you rig
>> all sorts of tall sawhorses, and/or have a helper available. And
>> unless you have a walkout basement, barn, or extra bay in the garage,
>> they are pain in the ass to store and set up. Surprisingly easy to
>> get them out of adjustment if they get moved around a lot.
>
> You can build a bigger table around it and build extensions.
>
(snip)
And
show/hide quoted text
>> unless you have a walkout basement, barn, or extra bay in the garage,
>> they are pain in the ass to store and set up. Surprisingly easy to
>> get them out of adjustment if they get moved around a lot.
Yes, I know all that. And if I had a good space to build all that and
leave it set up, I would. Idiot previous owner, when he added a two-car
garage and abandoned the original one-car in the basement, filled in the
wall where the old door was, and filled in front yard. If he had put in
a 3-0 steel door and left a walkway, it would make a great place for a
walkout woodshop. But the way it is now, I can't even get 4x8 plywood
down there (tight turns in kitchen and down narrow stairs, etc.) For the
few things I will ever do around here, just not worth it- wait for warm
weather, park the cars in driveway, and set up camp in the garage. With
the amount of snow around here, leaving the cars outside all winter is
not an option.
aem sends...
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Posted by Robert Neville on February 8, 2009, 12:55 pm
show/hide quoted text
>Yes, I know all that. And if I had a good space to build all that and
>leave it set up, I would.
You may wish to consider a 10 or 12" miter saw. They take up far less space and
handle most of the home cutting needs I've come across. The 12" ones will do
most framing lumber. I have this one and it works fine:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98194
If you plan to rip any wood, you'd still need a table saw. That was the only
advantage a good radial arm saw with a head that turns a full 90 degrees has...
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Posted by dpb on February 8, 2009, 1:04 pm
Robert Neville wrote:
...
show/hide quoted text
> If you plan to rip any wood, you'd still need a table saw. That was the only
> advantage a good radial arm saw with a head that turns a full 90 degrees has...
Au contraire, good buddy... :)
The RAS is also the perfect tool for cross-cutting long material that is
otherwise a pita for the tablesaw...fitted w/ a long table and rollers,
it is the cat's meow for the sizing of large stock prior to next step...
It does, of course, imply one has the resources in both money and space
to dedicate to it... :)
If I had to eliminate one or the other, it would be a hard choice at
this point. It would help in that decision if one had a specific
dedication to a type of work as, say, a cabinet shop or specialty
furniture of some variety that would favor a given size/type of
material. As a general-purpose do everything and anything as it comes
up, having the flexibility is something I'd hate to do without.
So, in the end, "different strokes..." :)
ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...
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Posted by Dioclese on February 10, 2009, 7:27 am
show/hide quoted text
> Robert Neville wrote:
> ...
>> If you plan to rip any wood, you'd still need a table saw. That was the
>> only
>> advantage a good radial arm saw with a head that turns a full 90 degrees
>> has...
> Au contraire, good buddy... :)
> The RAS is also the perfect tool for cross-cutting long material that is
> otherwise a pita for the tablesaw...fitted w/ a long table and rollers, it
> is the cat's meow for the sizing of large stock prior to next step...
> It does, of course, imply one has the resources in both money and space to
> dedicate to it... :)
> If I had to eliminate one or the other, it would be a hard choice at this
> point. It would help in that decision if one had a specific dedication to
> a type of work as, say, a cabinet shop or specialty furniture of some
> variety that would favor a given size/type of material. As a
> general-purpose do everything and anything as it comes up, having the
> flexibility is something I'd hate to do without.
> So, in the end, "different strokes..." :)
> ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...
> --
My stroke, if I have the choice available, is to use table saw for rips. I
like the better full length visibility of the lumber piece while ripping
while usng a table saw. My opinion, the lumber piece tends to more likely
"walk" vertically with a radial arm saw when ripping. Many table saws
already provide vertical stops, anti-reversal fingers, for rips. More
control of the material with a table saw for ripping purposes. The depth of
blade exposed for table saw is minimal vs full exposure for a radial arm
saw. Rather than a "stroke", seems like a more logical choice for rips.
--
Dave
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Posted by dpb on February 10, 2009, 8:58 am
Dioclese wrote:
...
show/hide quoted text
> My stroke, if I have the choice available, is to use table saw for rips. I
> like the better full length visibility of the lumber piece while ripping
> while usng a table saw. My opinion, the lumber piece tends to more likely
> "walk" vertically with a radial arm saw when ripping. Many table saws
> already provide vertical stops, anti-reversal fingers, for rips. More
> control of the material with a table saw for ripping purposes. The depth of
> blade exposed for table saw is minimal vs full exposure for a radial arm
> saw. Rather than a "stroke", seems like a more logical choice for rips.
Depends on the size of the material and the setup available.
I have the RAS in a 20-ft+ table that exceeds the size of the TS outfeed
table so for large pieces (and specifically full-size ply sheets that
was the starting point for this thread) it is much more stable and
easier to control on the RAS than the TS.
As for the blade, the guard is rotated to meet the surface of the stock
in front which completely covers it from the feed side and the movable
guards drop in the rear which protect from the inadvertent side although
there's no reason to ever be there during the cut anyway. I keep a
permanent pusher where it's convenient to hand for the finish of the cut
to pass it by the blade if the width is narrow enough to be a problem.
Again, it's more to do w/ the arrangement of the facilities than the
tool itself...
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>> jim wrote:
>>>> James wrote:
>>>>> I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I
>>>>> have owned
>>>>> for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use, I am
>>>>> still not
>>>>> good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of
>>>>> plywood or a
>>>>> 2 x 4 !!
>>>>> Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's
>>>>> , some
>>>>> trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not really
>>>>> skilled
>>>>> at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but
>>>>> quality
>>>>> table saw. Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut
>>>>> boards
>>>>> and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. It doesn't have
>>>>> to be very
>>>>> high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an
>>>>> adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece
>>>>> you move
>>>>> left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) and I
>>>>> guess
>>>>> something that adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would
>>>>> need any
>>>>> angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.
>>>>> So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not
>>>>> exceeding $150
>>>>> ? Can I get a quality one for that price ??
>>>>> I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
>>>>> comments
>>>>> here first.
>>>>> Thanks for any advice !!
>>>>> James
>>>> I think your price range is low for a decent unit. A Ryobi *might* be
>>>> passable as some of their other products are. For my occasional table
>>>> saw needs I have a Bosch (branded) TS4000? contractors saw that has
>>>> been
>>>> very good. I recall it being closer to $400 though.- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> Not sure of the price but have always ahd good luck with Craftsmen
>> Going through a similar mental exercise (Plus some hands-on
>> experimenting, visiting my father's place where all needed tools are
>> available), and came to the following conclusions:
>> 1. The low end table saws with the tiny tables are useless for ripping
>> plywood and panels more than a couple feet on a side, unless you rig
>> all sorts of tall sawhorses, and/or have a helper available. And
>> unless you have a walkout basement, barn, or extra bay in the garage,
>> they are pain in the ass to store and set up. Surprisingly easy to
>> get them out of adjustment if they get moved around a lot.
>
> You can build a bigger table around it and build extensions.
>