Good Choice of Table Saw for very casual home use ??

Posted by PeterD on February 10, 2009, 9:27 am

wrote:

>First, depending on where you are..see if there is a WWW.CRAIGSLIST.ORG
>website nearby and get the saw through "TOOLS" on the site for perhaps HALF
>of what you'll pay for a new one at Sears or HD.

Do be careful not to buy something that has been abused to the point
it is ready to fail. Specifically smell around the motor for burned
smells (showing it had a major overload long enough to overheat the
motor) and for other wear.

>...

>Second, BEWARE when comparing various saws motor HP that Sears commonly uses
>'max" HP "DEVELOPED" which is the power draw/created JUST BEFORE the motor
>is driven to fail...Divide the HP number they use in half to get a
>realistic number. Ie. their "develops 1HP" motor is really a 1/2 hp
>motor.

Easiest is the specification plate that *should* be found on each
unit. Figure *roughly* that 10 amps is about 1 HP for an electric
motor. (the number is less, but inefficiency in the motor and system
drive it higher). So ignore a '2.3 HP rated' sticker, and look at the
power drawn on the nameplate for a good indication of how powerful it
is.

That said, power is not critical unless you need speed. You can cut a
lot of wood with a less powerful saw, it just takes (much) longer!

>Finally, a lot depends on the quality of the blade.

Absolutely! A good high quality blade is really important. I've used
saws with bad blades (and bought at least one for virtually nothing
because the blade so was dull that it would not cut, and the seller
didn't realize it was just a bad blade, and not the saw).

>Get a good name brand
>(not Harbor Freight Tools etc) carbide tip blade, up to 40 tooth for
>'general' work and make sure you don't cut any staples, screws or nails in
>the lumber.
>Good luck
>R

Posted by Dioclese on February 10, 2009, 7:07 am

>I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I have
>owned
> for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use, I am still not
> good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of plywood or
> a
> 2 x 4 !!
> Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's , some
> trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not really skilled
> at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
> table saw. Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut boards
> and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. It doesn't have to be
> very
> high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an
> adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece you move
> left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) and I guess
> something that adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would need any
> angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.
> So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not exceeding
> $150
> ? Can I get a quality one for that price ??
> I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
> comments
> here first.
> Thanks for any advice !!
> James

"SKIL" with one "L" is a brand name. Commonly seen at construction sites
with other brands as well like Porter-Cable. Hand-held electric circular
saw is probably what you mean, and, may even be made by SKIL. Unless you're
doing something that requires good fit and appearance of cuts, such a saw is
just fine. It all boils down to good measurements, following the measured
lines made without cutting that line. Not forcing the cut too quickly. A
very lightweight saw may try to move left and right indiscriminantly. A
dull blade takes longer and may scorch the wood. Using the right blade also
helps such as when to use a cross-cut blade, a combination blade, and a
ripping blade.

As another poster stated, the most important part of a table saw is the
table. Actually, I'm speaking of a compound miter saw. A table saw is very
limited in lengthy cross-cuts, excellent for plywood and rips. It must
accomodate size of lumber, and must be rock solid when using the saw.
There are some reversals needed in some cuts, like a hip rafter, that some
compound miter saws can't accomodate on both sides of the cut. The bevel
only swings one way. Can be done, but not very intuitive. A 10" compound
miter saw with laser sounds adequate for most of what you're speaking of.
Get one with the laser that runs off the AC, not replaceable batteries. A
genuine table saw is best for ripping plywood and other lumber.
--
Dave

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Good Choice of Table Saw for very casual home use ?? - Page 11