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Good Choice of Table Saw for very casual home use ?? James 02-07-2009
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Posted by Dioclese on February 11, 2009, 12:18 am
> Dioclese wrote:
> ...
>> My stroke, if I have the choice available, is to use table saw for rips.
>> I like the better full length visibility of the lumber piece while
>> ripping while usng a table saw. My opinion, the lumber piece tends to
>> more likely "walk" vertically with a radial arm saw when ripping. Many
>> table saws already provide vertical stops, anti-reversal fingers, for
>> rips. More control of the material with a table saw for ripping
>> purposes. The depth of blade exposed for table saw is minimal vs full
>> exposure for a radial arm saw. Rather than a "stroke", seems like a more
>> logical choice for rips.
> Depends on the size of the material and the setup available.
> I have the RAS in a 20-ft+ table that exceeds the size of the TS outfeed
> table so for large pieces (and specifically full-size ply sheets that was
> the starting point for this thread) it is much more stable and easier to
> control on the RAS than the TS.
> As for the blade, the guard is rotated to meet the surface of the stock in
> front which completely covers it from the feed side and the movable guards
> drop in the rear which protect from the inadvertent side although there's
> no reason to ever be there during the cut anyway. I keep a permanent
> pusher where it's convenient to hand for the finish of the cut to pass it
> by the blade if the width is narrow enough to be a problem.
> Again, it's more to do w/ the arrangement of the facilities than the tool
> itself...
> --

If I were wondering like the original poster, at this point, you reverse
sold me. There is no "depends on the setup" for rips for common plywood.
There is no limitation on table length in RAS vs table saw. The guard on a
RAS, like a hand-held circular saw meets the lumber after its been sawn, not
before. Most remove that guard for obvious reasons regarding a rip cut.
--
Dave



Posted by dpb on February 11, 2009, 1:00 am
Dioclese wrote:
...
> If I were wondering like the original poster, at this point, you reverse
> sold me. There is no "depends on the setup" for rips for common plywood.
> There is no limitation on table length in RAS vs table saw. The guard on a
> RAS, like a hand-held circular saw meets the lumber after its been sawn, not
> before. Most remove that guard for obvious reasons regarding a rip cut.

This subthread has absolutely nothing really to do w/ the original
thread. I told the OP to go w/ the circular saw and a straight edge
for the initial cut-to-size and then a small TS _might_ be of some use.

The limitation is the setup for any individual shop. I have 20+ ft for
the RAS, but _by_choice_ not nearly as long an outfeed table on the TS.
Hence, the setup is much better.

As for the guard, you're simply wrong. The guard on the RAS for ripping
is rotated down until it touches the fed material on the infeed side--it
is a complete blockage against getting into the blade from the feed
direction as it functions to hold the material down as well as the blade
guard. Meanwhile, in the rear, the movable portions of the guard on
either side drop down and also ride on the material. This is not the
same orientation as in crosscutting.

You can protest or disagree or whatever else you care to do; I'm done.

--

Posted by AndyS on February 8, 2009, 12:40 pm


aemeijers wrote:
> jim wrote:
> >> James wrote:
> >>> I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I have
owned
> >>> for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use, I am still not
> >>> good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of plywood or a
> >>> 2 x 4 !!
> >>> Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's , some
> >>> trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not really skilled
> >>> at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
> >>> table saw. Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut boards
> >>> and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. It doesn't have to be
very
> >>> high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an
> >>> adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece you move
> >>> left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) and I guess
> >>> something that adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would need any
> >>> angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.
> >>> So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not exceeding $150
> >>> ? Can I get a quality one for that price ??
> >>> I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
comments
> >>> here first.
> >>> Thanks for any advice !!
> >>> James
> >> I think your price range is low for a decent unit. A Ryobi *might* be
> >> passable as some of their other products are. For my occasional table
> >> saw needs I have a Bosch (branded) TS4000? contractors saw that has been
> >> very good. I recall it being closer to $400 though.- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -
> > Not sure of the price but have always ahd good luck with Craftsmen
> Going through a similar mental exercise (Plus some hands-on
> experimenting, visiting my father's place where all needed tools are
> available), and came to the following conclusions:
> 1. The low end table saws with the tiny tables are useless for ripping
> plywood and panels more than a couple feet on a side, unless you rig all
> sorts of tall sawhorses, and/or have a helper available. And unless you
> have a walkout basement, barn, or extra bay in the garage, they are pain
> in the ass to store and set up. Surprisingly easy to get them out of
> adjustment if they get moved around a lot.
> 2. A cheap power miter saw beats the heck out of a table saw for trim
> miters and cutting 2x4s square for framing projects. (I can't freehand
> square cuts any more either.) And they are easy to move around,
> especially if you spring for a fold-up stand.
> 3. For once-in-a-blue-moon panel ripping, several solid sawhorses, and 4
> carefully placed 2x4s, plus a metal rip guide (a long straight piece of
> metal channel) and some clamps, will let you rip panels with a skilsaw
> about as well as a tiny table saw will. Just slide the saw up the rip
> guide, and the cut is straight. I wouldn't use something like that for
> production work, because it takes too long to set up each cut, but if
> you are only cutting a few boards a year, it works. Once you learn the
> right offset for your skilsaw/blade combination, setting the fence to
> the right offset on the raw material doesn't take long. One strong clamp
> at each end, and a stiff enough fence, and the cut is straight enough
> for anything short of fine cabinetry. Laying out the loose 2x4s properly
> under the work piece keeps the cut from binding up, or the wood from
> splintering at the end. (and keeps you from cutting into the sawhorses.)
> Anyway, once weather warms up, and I get off my ass and actually start
> on my long-postponed projects here, that is the approach I plan to take.
> Already have the miter saw, and a half-ass skilsaw (which may need
> replacing, since bearings are a tad sloppy.) So all I need is some
> better sawhorses, and some2x4s and a piece of metal channel. I think I
> have enough clamps laying around....
> --

Andy writes:

The above is the best advice I have read on the subject.....

If you buy more than you need, you waste money.....

... AND you can use a couple 2 X 4s and a sheet of OSB to accommodate
damn near anything you need to rip, tear, or cut off....

A portable, inexpensive, SKILL saw is all you seem to need for
your widely spaced applications.... and a little effort to figure
out
how to use it for your task....

ON THE OTHER HAND, I picked up a radial arm saw at a garage
sale 15 years ago for about $130..... I love it.... I DON'T need
it....
... but it is damn handy....... and I ain't givin' it back !!!!!

Sometimes you buy more than you need just because
you WANT IT !!!!

Andy in Eureka, Texas

Posted by HeyBub on February 8, 2009, 1:35 pm
AndyS wrote:
> ON THE OTHER HAND, I picked up a radial arm saw at a garage
> sale 15 years ago for about $130..... I love it.... I DON'T need
> it....
> ... but it is damn handy....... and I ain't givin' it back !!!!!
> Sometimes you buy more than you need just because
> you WANT IT !!!!
> Andy in Eureka, Texas

The same argument applies to guns. I often hear or read the comment "No one
needs 259 guns..." I try to respond: "NEED is not the operative word - WANT
is all that should count."

I recall talking to a customer in Massachusetts who was appalled that
someone in her town was discovered with over 2,000 guns stored in his house!
The newspaper article said his newest gun was manufactured in the 1880s.

"Oh, a collector," said I.
"Yeah, but nobody, not even a collector, needs 2,000 guns!" responded my
customer.
"I agree. A stamp collector should be content with one large stamp, one
small stamp, a red stamp, and a blue stamp."
"IT'S NOT THE SAME THING!" she almost screamed.
"Carol," I said, "it's exactly the same thing."

But, of course, this was Massachusetts.



Posted by Michael Dobony on February 15, 2009, 9:16 am
On Sun, 8 Feb 2009 12:35:13 -0600, HeyBub wrote:

> AndyS wrote:
>> ON THE OTHER HAND, I picked up a radial arm saw at a garage
>> sale 15 years ago for about $130..... I love it.... I DON'T need
>> it....
>> ... but it is damn handy....... and I ain't givin' it back !!!!!
>> Sometimes you buy more than you need just because
>> you WANT IT !!!!
>> Andy in Eureka, Texas
>
> The same argument applies to guns. I often hear or read the comment "No one
> needs 259 guns..." I try to respond: "NEED is not the operative word - WANT
> is all that should count."
>
> I recall talking to a customer in Massachusetts who was appalled that
> someone in her town was discovered with over 2,000 guns stored in his house!
> The newspaper article said his newest gun was manufactured in the 1880s.
>
> "Oh, a collector," said I.
> "Yeah, but nobody, not even a collector, needs 2,000 guns!" responded my
> customer.
> "I agree. A stamp collector should be content with one large stamp, one
> small stamp, a red stamp, and a blue stamp."
> "IT'S NOT THE SAME THING!" she almost screamed.
> "Carol," I said, "it's exactly the same thing."
>
> But, of course, this was Massachusetts.

And home of Ted Kennedy, a murderer in congress, who takes his phone off
the hook so people can't call in to complain about his stupidity and still
gets reelected.

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