Hanging a sign

Posted by rustyjames on July 31, 2007, 4:37 pm

I think polurethane adhesive and some Tapcons would probably do the
job.

Posted by Stormin Mormon on July 31, 2007, 10:03 pm

Next year when the boss wants the sign changed, you're gonna be
in a world of hurt.

Use some kind of screws and anchors.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

: The boss wants a sign hung above the front door.
:
: He had a sign made at a sign shop -- 3 ft. x 6 ft. -- made from
3/8 inch
: poly-something pliable plastic with vinyl (I think) lettering.
In any case,
: it's guaranteed for outdoor duty.
:
: My question is regarding mounting. The simplest technique would
be to simply
: locate and level the sign and put Liquid Nails on the wall
(tilt-up concrete
: building with stucco texture) and slap on the sign and secure
it while the LN
: sets.
:
: Any suggestions, observations, constructive criticism?
:
: Thanks,
: Sparky
:

Posted by on August 1, 2007, 4:52 am

stucco is a drag to drive anchors into
they wont hold that great

instead of doing it wrong
maybe you should ask the sign person
I am sure they have had enough call backs
to know exactly what to use the first time.

> The boss wants a sign hung above the front door.
> He had a sign made at a sign shop -- 3 ft. x 6 ft. -- made from 3/8 inch
> poly-something pliable plastic with vinyl (I think) lettering. In any
> case,
> it's guaranteed for outdoor duty.
> My question is regarding mounting. The simplest technique would be to
> simply
> locate and level the sign and put Liquid Nails on the wall (tilt-up
> concrete
> building with stucco texture) and slap on the sign and secure it while the
> LN
> sets.
> Any suggestions, observations, constructive criticism?
> Thanks,
> Sparky
>

Posted by GreenGA on August 1, 2007, 11:24 am

> The boss wants a sign hung above the front door.
> He had a sign made at a sign shop -- 3 ft. x 6 ft. -- made from 3/8 inch
> poly-something pliable plastic with vinyl (I think) lettering. In any case,
> it's guaranteed for outdoor duty.
> My question is regarding mounting. The simplest technique would be to simply
> locate and level the sign and put Liquid Nails on the wall (tilt-up concrete
> building with stucco texture) and slap on the sign and secure it while the LN
> sets.
> Any suggestions, observations, constructive criticism?
> Thanks,
> Sparky

When we owned a sign shop we would mount the signs, if the customer
paid us to mount the sign, in one of a number of ways; based on what
the customer wanted and was willing to pay for.

First thing up is we would use 6 screws to mount this size sign (never
use a 2x4 when a 2x6 does just as well). The screws would be mounted,
top, bottom and side, 4-5 inches in from the edges. So in your case
there would be three along the top and three along the bottom.

We would use, again depending on costs, some form of stand-off,
usually about an inch or so, depending on the mounting surface. The
rougher the surface, the longer the stand-off; initiallly. You can
use washers but we would use a solid plastic rod material. We would
cut the rod down to the size we needed and then drill a hole through
the center of each stand-off. The sign would be attached to the wall
through the stand-offs.

To attach everything to the wall, we would use 2"-3" Tapcons.

If we screwed through the face of the sign, we would use small
circular pieces of the same material used to form the letters of the
sign and then apply these circular pieces over the screw heads; to
hide them and make it "look like" the circles/dots we designed in.

Other additional cost items, which did improve the look of the sign...

We would screw the stand-offs to the wall first (after making the
proper measurements and leveling things, of course). Then we would
apply a piece of double-sided tape to the back of the sign in each
upper corner to form an "L-bracket". To this tape we would stick
some soft and light wood, like balsa wood. This wood would then allow
us to "hang" the sign on the stand-offs while we made any minor
adjustments (hopefully NOT). Then remove the sign, apply some quick-
setting epoxy to the face/front/top of the stand-offs and then re
"hang" the sign pressing it into the epoxy while the epoxy setup.
After a few minutes or so, the epoxy cured enough that we could stop
pressing the sign and then remove the wood and tape from the back of
the sign.

Another extra cost item was we would pre-paint the stand-offs to match
the color of the wall the sign was mounted to. This allowed the stand-
offs to disappear and aloow the sign to appear as though it were
"floating" of the surface of the wall.

As for how much to stand-off the sign from the wall... In our
situations, we did not need to worry about "code". If the sign was
legal where it was to be mounted, we just made sure there was enough
room that anything that got behind the sign would not get caught, yet
close enough to discourage birds from nesting and to allow the sign to
"look good".

HTH

Posted by SparkyGuy on August 1, 2007, 12:36 pm

> As for how much to stand-off the sign from the wall... In our
> situations, we did not need to worry about "code". If the sign was
> legal where it was to be mounted, we just made sure there was enough
> room that anything that got behind the sign would not get caught, yet
> close enough to discourage birds from nesting and to allow the sign to
> "look good".

Thanks, GGA. Lots of good ideas here.

In your experience, do your customers typically pull a building permit for
such a sign? (Note that I'm not asking if they *should* pull a permit...)

Thanks,
Sparky

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Hanging a sign - Page 4