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Posted by Mike Hammer on May 3, 2007, 10:27 am
says...
>
>> says...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >> says...
>>
>> >> >On May 2, 1:19 am, "CWatters"
>> >> >> Sketch here...
>>
>> >> >>http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5198/sisterjoistmr0.jpg
>>
>> >> >Thanks much! However the subfloor is already in place and removing
>> >> >it would be a major headache, besides the project delay. Whatever I
>> >> >do must be over the existing subfloor.
>>
>> >> >I can try to replicate "dummy joists" over the existing subfloor and
>> >> >nail/glue a laminated wood new "subfloor" over them. That will take
>> >> >a lot of work but is likely faster than removing the old one.
>>
>> >> >Gluing the hardwood planks over self leveling cement seems to be the
>> >> >easiest/fastest route but I do not know if it can be done without
>> >> >risking damaging the hardwood planks or making the floor squeaky.
>>
>>>> It would be a much greater project delay if you have to rip up all of the
new
>>>>hardwood flooring because it failed. The only solution that has been offered
>>to
>> >> you that is fail safe is using sister joists.
>>
>> >Of course you realize that to sister joists, he would have to remove
>> >all the partitions, all the subfloor, sister joists, redeck, reframe
>> >partitions, drywall etc or he risks floor failure (which would be
>> >what--a few squeaks?) . This is not a realistic approach to fixing a
>> >1/2" dip in a floor.
>>
>> He would only have to remove that part of the subfloor that is sunken.
>>
>>Do you know for a fact that he can glue 5/8" thick hardwood flooring to
leveling
>> cement? That's what he is proposing. Hardwood flooring moves a helluva lot.
>
>Another problem with sistering joists is that there could well be
>wires crossing the joists, it being a second floor and all. Have to
>move the wire or notch the new joist somehow. Also, there could be
>bridging and blocking you'd have to remove--yet more work. Also, the
>OP is talking about eliminating the sag near doors. So you are
>suggesting he rip the subfloor around partitions, under doors, and
>somehow sister new joists in these areas?
Yes. The sister joists have no need to be load bearing joists. They would be
put there for the sole purpose of raising the floor back to level. They can be
2"X4"s and can even be cut in sections to fit around wires, etc. Seems like a
10 to 20 hour job to me. If were my house and I felt that the floor had to be
level (which I wouldn't) that is the way I would go. That way there would be no
future concerns of loosened flooring or buckling.
>You can glue hardwood to concrete. I've seen it on directions for
>3/4" strip hardwood flooring. I haven't done it, so I'm not going to
>suggest it, and the OP seemed resistant to the idea anyway. If it was
>mine(and I underwent a personality change so I couldn't stand leaving
>it a sag in a floor in a 100 year old house) I'd cut some shims to
>flatten, screed in some webcrete floor leveler between the shims, and
>staple the floor through the shims. Most places it'd probably work to
>staple right through the leveling compound anyway.
Sounds reasonable to me.
>Also regarding "self leveling compound", I don't know of a floor
>leveler that is actually self leveling. That is, you can't stand in
>the middle of a room and dump it from a bucket and VOILA it's level.
>you need to get down on your hands and knees and work it. In your
>case, you'd probably want a long straight edge to sort of screed it.
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