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Subject Author Date
Help needed Sandra S Beall 08-10-2006
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Posted by Sandra S Beall on August 10, 2006, 7:42 pm
I checked ... it is 1/4" cedar plywood... good quality, better than we get
today. The house is approx . 50 years old. I have been told that these
houses are well made compared to today's building. I noticed that it also
has black felt paper between rafters and plywood.

It looks like they wrapped everything...

Sandra Beall



Posted by Glenn on August 11, 2006, 12:58 pm
50 years ago, I had been a full time carpenter for 7 years. I
know the construction of yesterday and yes, it was better than now
days. We were craftsman back then. Now they stand something up
and where it stops moving, they nail it there. (Probably the one
guy on the crew that speaks English knows what a level is.)

As for the plywood, being cedar, teak or whatever, it could be
delaminating some from moisture even if it isn't apparent. Glues
were not as good back then which sounds contradictory to the first
paragraph but isn't.

>I checked ... it is 1/4" cedar plywood... good quality,
> better than we get today. The house is approx . 50 years
> old. I have been told that these houses are well made
> compared to today's building. I noticed that it also has
> black felt paper between rafters and plywood.
> It looks like they wrapped everything...
>
> Sandra Beall


Posted by Al Bundy on August 13, 2006, 12:23 am
kc.rr.com:

> 50 years ago, I had been a full time carpenter for 7 years. I
> know the construction of yesterday and yes, it was better than now
> days. We were craftsman back then. Now they stand something up
> and where it stops moving, they nail it there. (Probably the one
> guy on the crew that speaks English knows what a level is.)
>
> As for the plywood, being cedar, teak or whatever, it could be
> delaminating some from moisture even if it isn't apparent. Glues
> were not as good back then which sounds contradictory to the first
> paragraph but isn't.
>
>>I checked ... it is 1/4" cedar plywood... good quality,
>> better than we get today. The house is approx . 50 years
>> old. I have been told that these houses are well made
>> compared to today's building. I noticed that it also has
>> black felt paper between rafters and plywood.
>> It looks like they wrapped everything...
>>
>> Sandra Beall
>


Hmmm, between it being cedar, only 1/4" and your delaminating comment, it
sounds like skimcoating is not a good idea.

Posted by Al Bundy on August 11, 2006, 12:16 am

> Can anyone here help??
>
> I need a link or information that will guide me in installing
> sheetrock on the ceiling of a room I have enclosed. The problem is
> that there is already plywood on the ceiling and I don't plan on
> removing it. This was a carport that I have enclosed. Anyway, I
> understand about placement of sheetrock, but since the plywood is
> currently installed in the way that the sheetrock is supposed to be
> installed, do I follow the plywood, or do I put in the sheetrock in
> what I would call is perpendicular to the way the ceiling members run?
>
> The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that there is blown
> in insulation in the attic which includes the part over the carport
> (now a new room)
>
>
> Thanks so much
>


Ran into your situation enclosed carport and all. Was gonna put sheetrock
over it. Then figured what the heck, try it.

If nailed, go over with screws.
Ran belt sander over the plywood to smooth...50 or 80 grit.
Skimcoated ceiling with mud.
Ran a circ saw blade at all seams to give 1/8" expansion room.
Smoothed out mud and seam cuts by sanding.
Taped and mudded seams.
Smoothed out seams
Do a 2nd+ coat (whatever it takes) seam taper just like drywall.
Prime and painted with ceiling paint.

Looked like a regular ceiling to me! Sold house 6mos later so I don't
know any long term results.

A lot of the above steps you have to do with drywall anyway but at least
you don't have to buy & hang drywall...on a ceiling yet.


Posted by Alan on August 11, 2006, 12:37 am
The only problem with mud and wood is that they often don't adhere to
each other and flakes of mud will drop off, or at minimum cracks can
appear. I'm not saying that what will happen in your case, but in my
experience this has happened. I recommend determining what thickness
the plywood is, and if it's 3/8" or better, it may hold screws pretty
well. Just make sure that you don't screw into pipes or electrical in
the process. As mentioned lapping over the seams is a good idea, as
the sheetrock can provided structural improvement too. In fact,
keeping the plywood in place and sheetrocking over it will provide
better structural strength, insulation, less moisture problems on the
inside of the sheetrock, and better safety from fire.

Al Bundy wrote:
>
> > Can anyone here help??
> >
> > I need a link or information that will guide me in installing
> > sheetrock on the ceiling of a room I have enclosed. The problem is
> > that there is already plywood on the ceiling and I don't plan on
> > removing it. This was a carport that I have enclosed. Anyway, I
> > understand about placement of sheetrock, but since the plywood is
> > currently installed in the way that the sheetrock is supposed to be
> > installed, do I follow the plywood, or do I put in the sheetrock in
> > what I would call is perpendicular to the way the ceiling members run?
> >
> > The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that there is blown
> > in insulation in the attic which includes the part over the carport
> > (now a new room)
> >
> >
> > Thanks so much
> >
>
>
> Ran into your situation enclosed carport and all. Was gonna put sheetrock
> over it. Then figured what the heck, try it.
>
> If nailed, go over with screws.
> Ran belt sander over the plywood to smooth...50 or 80 grit.
> Skimcoated ceiling with mud.
> Ran a circ saw blade at all seams to give 1/8" expansion room.
> Smoothed out mud and seam cuts by sanding.
> Taped and mudded seams.
> Smoothed out seams
> Do a 2nd+ coat (whatever it takes) seam taper just like drywall.
> Prime and painted with ceiling paint.
>
> Looked like a regular ceiling to me! Sold house 6mos later so I don't
> know any long term results.
>
> A lot of the above steps you have to do with drywall anyway but at least
> you don't have to buy & hang drywall...on a ceiling yet.


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