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Subject Author Date
Hot water tank return Bill 10-28-2006
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Posted by Bill on October 29, 2006, 1:20 pm
My HW tank (Propane) is on the second floor. All lines to the two baths
upstairs are under the second floor.
The kitchen, wash room, and other bath on the first floor will just have to
wait for hot water.
I thought about attaching the return from the farthest bath room on the
second floor. (Maybe 15 - 20 feet).

--
please reply to bargerw NO @ SPAM bellsouth.net and remove the NOSPAM


>I might clarify one other thing. For ease of illustration of the system
>the illisustration shows the return line returning across the floor. Not
>necessary, just attach it to the ceiling back to the heater. I do try to
>get a couple inches of fall in the return line though and of course there
>is the fall from the ceiling down to the heater at that end.
>
>> Your link is correct to a point. It uses a check valve. I have found
>> they don't work that well. The return
>> pressure isn't enough to push them open all the time. I
>> have even installed them on a short line going down hill
>> on a 45 degree so they hang looser which works better but
>> any lime or corrosion will hang them up. I have found
>> the loop works well.
>> > Bill wrote:
>> > > I heard that you can install a line from the tank
>> > > where the drain spigot is. That you remove the
>> > > spigot, and run a line to the farthest hot water
>> > > riser. It is supposed to allow the hot water to
>> > > circulate naturally. Anyone heard of this.
>> > >
>> > > Not using an electric pump would be worth the savings
>> > > to me.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > --
>> > > please reply to bargerw NO @ SPAM bellsouth.net and
>> > > remove the NOSPAM
>> >
>> > Bill-
>> >
>> > Yes, hte concept can work but I've never used it or seen
>> > an installation
>> >
>> > The concept is a thermo-siphon
>> >
>> > checkout
>> >
>> > http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tscs.htm
>> >
>> > cheers
>> > Bob
>



Posted by Bobk207 on October 29, 2006, 1:16 pm

Glenn wrote:
> Your link is correct to a point. It uses a check valve. I have
> found they don't work that well. The return pressure isn't enough
> to push them open all the time. I have even installed them on a
> short line going down hill on a 45 degree so they hang looser
> which works better but any lime or corrosion will hang them up. I
> have found the loop works well.
>
> > Bill wrote:
> > > I heard that you can install a line from the tank where
> > > the drain spigot is. That you remove the spigot, and
> > > run a line to the farthest hot water riser. It is
> > > supposed to allow the hot water to circulate naturally.
> > >
> > > Anyone heard of this.
> > >
> > > Not using an electric pump would be worth the savings
> > > to me.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > please reply to bargerw NO @ SPAM bellsouth.net and
> > > remove the NOSPAM
> >
> > Bill-
> >
> > Yes, hte concept can work but I've never used it or seen
> > an installation
> >
> > The concept is a thermo-siphon
> >
> > checkout
> >
> > http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tscs.htm
> >
> > cheers
> > Bob

Bill-

I would agree with Glenn about the check valve in a thermo-siphon;
un-necessary & more trouble than it's worth.

Glen, I've never installed a thermo-siphon or even a pumped hot water
circulator. I had a ranch style that took FOREVER to get hot but I
sold it before that project got ever to the top of the list.

Anyway, in a pumped situation I've seen check valves and always seen
the return plumbed into the drain valve.

I was toying with the idea in my installation of plumbing it into the
cold water inlet w/ a check valve so that the returned water would go
down the dip tube.

It's pretty much a moot point now becuase my current house has stacked
baths & a water heater in the central untility basement.....max run
~18ft to shower & about 25' to kitchen

any comments about drain valve vs cold water inlet for the return water
in apumped system

cheers
Bob


Posted by Bill on October 29, 2006, 12:12 pm
Thanks to Glenn n BobK.
That's what I was looking for.

--
please reply to bargerw NO @ SPAM bellsouth.net and remove the NOSPAM


>I heard that you can install a line from the tank where the drain spigot
>is.
> That you remove the spigot, and run a line to the farthest hot water
> riser.
> It is supposed to allow the hot water to circulate naturally.
>
> Anyone heard of this.
>
> Not using an electric pump would be worth the savings to me.
>
>
> --
> please reply to bargerw NO @ SPAM bellsouth.net and remove the NOSPAM
>
>
>



Posted by CWatters on October 30, 2006, 2:09 pm

> I heard that you can install a line from the tank where the drain spigot
is.
> That you remove the spigot, and run a line to the farthest hot water
riser.
> It is supposed to allow the hot water to circulate naturally.
>
> Anyone heard of this.
>
> Not using an electric pump would be worth the savings to me.
>

The problem is a thermal syphon works best if the return pipe isn't
insulated. (= heat losses).

You dont need to run an electric pump all the time. Use a thermostat on the
return pipe and a time clock.

An alternative is to fit a self regulating heat tape and insulate the pipes
well.




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