How many TapCons to use ?

Posted by Art on December 31, 2008, 5:41 pm

DanG wrote:

> You are installing a non load bearing partition wall. A bead of
> 400 would be totally adequate, but a few thorns will make it stay
> till set. A pin about every 4 feet will do fine. If you are
> using lumber, you may need them closer to take the warp out of the
> plate, but you don't need any more for any other reason. Make
> sure each side of a doorway is very well anchored, the only thing
> that has the potential to move.
>

Consider that someday there may be teenagers rough-housing down there.

--
Art

Posted by on January 2, 2009, 5:34 pm

> DanG wrote:

> > You are installing a non load bearing partition wall. =C2=A0A bead of

estimator1@illinicompaniesinc.com

> > 400 would be totally adequate, but a few thorns will make it stay
> > till set. =C2=A0A pin about every 4 feet will do fine. =C2=A0If you are
> > using lumber, you may need them closer to take the warp out of the
> > plate, but you don't need any more for any other reason. =C2=A0Make
> > sure each side of a doorway is very well anchored, the only thing
> > that has the potential to move.

> Consider that someday there may be teenagers rough-housing down there.
> --
> Art

jburkhart@=E2=80=8Bspringfield=E2=80=8Bclinic.com

Posted by Rudy on December 28, 2008, 5:57 pm

>>What I bought at HomeDepot was 3/16" x 2 & 3/4". That seemed to be the

standard, so I figured that is what was designed for this
application ? This will not be a weight barring wall, Just need it to
stay in place. I also plan to use a bead of PL400.<<

That'll work

Posted by sid on December 29, 2008, 8:53 pm

> >>What I bought at HomeDepot was 3/16" x 2 & 3/4". That seemed to be the

> standard, so I figured that is what was designed for this
> application ? =A0This will not be a weight barring wall, Just need it to
> stay in place. I also plan to use a bead of PL400.<<
> That'll work

When anchoring down the doorway, how close together is too close ?
I would think that drilling holes in the slab any closer than 1.5"
would be the min ? Any closer might cause a stress crack between the
holes ?

How many anchors do I need on either side of the door ?

Posted by DanG on December 30, 2008, 6:32 am

This is a bit subject to the size and holding power of the
fasteners, "the bite" of the fastener, the weight of the door,
etc. Someone (think angry wife) slamming a solid core door will
certainly jar a door casing and wall much more than a hollow core.
You can tell if the anchor got a good bite. I prefer Powers
NailIn anchors. when setting steel door jambs, two on each side.
Your issues are different, one good anchor will suffice if you
feel it grab well. Tapcons are great, but there are certainly
other commercial anchors. I prefer drilling a hole through base
plate and concrete with a masonry bit, inserting one or several
pieces of electrician's wire or tie wire and driving a nail in the
hole. You'll need a 4' crowbar to pull them out.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net

> >>What I bought at HomeDepot was 3/16" x 2 & 3/4". That seemed
> >>to be the

> standard, so I figured that is what was designed for this
> application ? This will not be a weight barring wall, Just need
> it to
> stay in place. I also plan to use a bead of PL400.<<
> That'll work

When anchoring down the doorway, how close together is too close ?
I would think that drilling holes in the slab any closer than 1.5"
would be the min ? Any closer might cause a stress crack between
the
holes ?

How many anchors do I need on either side of the door ?

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