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Posted by DanG on February 12, 2007, 11:51 pm
Is the grid square? This all needed to me worked out before you
ever started hanging grid. If the main field grid is not square,
you may as well pull it all down, get new material, and start
over. The border should be established before you hang grid, they
would absorb any out of square conditions. The grid should be 2-
3 " below the joists, square, and flat. You needed to have all
grid up, pop rivet one wall in each direction to maintain square
and straight. Install border tiles first. When there is not much
room above the grid, you will sometimes need to feed the tile from
a easy hole. Tile is slid above the grid, usually sideways, and
turned into the grid. Do not twist the grid to install tile, but
it sounds like you don't have both ends of the cross tees snapped
into the mains.
I really did not understand your questions, but it certainly
sounds as if you needed a little more information before you
started.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
valentine@okchorale.org (local)
http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)
> Is "twist all the T- 's and just push panels up and in, without
> actually moving the T- grid" done? This may sound like a dumb
> Q, but if I can and should do this I can get started without
> making a gigantic plan, accounting in order for each and every
> piece, with several different approaches. Twist in place to
> slip the panels over the lips of the L or T -tee support so it
> can rest forever. Just to open up the 3/8" or so on each end.
> I have not cut any panels yet. I planned (hopefully) unlikely
> no need for squaring or orienting of the grid, but it may end up
> screwing me in the long run if I don't know. I can see
> generally and its all pretty square perimeter and room. I just
> need to get them in now. Don't even know how big - I'd start by
> measuring a std. opening in the grid, and subtracting the size
> of a std panel, divide by 2, round down, and make any bias
> adjustments.
>
> Every one of about 70 pieces of panel has to be trimmed one way,
> the other , or both.
> 2x3@21x28", 1x3@21x45", 2x9@24x34", 3x9@24x35", 2x3@21x48".
>
> I have installed all the wall L -shaped from 10' sections, all
> main T -shaped sections from 12' or 8' sections, and all
> T -shaped from 4' sections, and now I'm ready to cut and install
> the actual panels. I have chosen Armstrong white 2' x 4' x 5/8"
> #916 Random Textured Fire Guard panels.
>
> Since I had never done this before I may have done a couple
> things differently. I have already cut and have installed in
> place ALL hardware and NO panels, rather than possibly doing
> both at the same time as I went along. Secondly, instead of
> clicking the hardware between the standard 2' x 4' spacing I
> have either needed to cut all T -shaped 4' sections short
> because of the room size, or I have in one room cut them to
> three matching 3' lengths for a room 9' wide. So I do not have
> two blade type connection supports, one on each end. I have
> fashioned special ends - I didn't just cut them to length. I
> either have T -shaped 4' sections with one blade end support and
> one folded end connection support, or I have both ends folded
>
> To make the folded support connections I cut the T -shaped 4'
> sections about 7/8" longer, and a height equal to either a main-
> T, or a height equal to the wall- L, using aviation snips to
> split and fold the sheet metal in both directions. Having
> never done this, I didn't just want a butt end cut square to
> length. Its all snug, I can place and orient each hardware,
> with panels in, for all time. It supports from the far edge,
> and I could probably install new- C light without supporting
> wires to anything other than the main T -spans I've done anyway.
> I can slide side to side, rotate and I guess I would have
> twisted if I needed to too to get the panels in with some
> coercing. I may even need to trim the folds with the snips if
> for more rotation. And I can remove or mis-align other hardware
> as I go, as long as I can get it back in. In the 3x9@24x35"
> room in the middle row; one end is locked with a blade and the
> other end of that piece is locked with the blade of another
> piece. All pieces in this room have one blade end and one
> folded end This is where just plain square cut to length ends
> may have been better. which brings me to my Q.
>
> So now I have the entire grid built, and looking at the whole
> job I ask myself how do I get these panels in? I can almost
> "twist all the T- 's and just push panels up and in, without
> actually moving the T- grid". Or the 4 sides could move, or
> one on two sides, or swing it out form one corner, but since
> there are numerous panels I my get trapped. If I end up trapped
> can I just "twist all the T- 's and just push panels up and in,
> without actually moving the T- grid". IOW if I could use this
> method I could actually start in the middle, for example - I
> wouldn't. The immediate alternative is to start in a corner and
> cut each piece to match an opening and then start disassembling
> each 4-sided area in order, and be sure I always can, or get out
> of it, and possibly have to go back (all the way), and start
> again. I don't even want to start!! What/how do I do this?
> The directions don't tell me how to do this, he who knows please
> come forward, with spacing recommendations. TIA
>
>
>
>
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