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Posted by Black Dog on February 28, 2007, 7:21 pm
I don't understand why you don't just turn off the valve at the meter, open
the faucets, remove the valve handle, clean the seat, install new seals, and
be done with it ? The valve was installed after the wall was built. Why is
there no room ? A wood shim to back it (pipe and valve) off of the wall may
help give you the needed room to remove the valve stem.
The $15 for the city to shut off the water is cheap. A meter key is about
the same price. If you add copper to galvanized, you will have electrolitic
action without proper method. Dielectric union....teflon tape, teflon
dope....
> these are the issues:
> 1)how to finish old 3/4" copper tube cut ends I'll be putting into the
> valve bores after using the tube cutter
> 2)which of my two valve assembly methods to use for sliding the valves'
> bores onto the tubes' cut ends, and ease of sleeve manipulation
> 3)disconnection/unscrewing at the water meters "out" connection and if
> there are any seals or fittings of any material I need to obtain, and if I
> can (safely) use a galvanized cap temporarily to stop the leaking water
> flow, with or without Teflon tape or plumbers dope
>
> I purchased a B&K 3/4" Ball Valve with compression fittings (on both ends)
> which I want to install in a vertical stretch of 3/4" copper tubing JUST
> AFTER the horizontally mounted ("Trident Canada/Neptune") water meter.
> This is because my current original main water shut-off valve, near front
> of house, up through slab, located JUST BEFORE the water meter is faulty.
> It is faulty in that it does not shut off the water completely when it is
> fully closed - it still flows at a rate of about a 12oz. glass of water
> every minute. It is also a "poor" shut-off valve because it very stiff to
> close the old hand wheel handle even with a wrench. I have some repair
> soldering to do elsewhere in the house, so I need to be able to shut off
> and drain the lines completely. My water company could come out and shut
> the water off at the street ($15 charge each time either to turn the water
> off, or on, or both, if extremely fast). The faulty old valve is
> installed with very tight proximity on rusty old/ painted "pipe" or tube,
> with hex fittings, and is too difficult to fix or replace without more
> experience and having to call the water company.
>
> In order to fit the new valve into the vertical run I have bought a
> wheel-type mini tube cutter. The valve installed will be about 3-7/8"
> from end to end, including outer nuts and compression sleeves installed.
> I have measured both sides for the distances from the outer edges to the
> bottoming points (.967" & .835", plus the 3/8" sleeve and 1/16" edge of
> locking nut), and subtracting from the 3-7/8", the valve will displace
> 1.282" of 3/4" vertical copper tubing, which I have to cut out.
>
> After I mark and cut out the 1.282" of 3/4" tubing with the mini wheel
> tube cutter (Brasscraft T007 from HD), do I need to touch up the ends of
> the freshly cut tubing? I have never done this before, so I can only
> assume that the outer edge will be chamfered from the wheel of the cutter,
> and that the end will be straight, and any burr will be on the inside, and
> irrelevant, except it may chip off in drinking water. The water will be
> running through the tubing at an estimated 12oz./minute, so
> should/could/would I try to touch up the ends in any way with a file, or
> sandpaper, or brush? Its the inside of a compression fitting, remember.
>
> Next, there are 2 ways I can insert the valve into the displaced area of
> the tubing. The first is to cut the gap larger than the calculated
> 1.282", so I can slip the nuts then sleeves on both pieces of Vert.
> tubing, and slide on end of the valve up to the bottoming point, then
> align and slip in the other end of the valve, and center it all. This
> means that neither end of the tubing would be at the bottoming point of
> the valve. I would just have to position the valve so it was centered and
> have an equal maximum connection join on both sides. I haven't calculated
> how much of the 3/4" tube ends would be mating in the bores this way, but
> I also have a little flex in the V-H-V pipe/meter/pipe/tube assembly too.
> I do not know how tight the sleeves will be on the tube, and how easy it
> will be to adjust their position during assembly. Am unsure if it would
> be advisable to put the sleeves in boiling water, or something for a
> minute to expand them prior to assembly to make them easier to slide.
> Another way is to unscrew the water meter compression fitting on the
> "out"-end connection with the nut, which gives me the ability to snuggly
> butt the tube ends to the bottoming points (or best possible) in the
> valves bores. I like this idea. I am at a standstill because I am not
> sure if there are going to be rubber seals or compression pieces which
> would need replacing, either I would have to get them beforehand or not
> use this method. I do not know if a permanently leaking problem will make
> it hard/impossible to re-connect it the nut and any washers or seals
> inside. To take the pressure off me, I may be able to stop the flow
> instead of using buckets/trays. I bought a 3/4" galvanized cap in the
> plumbing dept of HD which seems to have the same thread as the thread on
> the out"-end connection of the water meter. In pondering, the guy at HD
> did check it against another thread coming off something. I am out of my
> depth w/r/t the thread types, like NPT vs. NC, but I viewed 4 threads (5
> crests) in 4-1/2" or 4-2/3" sixteenths on a steel rule and a major
> diameter of 1.044" on a dial caliper, which is an estimated 1"-14,
> regardless of thread type The cap I got has a similar visual distance
> between 5 crests (4-1/2+), and a minor diameter of .934". That's a .110"
> (1.76/16ths) diff b/t meter's max and nut's min thread diameters, and a
> visual tpi equality of +/- 0.1/16". Still I am in no way sure if the cap
> will fit, or even if I should disconnect the water meter "out"-end
> connection. ALL hardware before the Vertical 3/4" tube I intend to splice
> into looks like pipe fitters "pipe" type components vs. copper "tube", but
> I'm not sure. Also, the HD guy said to use Teflon tape to seal the cap,
> but what about re-assembly and whether to clean or add Teflon tape, with
> or w/o seals or fittings.
> .
>
>
>
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