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How to re & re with a new 3/4" compression ball valve while water is streaming

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How to re & re with a new 3/4" compression ball valve while water is streaming bent 02-27-2007
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on March 1, 2007, 10:19 am

> First, the meter must be turned off.

I think the OP said the meter was after the leaking main shut off, so
how does this help?

Wayne

Posted by Black Dog on March 1, 2007, 11:55 am
I believe the OP was talking about the layout FROM his house back to the
meter. If the valve is "before" the meter, it would be the city's problem.
Besides, he said he built a wall, against the bad valve. A tile wall...

>
>> First, the meter must be turned off.
>
> I think the OP said the meter was after the leaking main shut off, so
> how does this help?
>
> Wayne



Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 12:37 pm
I have one leaking valve before the meter i.e leaking valve is closer to the
street than the meter.

The meter itself has NO shut off capability.

I phoned the water company and they said this leaky valve was my problem (I
explained it as before, they asked no questions, maybe I'll phone again
since there may be some confusion).

Forget about the drywall. Lots of room. It looks nicer now I have
insulated and painted the whole room. How about the valve being below the
concrete slab level!!! If I ever had to spin off this one and only shut-off
valve off without taking the hand wheel off first I'd just have to punch out
the drywall, then repair and paint it again.

I am thinking of doing what marson did. Add another (better ball- type)
shut-off valve after all the pipe-fitted thread cutted iron pipe - in the
first piece of 3/4" copper tubing after the meter.

Back to the point. Can I fix the old valve, and do I need to shut the water
off at the street, or at the one & same valve I am fixing, to do it. These
questions are as important as any I have asked and will affect my decision.
With hundreds of qualified people reading my several questions, I can count
the useful comments on one hand - I am open to anything.

>I believe the OP was talking about the layout FROM his house back to the
>meter. If the valve is "before" the meter, it would be the city's problem.
>Besides, he said he built a wall, against the bad valve. A tile wall...
>
>>
>>> First, the meter must be turned off.
>>
>> I think the OP said the meter was after the leaking main shut off, so
>> how does this help?
>>
>> Wayne
>
>



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Posted by Wayne Whitney on March 1, 2007, 2:18 pm

> Back to the point. Can I fix the old valve, and do I need to shut
> the water off at the street, or at the one & same valve I am fixing,
> to do it.

I'm sure you can fix the valve, but I personally don't know how. You
will need to remove the pressure from the valve to do so, that would
mean turning off the water at the street.

If the valve is leaky only in that you can't shut if off 100%, i.e. it
doesn't leak to the surrounding area, then it may be simpler to just
abandon it and install a new valve afterwards. Particularly if the
old valve shuts off sufficiently for you to do the install of the new
valve.

I haven't really followed all your posts, but I do have one comment:
if you are working on a vertical riser, then if the old valve allows
water through at a low enough rate, you should be able to blow the
water out of the riser and solder a new valve or MIP fitting onto the
riser before the water level gets high enough to interfere again.

Yours, Wayne




Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 2:54 pm
I think you are too late. This piece of garbage has been made into a
monster. I need 3 lawyers, a firefighter, and a priest.

>
>> Back to the point. Can I fix the old valve, and do I need to shut
>> the water off at the street, or at the one & same valve I am fixing,
>> to do it.
>
> I'm sure you can fix the valve, but I personally don't know how. You
> will need to remove the pressure from the valve to do so, that would
> mean turning off the water at the street.
>
> If the valve is leaky only in that you can't shut if off 100%, i.e. it
> doesn't leak to the surrounding area, then it may be simpler to just
> abandon it and install a new valve afterwards. Particularly if the
> old valve shuts off sufficiently for you to do the install of the new
> valve.
>
> I haven't really followed all your posts, but I do have one comment:
> if you are working on a vertical riser, then if the old valve allows
> water through at a low enough rate, you should be able to blow the
> water out of the riser and solder a new valve or MIP fitting onto the
> riser before the water level gets high enough to interfere again.
>
> Yours, Wayne
>
>
>
>



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