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Posted by RicodJour on October 12, 2007, 12:09 am
On Oct 11, 11:10 pm, sargon19552...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Oct 11, 4:00 pm, sargon19552...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > > I want to stiffen an interior wall in which I plan to install
> > > subwoofers for a home theater. I would like advice on the best way to
> > > do it.
>
> > As Rico mention, adding significant out of plane stiffness to a
> > timber framed wall means adding depth (thickness) to the wall.
>
> > Without increasing wall depth (thickenss) you could opne up one side
> > & sister heavy steel channels to the 3.5" dimension of the studs. An
> > expensive & labor intensive effort
>
> > Alternatively you could open up the wall on both sides and sheath
> > both sides with plywood; glue & staple, creating a very stiff plate
> > structure.
>
> > when you say stiffen...how much do you desire to increase the
> > stifness? +50%? 2x? 5x?
>
> > cheers
> > Bob
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I should have stated that the wall in question is still under
> construction (no drywall up yet), so I can modify as I wish. It's 3
> feet in front of an exterior wall. The idea is to effectively make an
> enormous speaker enclosure (infinite baffle). I want to stiffen the
> wall so that the force of the subwoofers (a pair of panels with 4 15"
> woofers each) doesn't make the wall move. I'm not sure how much
> stiffer it needs to be. Could I add, say, unistrut to the studs
> ( think that's what jloomis was talking about)? Or how about putting
> pairs of scissors trusses between the wall and the exterior wall where
> the subwoofer panels are? The exterior wall is stucco on the outside,
> and half of it has shear wall panels.
Easiest way to stiffen it would to put a couple intermediate braces
from each stud to the outside wall at the third points vertically.
Effectively you're shortening the unsupported stud length.
Unsupported in this instance means laterally. That would give you the
biggest improvement in stiffness. Since it's an enclosure, - a crawl/
access space - those braces shouldn't really interfere with anything.
Alternatively you could go with much deeper studs, say 2x8s, and use
horizontal blocking at the third points vertically.
The first option would be stiffer and cheaper. I'd also consider
sheathing the stud wall in 3/4" plywood.
R
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