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Installing post footing in basement floor

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Installing post footing in basement floor Mark 11-02-2006
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Posted by Mark on November 2, 2006, 4:46 pm
>
> You're doing a structural repair due to someone else failing to pay
> attention to or understand the involved loads and material strengths.
> I just checked your original post replacement thread - hadn't read it.
> In one of your posts you pointed out that you felt a particular post
> base would be insufficient as it only had a rated capacity of something
> like 3500 pounds, yet your respond to my post about loads with an "I
> have no idea".
>
> You seem to selectively address and ignore load information. Why is
> that?

My assertion that the EPB64 post base with a 3500 lb load capacity would
be insufficient was strictly "from the gut." Having said that, I don't think
it was an unreasonable concern. This is an indoor application, so I
shouldn't
need the standoff that the EPB series brackets provide. The ABA46 that
I propose using is specifically intended for installation on a basement
slab,
and provides about 1" of standoff for good measure. It is also rated for
about 10,000 lbs downward force. Simpson specifies that it may be filled
with grout to "increase its capacity," although they don't specify what the
higher capacity might be.

Without a strain gauge, I cannot tell what the actual loading is on the
existing
post. Perhaps it is less than 3500 lbs, but I am more comfortable with
10,000 lbs capacity.

The existing 4x4 post has stood for 75 years without any obvious distress
in the slab, so I have no reason to believe that it won't serve as a
suitable
base for a 4x6 replacement column. Of course there _may_ be an integral
footing in the slab at that point. Unlikely, but possible.

I plan to use a CC3-1/4-6 post cap, which is made from 7 gauge steel and
spreads the load over 11 inches. I hope that will be sufficient so that the
post no longer exceeds the crush strength of the paired two-by joist.

-Mark







Posted by RicodJour on November 2, 2006, 5:10 pm
Mark wrote:
> >
> > You're doing a structural repair due to someone else failing to pay
> > attention to or understand the involved loads and material strengths.
> > I just checked your original post replacement thread - hadn't read it.
> > In one of your posts you pointed out that you felt a particular post
> > base would be insufficient as it only had a rated capacity of something
> > like 3500 pounds, yet your respond to my post about loads with an "I
> > have no idea".
> >
> > You seem to selectively address and ignore load information. Why is
> > that?
>
> My assertion that the EPB64 post base with a 3500 lb load capacity would
> be insufficient was strictly "from the gut." Having said that, I don't think
> it was an unreasonable concern. This is an indoor application, so I
> shouldn't
> need the standoff that the EPB series brackets provide. The ABA46 that
> I propose using is specifically intended for installation on a basement
> slab,
> and provides about 1" of standoff for good measure. It is also rated for
> about 10,000 lbs downward force. Simpson specifies that it may be filled
> with grout to "increase its capacity," although they don't specify what the
> higher capacity might be.
>
> Without a strain gauge, I cannot tell what the actual loading is on the
> existing
> post. Perhaps it is less than 3500 lbs, but I am more comfortable with
> 10,000 lbs capacity.
>
> The existing 4x4 post has stood for 75 years without any obvious distress
> in the slab, so I have no reason to believe that it won't serve as a
> suitable
> base for a 4x6 replacement column. Of course there _may_ be an integral
> footing in the slab at that point. Unlikely, but possible.
>
> I plan to use a CC3-1/4-6 post cap, which is made from 7 gauge steel and
> spreads the load over 11 inches. I hope that will be sufficient so that the
> post no longer exceeds the crush strength of the paired two-by joist.

You seem to be a methodical guy. Which makes it a little difficult to
follow your reasoning in basing your design on a failed installation
that almost assuredly doesn't meet code (code being the minimum
acceptable construction).

In the amount of time it took you to investigate the post bases you
could have determined exactly what the design load is so you wouldn't
be guessing. Unless you have a large amount of experience in
structures, "from the gut" equates to "wild assed guess". If you need
a little assistance in figuring out how to calculate the loads, just
say so. I assure you that even someone as experienced as Bob Morrison,
engineer extraordinaire, has had to ask some questions - and I've been
happy to answer them! ;)

R


Posted by Bob Morrison on November 2, 2006, 7:30 pm
In a previous post Mark wrote...
> Without a strain gauge, I cannot tell what the actual loading is on the
> existing
> post. Perhaps it is less than 3500 lbs, but I am more comfortable with
> 10,000 lbs capacity.

A strain gage won't do you much good unless you can unload the post first.

A 10,000 pound load equates to about 5 square feet of footing. The 24"
square x 12" deep I suggested earlier will give about 8000 pounds
capacity.

> I will think it over for a few days before I start into this. My main
> concern would be how to support the structure while I am doing this;
> digging a 24" hole would put my shoring posts a fair distance from
> where the existing column is located.

Put in a temporary post on either side of the hole about 12 inches away
from the edge of the hole.
>
> I'm happy to mix my own concrete. Is there a formula that you can
> recommend for a high-strength requirement like this?

I don't do field mix design other than to say if you use typical bagged
concrete mix you should add some portland cement.


--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

Posted by tonyg on November 2, 2006, 1:21 pm
Mark wrote:
> Good morning.
>
> I am nearly ready to replace my 4x4 basement support post.
> As part of this project, I plan to cut a hole in the slab and
> pour a proper post footing using an 8" sonotube, A Simpson
> CB64 bracket, and a bag of 5000psi Sakrete.
>
> I will try to keep the hole small so that the sonotube is a
> fairly snug fit. . .may an inch or even less clearance all around.
> My question is, how would I properly fill the gap between the
> concrete pour and the side of the hole? I have a couple of ideas:
>
> - Pour concrete around the outside of the sonotube during the
> initial pour. The paper would be left in place in the "underground"
> portion, and removed where the footing projects through the slab.
>
> - Remove all of the sonotube after the concrete sets up. Backfill
> around the footing using (what?)
>
> Other suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> -Mark
>
>
If you dig a tidy hole you can pour right in the hole and skip the
tube.However one bag of concrete is not enough for much except a small
fence post. tonyg

Posted by carolyn on November 3, 2006, 4:10 am
Mark wrote:

> Good morning.
>
> I am nearly ready to replace my 4x4 basement support post.
> As part of this project, I plan to cut a hole in the slab and
> pour a proper post footing using an 8" sonotube, A Simpson
> CB64 bracket, and a bag of 5000psi Sakrete.

What are you using as a footing for the post? The post needs to sit on
something that spreads the weight out. If your post is directly on
bedrock, a footing should not be needed. Otherwise check the local regs
and verify the size of footing you will need.

There is a product available at big-box stores, that is basically an
inverted funnel. The bottom of the tube is the correct diameter for a
footing, and over about a four foot rise it narrows to a 6" or 8" inch
diameter. It is made of plastic and meant to be left in the ground. Dig
your hole, drop in the cone, fill with concrete, add any bolts out the top,
backfill and wait for a day. Modern additives for the concrete could have
the concrete set and ready to use, before you have the hole backfilled.

> I will try to keep the hole small so that the sonotube is a
> fairly snug fit. . .may an inch or even less clearance all around.
> My question is, how would I properly fill the gap between the
> concrete pour and the side of the hole? I have a couple of ideas:

If you are able to have you post land on bedrock, then you can use sand,
gravel, or almost anything to backfill the hole. You can even use the dirt
you pulled out in the first place.

> - Pour concrete around the outside of the sonotube during the
> initial pour. The paper would be left in place in the "underground"
> portion, and removed where the footing projects through the slab.

If you leave the paper in place, as it rots it will shrink and you will get
settling around it. That in itself isn't much of an issue on a single
column, but around a foundation wall, it can lead to drainage problems if
not watched and repaired when the time comes. The other issue is the
rotting material - will any of the mold and whatever else grows on it, be
able to get into the house? If so, how will you deal with it?

> - Remove all of the sonotube after the concrete sets up. Backfill
> around the footing using (what?)

A shovel? :) Backfill with the original material from the hole.

Carolyn
--
Carolyn Marenger


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