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Posted by Bob Morrison on November 3, 2006, 10:33 am
In a previous post carolyn wrote...
show/hide quoted text
> There is a product available at big-box stores, that is basically an
> inverted funnel. The bottom of the tube is the correct diameter for a
> footing, and over about a four foot rise it narrows to a 6" or 8" inch
> diameter. It is made of plastic and meant to be left in the ground. Dig
> your hole, drop in the cone, fill with concrete, add any bolts out the top,
> backfill and wait for a day. Modern additives for the concrete could have
> the concrete set and ready to use, before you have the hole backfilled.
>
Carolyn:
I believe you may be making more out of this project than may be
necessary. The OP indicated that is soil is glacial till. This material
will stand with a vertical cut for a few days. More than enough time to
simply cut a hole in the slab, excavate the material, then backfill the
hole with concrete flush with the original slab. This kind of work gets
done in my area all the time. It is simple and easy to do. The hard part
is getting the slab cut and removing the concrete in a neat and orderly
way.
For a repair involving a major support for the house it certainly would
not be out of line to spend the money on a concrete sawing company to give
a neat finished appearance to the project.
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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Posted by carolyn on November 4, 2006, 7:21 am
Bob Morrison wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> In a previous post carolyn wrote...
>> There is a product available at big-box stores, that is basically an
>> inverted funnel. The bottom of the tube is the correct diameter for a
>> footing, and over about a four foot rise it narrows to a 6" or 8" inch
>> diameter. It is made of plastic and meant to be left in the ground. Dig
>> your hole, drop in the cone, fill with concrete, add any bolts out the
>> top,
>> backfill and wait for a day. Modern additives for the concrete could
>> have the concrete set and ready to use, before you have the hole
>> backfilled.
>>
>
> Carolyn:
>
> I believe you may be making more out of this project than may be
> necessary. The OP indicated that is soil is glacial till. This material
> will stand with a vertical cut for a few days. More than enough time to
> simply cut a hole in the slab, excavate the material, then backfill the
> hole with concrete flush with the original slab. This kind of work gets
> done in my area all the time. It is simple and easy to do. The hard part
> is getting the slab cut and removing the concrete in a neat and orderly
> way.
>
> For a repair involving a major support for the house it certainly would
> not be out of line to spend the money on a concrete sawing company to give
> a neat finished appearance to the project.
>
Bob,
You are probably right. I missed the 'glacial till' bit, and even now I
don't know what it is. Off to google in a moment. Thanks!
Carolyn
--
Carolyn Marenger
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Posted by david ashworth on November 6, 2006, 9:41 am
Sir, Do not use a sonor tube. Check to make sure you have adequate depth
(building department). If you are using a 4 by 4, you should make it 12" (at
least in diameter) Free pour the concrete into the hole. By doing this you
fill all voids creating a better bearing position on already compacted soil.
Drop a plumb bob from the spot where the center of the pole is, while the
concrete is WET. This will allow you to place your SIMPSON TIE connector
to the right location. Wait a week before placing weight on it (Concrete
does not reach its fully cured state for about 28 days). When installing the
post, jack up the beam about a 1/4" past where you really want it. cut the
post to this height. The weight of the load above will compress the soil
this much. Here, we use concrete filled steel posts that we buy at a lumber
yard for less than 20.00. Good luck
show/hide quoted text
> Good morning.
> I am nearly ready to replace my 4x4 basement support post.
> As part of this project, I plan to cut a hole in the slab and
> pour a proper post footing using an 8" sonotube, A Simpson
> CB64 bracket, and a bag of 5000psi Sakrete.
> I will try to keep the hole small so that the sonotube is a
> fairly snug fit. . .may an inch or even less clearance all around.
> My question is, how would I properly fill the gap between the
> concrete pour and the side of the hole? I have a couple of ideas:
> - Pour concrete around the outside of the sonotube during the
> initial pour. The paper would be left in place in the "underground"
> portion, and removed where the footing projects through the slab.
> - Remove all of the sonotube after the concrete sets up. Backfill
> around the footing using (what?)
> Other suggestions?
> Thanks
> -Mark
>
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Posted by Mark on November 6, 2006, 11:57 am
> When installing the post, jack up the beam about a 1/4" past where you
> really want it. cut the post to this height. The weight of the load above
> will compress the soil this much.
However I go about this, I _had_ planned to install an adjustable shoring
post for a few days, to (hopefully) work out any settling in the new
footing.
Anything wrong with this strategy?
Thanks
-Mark
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Posted by RicodJour on November 6, 2006, 12:02 pm
Mark wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> > When installing the post, jack up the beam about a 1/4" past where you
> > really want it. cut the post to this height. The weight of the load above
> > will compress the soil this much.
> However I go about this, I _had_ planned to install an adjustable shoring
> post for a few days, to (hopefully) work out any settling in the new
> footing.
> Anything wrong with this strategy?
Why do you feel that the settling would occur in a few days? If you
see the benefits of an adjustable post, why wouldn't you make the
adjustable post permanent? Installing a temporary adjustable post
would be making extra work for yourself and basing it on the assumption
that all settlement would happen within your theoretical time frame.
Nature and structures rarely cooperate with arbitrary time frames.
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> inverted funnel. The bottom of the tube is the correct diameter for a
> footing, and over about a four foot rise it narrows to a 6" or 8" inch
> diameter. It is made of plastic and meant to be left in the ground. Dig
> your hole, drop in the cone, fill with concrete, add any bolts out the top,
> backfill and wait for a day. Modern additives for the concrete could have
> the concrete set and ready to use, before you have the hole backfilled.
>