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Maintenance free siding Nunya 10-04-2006
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Posted by Nunya on October 4, 2006, 7:27 pm
Well, I thought I had found my dream material in Hardie board but I
guess not. Their web page says it must be painted. I thought since it
was a concrete based product that you could put it up and forget it.

I sheathed my house in clear heart redwood and am pretty happy with
that but it does have some drawbacks and has turned out not to be
maintenance free either. Close, but not close enough.

I could do my (detached) garage in redwood. I like working with it
whereas I don't think I would like working with the Hardie board what
with the dust problem. I could go with metal, already have a metal
building/barn, but would rather not.

So the question is what is the thinking on leaving hardie board
unpainted? What would happen? And more importantly, since I am not in
the profession I could use some input on material options I might not
be aware of.

Finally, when I built my deck (Ipe, or Brazillian Walnut) I considered
using the new (to me) composite decking made out of cedar/plastic
composite material. I picked up a piece of this stuff and left it on
the ground for six years or so and it is still intact. A little
weathered, but not cracked. A piece of pine would be gone in a year
from termites, sun damage, etc. Anybody ever try to adapt this stuff
to siding? As far as I know it only comes in 1 1/2 inch thicknesses.

Cosmetics is not really a concern, by the way. My place is VERY
isolated, a mile from the county road. I just want to put it up and
forget it.


Posted by Wayne Whitney on October 4, 2006, 7:41 pm

> Well, I thought I had found my dream material in Hardie board but I
> guess not. Their web page says it must be painted. I thought since it
> was a concrete based product that you could put it up and forget it.

It is available prepainted. Not sure what finishing would be require
if it were installed blind-nailed.

Cheers, Wayne


Posted by Jonny on October 5, 2006, 8:57 am
> Well, I thought I had found my dream material in Hardie board but I
> guess not. Their web page says it must be painted. I thought since it
> was a concrete based product that you could put it up and forget it.
>
> I sheathed my house in clear heart redwood and am pretty happy with
> that but it does have some drawbacks and has turned out not to be
> maintenance free either. Close, but not close enough.
>
> I could do my (detached) garage in redwood. I like working with it
> whereas I don't think I would like working with the Hardie board what
> with the dust problem. I could go with metal, already have a metal
> building/barn, but would rather not.
>
> So the question is what is the thinking on leaving hardie board
> unpainted? What would happen? And more importantly, since I am not in
> the profession I could use some input on material options I might not
> be aware of.
>
> Finally, when I built my deck (Ipe, or Brazillian Walnut) I considered
> using the new (to me) composite decking made out of cedar/plastic
> composite material. I picked up a piece of this stuff and left it on
> the ground for six years or so and it is still intact. A little
> weathered, but not cracked. A piece of pine would be gone in a year
> from termites, sun damage, etc. Anybody ever try to adapt this stuff
> to siding? As far as I know it only comes in 1 1/2 inch thicknesses.
>
> Cosmetics is not really a concern, by the way. My place is VERY
> isolated, a mile from the county road. I just want to put it up and
> forget it.
>

Hardie siding must be caulked and painted. See the warranty writeup at
their website. Its a Portland cement and glue product, susceptible to water
intrusion.

The only relative maintenance free exterior that I know of is cut limestone.
See Egyptian pyramids. Many homes around here have exterior rock walls from
native stone in the area. One has a factory made log cabin. I'm using the
Hardie siding applied and painted per Hardie's specs. All out in rural
central TX.

The common tree out here is the juniper ash, misnomered "cedar" by locals.
It has similar resistance to weathering, but burns extremely well. Probably
why its never considered as potential building material. And similarly, why
I would never use wood/plastic composites for building a house.
--
Jonny



Posted by Nunya on October 5, 2006, 6:24 pm

Maybe I should just go with metal then. Thanks for the responses.

John


Posted by Alan on October 6, 2006, 12:10 pm
Except for the ubiquitous stucco, basically no such thing as a
maintenance free siding in the sense you are referring, at least at a
price you are probably willing to pay. I've got both redwood and
hardibacker siding on my house. The hardibacker is certainly more
durable in terms of the UV rays that our home gets during the summer,
and with simply a coat of Kiltz premium exterior primer, I've satisfied
the Hardibacker requirement that it be painted. Hardibacker accepts
paint very well, and the Kiltz primer has lasted for three years now,
as I try to decide what color coat to paint over it. A good paint job
should last for at least 10 years, it seems to me. Hardibacker is
really very close to stucco in terms of durability, but the company
wants to protect itself, I guess. I used redwood on the corners and
underneath the eaves, but that was before the Hardibacker corner
material was available at Home Depot. I had used tung and groove
redwood salvaged from purlins used on roofing, if you can believe it,
and then filled nail holes and other imperfections with an epoxy based
filler. So, I would be inclined to stay with the redwood for areas not
directly exposed to the sun, but it had to be painted too. Unpainted
redwood is fine for fencing, and will last many years in the rain and
sun relative to any other softwood, but because the UV rays and rain do
eventually cause some cracking and deterioration of the surface, I no
longer feel it's appropriate for a sun exposed deck. So redwood siding
must be coated with a penetrating sealer, paint or something, and in
the case of decks, I've seen the natural beauty and appearance of
redwood destroyed by stains and sealers on some decks. For greater
permanency, I installed hardibacker with deck screws, not nails, and
caulked between the lapped Hardibacker siding when installed, and
occasionally, I look around and recaulk any cracks between boards that
I find. Expansion and contraction over a period of years tends to
expose these. Also, under and around the redwood corners, and along
tung and groove joints, I caulked to keep out insects and weather
before painting with Kiltz. Kiltz stainblocking ability is very good,
but with redwood, even the manufacturer recognizes that the tanins tend
to leach through, so two or three coats are required before putting on
a finish color.

Nunya wrote:
> Well, I thought I had found my dream material in Hardie board but I
> guess not. Their web page says it must be painted. I thought since it
> was a concrete based product that you could put it up and forget it.
>
> I sheathed my house in clear heart redwood and am pretty happy with
> that but it does have some drawbacks and has turned out not to be
> maintenance free either. Close, but not close enough.
>
> I could do my (detached) garage in redwood. I like working with it
> whereas I don't think I would like working with the Hardie board what
> with the dust problem. I could go with metal, already have a metal
> building/barn, but would rather not.
>
> So the question is what is the thinking on leaving hardie board
> unpainted? What would happen? And more importantly, since I am not in
> the profession I could use some input on material options I might not
> be aware of.
>
> Finally, when I built my deck (Ipe, or Brazillian Walnut) I considered
> using the new (to me) composite decking made out of cedar/plastic
> composite material. I picked up a piece of this stuff and left it on
> the ground for six years or so and it is still intact. A little
> weathered, but not cracked. A piece of pine would be gone in a year
> from termites, sun damage, etc. Anybody ever try to adapt this stuff
> to siding? As far as I know it only comes in 1 1/2 inch thicknesses.
>
> Cosmetics is not really a concern, by the way. My place is VERY
> isolated, a mile from the county road. I just want to put it up and
> forget it.


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