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Matching drywall thickness to adjacent plaster

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Matching drywall thickness to adjacent plaster JoeSpareBedroom 04-23-2007
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Posted by JoeSpareBedroom on April 23, 2007, 7:01 am
I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in order
to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be removed
will be contiguous with some that will remain intact. In another, it'll be
removed to a corner. I don't know yet how thick the existing plaster & lath
are, but I suspect it won't match any standard drywall products. If the
plaster's thicker than the thickest drywall available, what's a good way to
make this work? Shims on the beam edges before installing the drywall?
Prayer?



Posted by Michael Bulatovich on April 23, 2007, 7:31 am

> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
> removed will be contiguous with some that will remain intact. In another,
> it'll be removed to a corner. I don't know yet how thick the existing
> plaster & lath are, but I suspect it won't match any standard drywall
> products. If the plaster's thicker than the thickest drywall available,
> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
> installing the drywall? Prayer?

A bit of shimming and a bit of skimming.
--


MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca



Posted by Jeff on April 23, 2007, 4:44 pm
don't be afraid of plaster.
1.screw some wire lath into the hole
2. apply a base & brown coats of perlited gypsum plaster
http://www.bpb-na.com/us/english/finishing_products/downloads/Perlited.pdf
3. finish with diamond coat finish plaster.
Its really faster and easier that going the drywall and multi layers of mud
route.

One thing to remember don't use to much water when mixing the plaster. It
should be nowhere as loose as drywall mud, Wet only enough to make it
plastic. Pack the base coat well and do a damp finish to polish the diamond
coat when it begins to set.

You'll find that plaster is much more durable than drywall.

Jeff


> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
> removed will be contiguous with some that will remain intact. In another,
> it'll be removed to a corner. I don't know yet how thick the existing
> plaster & lath are, but I suspect it won't match any standard drywall
> products. If the plaster's thicker than the thickest drywall available,
> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
> installing the drywall? Prayer?
>



Posted by JoeSpareBedroom on April 23, 2007, 5:03 pm
>
>
>> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
>> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
>> removed will be contiguous with some that will remain intact. In another,
>> it'll be removed to a corner. I don't know yet how thick the existing
>> plaster & lath are, but I suspect it won't match any standard drywall
>> products. If the plaster's thicker than the thickest drywall available,
>> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
>> installing the drywall? Prayer?
>>
>
>


> don't be afraid of plaster.
> 1.screw some wire lath into the hole
> 2. apply a base & brown coats of perlited gypsum plaster
> http://www.bpb-na.com/us/english/finishing_products/downloads/Perlited.pdf
> 3. finish with diamond coat finish plaster.
> Its really faster and easier that going the drywall and multi layers of
> mud route.
>
> One thing to remember don't use to much water when mixing the plaster. It
> should be nowhere as loose as drywall mud, Wet only enough to make it
> plastic. Pack the base coat well and do a damp finish to polish the
> diamond coat when it begins to set.
>
> You'll find that plaster is much more durable than drywall.
>
> Jeff


Jeff, I'm taking down an amount of plaster wall equivalent of about 6 sheets
of drywall. No way I'm going to plaster it again. All the lath is coming off
so I can install fiberglass insulation batts. I've done plenty of plastering
in the past, but in this case, it would be nuts.



Posted by Wayne Whitney on April 23, 2007, 8:57 pm

> Jeff, I'm taking down an amount of plaster wall equivalent of about 6 sheets
> of drywall. No way I'm going to plaster it again. All the lath is coming off
> so I can install fiberglass insulation batts. I've done plenty of plastering
> in the past, but in this case, it would be nuts.

How about blueboard (plasterboard) and a veneer coat of plaster? You
can fur out as needed to get the face of the blueboard within 1/8" of
the existing plaster, and then the veneer coat will even it up.

Cheers, Wayne


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