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Matching existing roof spebby_92 07-31-2007
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Posted by on July 31, 2007, 10:22 am
I am adding an attached garage to my house and will be tying into the
existing roof. I think I have the framing figured out (hip roof). My
question is the about the roof sheathing. The existing roof is
sheathed with 3/4" 1 x 6 planks. If I used 1/2" plywood would the
1/4" difference show when the shingles are applied? I'm reroof the
whole roof. Would 3/4" plywood or 23/32 tongue and groove OSB be a
better choice? Would the thicker material add significantly to the
dead load (10 psf)? My rafter span is very close to the limit for a
2x6 without purlins. Since there are no load bearing walls in the
garage, I can't use purlins. Any comments will be appreciated.


Posted by marson on July 31, 2007, 10:21 pm
On Jul 31, 9:22 am, spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am adding an attached garage to my house and will be tying into the
> existing roof. I think I have the framing figured out (hip roof). My
> question is the about the roof sheathing. The existing roof is
> sheathed with 3/4" 1 x 6 planks. If I used 1/2" plywood would the
> 1/4" difference show when the shingles are applied? I'm reroof the
> whole roof. Would 3/4" plywood or 23/32 tongue and groove OSB be a
> better choice? Would the thicker material add significantly to the
> dead load (10 psf)? My rafter span is very close to the limit for a
> 2x6 without purlins. Since there are no load bearing walls in the
> garage, I can't use purlins. Any comments will be appreciated.

What kind of shingles are you applying? Something like a 40 year
Timberline will cover a lot of sins as we say. At any rate, why use
1/2" plywood? Most roofs are sheathed with 5/8's. 3/4 plywood or OSB
would be better yet, though it would be heavy to use on a roof.


Posted by Robert Allison on July 31, 2007, 11:13 pm
spebby_92@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am adding an attached garage to my house and will be tying into the
> existing roof. I think I have the framing figured out (hip roof). My
> question is the about the roof sheathing. The existing roof is
> sheathed with 3/4" 1 x 6 planks. If I used 1/2" plywood would the
> 1/4" difference show when the shingles are applied? I'm reroof the
> whole roof. Would 3/4" plywood or 23/32 tongue and groove OSB be a
> better choice? Would the thicker material add significantly to the
> dead load (10 psf)? My rafter span is very close to the limit for a
> 2x6 without purlins. Since there are no load bearing walls in the
> garage, I can't use purlins. Any comments will be appreciated.
>

Just build the framing up an extra 1/4", then add the 1/2"
plywood to bring it up even with the existing roof.

--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Posted by on August 1, 2007, 5:01 am
where I am all sheathing is half inch
osb on the walls
plywood on the roof

some people use osb on the roof too but i dont like it

all you have to do is get the first 2 rafters right and the ridge beam

watch how you cut the birds mouth where it sits on the top plate of the wall

when it all lines up
just duplicate it


>I am adding an attached garage to my house and will be tying into the
> existing roof. I think I have the framing figured out (hip roof). My
> question is the about the roof sheathing. The existing roof is
> sheathed with 3/4" 1 x 6 planks. If I used 1/2" plywood would the
> 1/4" difference show when the shingles are applied? I'm reroof the
> whole roof. Would 3/4" plywood or 23/32 tongue and groove OSB be a
> better choice? Would the thicker material add significantly to the
> dead load (10 psf)? My rafter span is very close to the limit for a
> 2x6 without purlins. Since there are no load bearing walls in the
> garage, I can't use purlins. Any comments will be appreciated.
>



Posted by DT on August 1, 2007, 9:50 am

>all you have to do is get the first 2 rafters right and the ridge beam
>
>watch how you cut the birds mouth where it sits on the top plate of the wall
>when it all lines up


Yes, this method will work for you. What counts is the dimension from the
birdsmouth cut to the top of the rafter. Make a template from your existing
rafter and allow another 1/4" height to make up for the difference in the deck
thickness.

--
Dennis


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