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Nails or screws for old cedar siding?

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Nails or screws for old cedar siding? phildcrow 05-04-2008
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Posted by on May 4, 2008, 9:29 am
I'm painting a house I just bought (my very first house), and I have a
question:

Several of the old cut-nails used to hold the siding on are loose, and
therefore the siding is loose. I'm in the process of sanding now, but
when I prime/paint, I want to secure the siding back to the house.
Should I use nails or screws?

At first, I thought, "Screws, absolutely." But do I WANT the siding
to be able to move around a little on the nail? Vinyl siding is put
up loose.

Thanks.

Phil Crow

Posted by jloomis on May 4, 2008, 9:35 am
Painted siding should not move. Painted siding gets caulked and sealed so
that it will not absorb water and moisture and when it is heated by the sun
or cooled by the weather it should remain inert. If water happens to get in
the siding will swell and shrink like a barometer.
I would use screws and stainless type, that have a pre-drill head and
possible bugle head with (seat-cleaning threads) these are trim and deck and
siding screws. They are expensive.
A person can seat these and caulk.
If the siding is clap siding or paint stain, it will absorb moisture and
tend to work......
If using nails use a rim shank type.....
Good luck.
jloomis
> I'm painting a house I just bought (my very first house), and I have a
> question:
>
> Several of the old cut-nails used to hold the siding on are loose, and
> therefore the siding is loose. I'm in the process of sanding now, but
> when I prime/paint, I want to secure the siding back to the house.
> Should I use nails or screws?
>
> At first, I thought, "Screws, absolutely." But do I WANT the siding
> to be able to move around a little on the nail? Vinyl siding is put
> up loose.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Phil Crow



Posted by dpb on May 4, 2008, 9:55 am
jloomis wrote:
> Painted siding should not move. Painted siding gets caulked and sealed ...

No, it should _not_ be caulked (except perhaps at a corner). It is left
w/ bottom edges uncaulked specifically so any moisture has a path out
rather than pooling and being trapped behind...

For OP, agree a ring-shank siding nail would be fine--depending on the
sheathing, make sure you're nailing into something solid--may not be
anything solid-enough except at the wall studs if it's a fairly new
house. If it's old enough, the sheathing may be solid underneath.

--

Posted by jloomis on May 4, 2008, 7:27 pm
some sidings are open bottom......ship lap, clapboard, etc. some sidings
are not. tongue and groove, and v-rustic.........I guess it depends on what
type of siding you are talking about when it comes to caulking.
I would not caulk a clapboard or shiplap, but would a t & g or
v-rustic.....it is made to be sealed tight.....
jloomis
> jloomis wrote:
>> Painted siding should not move. Painted siding gets caulked and sealed
>> ...
>
> No, it should _not_ be caulked (except perhaps at a corner). It is left
> w/ bottom edges uncaulked specifically so any moisture has a path out
> rather than pooling and being trapped behind...
>
> For OP, agree a ring-shank siding nail would be fine--depending on the
> sheathing, make sure you're nailing into something solid--may not be
> anything solid-enough except at the wall studs if it's a fairly new house.
> If it's old enough, the sheathing may be solid underneath.
>
> --



Posted by Glenn on May 4, 2008, 7:34 pm

> some sidings are open bottom......ship lap,
> clapboard, etc. some sidings are not. tongue and
> groove, and v-rustic.........I guess it depends on
> what type of siding you are talking about when it
> comes to caulking.
> I would not caulk a clapboard or shiplap, but would a
> t & g or v-rustic.....it is made to be sealed
> tight.....

T & G if installed right should not be caulked. If
it is put on up side down as I have seen, then yes it
should be caulked


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