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New house Louisana Pacific I beams too far apart

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New house Louisana Pacific I beams too far apart laconia 12-30-2008
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Posted by on December 30, 2008, 10:23 am
This house is about 2 years old now. Two story house on a unfinished
basement. There is a lot of noise from the walls and subfloor (creaks
and pops) when walking on it. I carefully screwed down the subfloor to
the LP wooden I-beams, but this makes no difference since the 3/4 OSB
that makes up the subfloor is sitting across I-beams that are 24" OC
apart. I can visibly see the OSB flexing when stepping in gap b/w the
I-beams. The OSB is 4x8' sheet tounge and groove on the 8' side. The
span of the unsupported beam is about 19' with the longest beam being
29'.

24" seems a bit much to prevent minor floor noise. I am wondering what
can be done to make the floor as quiet as possible. My solution up
until now is to take up the OSB and install "struts" between the I-
beams, but I am not sure how the strut should be constructed and how
far apart they should be. Thanks for your suggestions!

Chris

Posted by jamesgangnc on December 30, 2008, 5:20 pm
24" is fairly common with I beams and engineered floor joists. Are you sure
the sub is 3/4? The simplest thing to do would be to run another layer of
15/32 osb on top of the existing sub floor. Run it 90 deg to the existing.
Glue and screw.

> This house is about 2 years old now. Two story house on a unfinished
> basement. There is a lot of noise from the walls and subfloor (creaks
> and pops) when walking on it. I carefully screwed down the subfloor to
> the LP wooden I-beams, but this makes no difference since the 3/4 OSB
> that makes up the subfloor is sitting across I-beams that are 24" OC
> apart. I can visibly see the OSB flexing when stepping in gap b/w the
> I-beams. The OSB is 4x8' sheet tounge and groove on the 8' side. The
> span of the unsupported beam is about 19' with the longest beam being
> 29'.
> 24" seems a bit much to prevent minor floor noise. I am wondering what
> can be done to make the floor as quiet as possible. My solution up
> until now is to take up the OSB and install "struts" between the I-
> beams, but I am not sure how the strut should be constructed and how
> far apart they should be. Thanks for your suggestions!
> Chris



Posted by RicodJour on December 30, 2008, 5:25 pm
> 24" is fairly common with I beams and engineered floor joists. =A0Are you=
sure
> the sub is 3/4? =A0The simplest thing to do would be to run another layer=
of
> 15/32 osb on top of the existing sub floor. =A0Run it 90 deg to the exist=
ing.
> Glue and screw.

There would be more joists under each sheet if the sheets were run in
the same direction as the existing subfloor. If they're run in the
same direction there's also more leeway in offsetting the sheets so
the joints won't line up.

To the OP: If the main objection is for the first floor, you could
stiffen up the floor more by adding additional blocking between the
joists or by adding pywood/OSB to the exposed undersides of the first
floor joists.

R

Posted by on January 6, 2009, 2:39 pm
> > 24" is fairly common with I beams and engineered floor joists. =A0Are y=
ou sure
> > the sub is 3/4? =A0The simplest thing to do would be to run another lay=
er of
> > 15/32 osb on top of the existing sub floor. =A0Run it 90 deg to the exi=
sting.
> > Glue and screw.
> There would be more joists under each sheet if the sheets were run in
> the same direction as the existing subfloor. =A0If they're run in the
> same direction there's also more leeway in offsetting the sheets so
> the joints won't line up.
> To the OP: =A0If the main objection is for the first floor, you could
> stiffen up the floor more by adding additional blocking between the
> joists or by adding pywood/OSB to the exposed undersides of the first
> floor joists.
> R

Osb tends to flex more in one direction. Going 90 deg gives you more
rigidity in both directions. Blocking is not going to lower the flex
as much as a more rigid floor surface would. The more rigid surface
will transfer the load farther out. And this also involves the least
tear down.

Posted by jloomis on December 30, 2008, 9:09 pm
Glue is important. Also good quality plywood. Blocking and or manufactured
struts are good too. 24" is standard. You can look at the manufactured
truss and see if it is sized for the span.

So, I would take up the floor since it is screwed......(literally) and
figuratively, and block or strut as per manufacturer suggestion. Use a good
quality 3/4" 5 ply t and g. I use 2 - 4 - 1 or 1 1/8" t and g ply. It is
really the best.
Gluing is important, and do not be light with the glue.....It acts as a bed
and helps with squeek.
Good luck......
If you put more ply down on top of osb you still have "buried the squeek"
and added weight to the joist.

jloomis
> This house is about 2 years old now. Two story house on a unfinished
> basement. There is a lot of noise from the walls and subfloor (creaks
> and pops) when walking on it. I carefully screwed down the subfloor to
> the LP wooden I-beams, but this makes no difference since the 3/4 OSB
> that makes up the subfloor is sitting across I-beams that are 24" OC
> apart. I can visibly see the OSB flexing when stepping in gap b/w the
> I-beams. The OSB is 4x8' sheet tounge and groove on the 8' side. The
> span of the unsupported beam is about 19' with the longest beam being
> 29'.
> 24" seems a bit much to prevent minor floor noise. I am wondering what
> can be done to make the floor as quiet as possible. My solution up
> until now is to take up the OSB and install "struts" between the I-
> beams, but I am not sure how the strut should be constructed and how
> far apart they should be. Thanks for your suggestions!
> Chris



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