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Posted by bent on February 28, 2007, 10:21 pm
if I know what PING means. A while back you said you had the same problem.
I want to follow your solution. Do you have any info that can help.
Here's the short version:
I turn off the water as much as possible at the original leaky (gate?)
valve, disconnect the fitted pipe at the OUT of the water meter with the hex
nut. I screw on the galvanized cap (not a nut, a rounded end). I cut out a
section of 3/4" pipe, and install a shark bite valve. Re-attach the lower
section of tube/pipe at the OUT of the water meter and turn on the water.
Actually if I can put a cap on the meter I could put in a soldered ball
valve.
Here's the long version:
My original main water shut-off valve is leaking about 12oz./minute. I
purchased a B&K 3/4" Ball Valve with compression fittings which I want to
install in a vertical stretch of 3/4" copper tubing JUST AFTER the
horizontally mounted Trident Canada/Neptune water meter.
In order to fit the new valve into the ¾" vertical tube run I have bought a
wheel-type mini tube cutter. The installed valve will be about 3-7/8" from
end to end. I have measured both sides for the distances from the outer edge
to the bottoming point (1.404" & 1.272"), and subtracting from the 3-7/8",
the valve will displace approximately 1.282" of 3/4" vertical copper tubing,
which I have to cut out, after I wash but not sand the outside. This method
requires me to disconnect the pipe/tube with elbow at the water meter thread
boss "out"-end connection with the nut in order to get a fully bottomed seat
on both ends of the tube in the valve.
The other method of installing the valve is not to disconnect the pipe/tube
at the water meter "out"-end and to cut the gap larger than the calculated
1.282", so I can slip the nuts then sleeves on both end pieces of cut Vert.
tubing, and slide on one end of the valve up to the bottoming point, then
align and slip on the other end of the valve, and center it all for equal
but not bottoming connection on each side. I am not sure how much to cut out
in this case w/r/t engagement lengths.
Are the sleeves tight, should I pre-heat them in boiling water to expand
them, and make a wooden sliding tool.
To take the pressure off me, I may be able to stop the flow instead of using
just buckets/trays rags while Liters flow. I bought a 3/4" galvanized cap in
the plumbing dept of HD which seems to have the same thread as the thread on
the "out"-end connection of the water meter. I am out of my depth w/r/t the
thread types, like NPT vs. NC, but on the meter I viewed 4 threads (5
crests) in 4-1/2 or 4-2/3 sixteenths on a steel rule and a major diameter of
1.044" using a dial caliper, which is an estimated 1"-14, regardless of
thread type. The cap I got has a similar visual distance between 5 crests
(4-1/2+), and a minor diameter of .934". That's a .110" (1.76/16ths) diff
b/t meter's max thread and nut's min thread diameters, and a visual equality
of tpi,+/- 0.1/16". Still I am in no way sure if this cap thread is designed
to fit the thread on the water housings boss, or even if I SHOULD disconnect
the water meter "out"-end connection in the first place, since it may not
re-seal correctly or require seals . Also, the HD guy said to use Teflon
tape to seal the cap, but what about re-assembly and whether to clean or add
Teflon tape, with or w/o seals or fittings. There are no visible signs of
tape or dope now on either side of the water meter.
QUESTIONS:
1)How to finish the old 3/4" copper tube cut ends I'll be putting into the
valve bores after using the tube cutter. I am not sure about inside burrs
breaking away and floating into fittings downstream.
2)Which of my two valve assembly methods to use for sliding the valves'
bores onto the tubes' cut ends, and what about ease of sleeve manipulation
3)Will I disconnect/re-connect at the water meters "out" connection and if
there are any seals or fittings of any material I need to obtain, and if I
can (safely) use a galvanized cap temporarily to stop the leaking water
flow, with or without Teflon tape or plumbers dope
4)Is a compression fitting Kosher, especially since its a shut-off valve? I
have it because there will be water flowing through if I don't disconnect at
the water meter "out"-end connection, and I am a diy'er and not sure of my
Vertical soldering anyway
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Posted by bent on February 28, 2007, 10:30 pm
.... "shark bite valve."
make that just plain "ball valve"
I have already bought a B&K 3/4" compression fitting ball valve. I was just
trying to get to the bottom of the question with a lawyer, I mean plumber
elsewhere.
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Posted by Black Dog on February 28, 2007, 11:33 pm
Why do you want to make this work hard ? Why do you not want to shut off
the supply from the meter ? Why do you insist on using the valve you already
have ? A FLARED compression fitting would be fine for a main shut off, but
that is another problem if it twists when turning the handle.wal A ring
sleeve compression fitting is prone to failure, especially if you over
tighten the pipe cutter while turning it and collapse the wall of the pipe.
Another factor is trying to sell the house later. An inspector with a
mortgage company will see homeade plumbing right away. The report will list
it as a major problem. I have been doing remodeling for over 30 years. Did I
misunderstand your problem ?
> .... "shark bite valve."
>
> make that just plain "ball valve"
>
> I have already bought a B&K 3/4" compression fitting ball valve. I was
> just trying to get to the bottom of the question with a lawyer, I mean
> plumber elsewhere.
>
>
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Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 12:07 am
Why do you not want to shut off the supply from the meter ? <<<What does
this mean???
Why do you insist on using the valve you already have ? <<<What does this
mean???
Is there a water shut-off on the water meter itself?
The only main water shut-off valve I think I have now (the broken one) is
not a part of the meter.
shut off
> the supply from the meter ? Why do you insist on using the valve you
> already have ?
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Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 12:17 am
and what about what you were saying before about fixing it.
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