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PING marson: ball shut-off valve

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PING marson: ball shut-off valve bent 02-28-2007
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Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 12:24 am
I am talking about the main water shut-off valve 10 inches away from the
water meter located before the meter. Are we talking about the same thing?
Can I fix this?



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Posted by marson on February 28, 2007, 10:50 pm
I'm no plumber, but I'll give you my two cents anyway.

> 1)How to finish the old 3/4" copper tube cut ends I'll be putting into the
> valve bores after using the tube cutter. I am not sure about inside burrs
> breaking away and floating into fittings downstream.

The tubing cutter will leave a nice finish.
>
> 2)Which of my two valve assembly methods to use for sliding the valves'
> bores onto the tubes' cut ends, and what about ease of sleeve manipulation

I'd cut out the section of pipe, disconnect it at the water meter, and
insert the valve that way. Sliding things back and forth is a bitch
IMO. You realize you'll get a flood when you cut into that vertical
section of pipe, unless you have some way of draining the water below
where you are going to splice in the valve.
>
> 3)Will I disconnect/re-connect at the water meters "out" connection and if
> there are any seals or fittings of any material I need to obtain, and if I
> can (safely) use a galvanized cap temporarily to stop the leaking water
> flow, with or without Teflon tape or plumbers dope

I'd be careful with a galvanized cap. The meter has a compression
type fitting which you might muck up with a cap. Not sure if NPT
would work anyway. But I might be wrong--again, I'm no plumber.
Should only take a few minutes to do the repair. Maybe you can get a
helper to empty your bucket or whatever. Heck, I've stopped leaks by
whittling a wooden plug and pounding it into the leak. That'd work,
but then you might break the plug off and have a real mess on your
hands.
>
> 4)Is a compression fitting Kosher, especially since its a shut-off valve? I
> have it because there will be water flowing through if I don't disconnect at
> the water meter "out"-end connection, and I am a diy'er and not sure of my
> Vertical soldering anyway

I think a compression fitting is fine in this situation. A bigger
problem for soldering than your leaking meter valve will be the water
dripping from above...when I did this repair I was replacing the
piping in my whole house so I had the luxury of dry pipes.
>
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Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 12:13 am
thanks marson,
can you tell me anything more about how the nut on the OUT of the meters
threads seals that pipe watertight that connects there. I don't even want to
turn it till I know if theres a washer or anything replaceable in there. Is
it all steel? I have been googling my meter for some time and nothing yet
w/r/t a schematic or anything.



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Posted by Black Dog on March 1, 2007, 12:53 am
Where are you at ?
There should be a valve in the meter assembly unless you have a street
valve. The city will have to shut it off. Some municipalities don't allow
just any yahoo to touch the meter. $15 is not that much, especially if
there is a fine touching the meter.
You say "before the meter". Before would be before the water reaches the
meter. Water supply only flows one way. Many meters have a check valve to
make sure. I understand the bad valve you have to be AFTER the meter and
prior to all of the other fixture shut offs. IE your main supply shut off.

> thanks marson,
> can you tell me anything more about how the nut on the OUT of the meters
> threads seals that pipe watertight that connects there. I don't even want
> to turn it till I know if theres a washer or anything replaceable in
> there. Is it all steel? I have been googling my meter for some time and
> nothing yet w/r/t a schematic or anything.
>
>
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Posted by bent on March 1, 2007, 12:42 pm
I have one leaking valve before the meter i.e leaking valve is closer to the
street than the meter.

The meter itself has NO shut off capability.

I phoned the water company and they said this leaky valve was my problem (I
explained it as before, they asked no questions, maybe I'll phone again
since there may be some confusion).

Forget about the drywall. Lots of room. It looks nicer now I have
insulated and painted the whole room. How about the valve being below the
concrete slab level!!! If I ever had to spin off this one and only shut-off
valve off without taking the hand wheel off first I'd just have to punch out
the drywall, then repair and paint it again.

I am thinking of doing what marson did. Add another (better ball- type)
shut-off valve after all the pipe-fitted thread cutted iron pipe - in the
first piece of 3/4" copper tubing after the meter.

Back to the point. Can I fix the old valve, and do I need to shut the water
off at the street, or at the one & same valve I am fixing, to do it. These
questions are as important as any I have asked and will affect my decision.
With hundreds of qualified people reading my several questions, I can count
the useful comments on one hand - I am open to anything.


> Where are you at ?
> There should be a valve in the meter assembly unless you have a street
> valve. The city will have to shut it off. Some municipalities don't allow
> just any yahoo to touch the meter. $15 is not that much, especially if
> there is a fine touching the meter.
> You say "before the meter". Before would be before the water reaches the
> meter. Water supply only flows one way. Many meters have a check valve to
> make sure. I understand the bad valve you have to be AFTER the meter and
> prior to all of the other fixture shut offs. IE your main supply shut off.



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