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Posted by Steve Barker DLT on October 19, 2008, 11:40 pm
sounds like you're using that junky lead free shit. Get some real solder
from the stain glass shop and you'll be fine.
s
>I am a general contractor but it has been years since I sweated copper.
> I cut the pipe with a pipe cutter tool. I clean both the pipe end (male)
> and the fitting (female) thoroughly. It is shiny clean. I coat both with
> paste flux (the brown stuff). I put the two pieces together until the pipe
> seats all the way into the fitting. My torch is one of these where you
> just push the button and the gas comes on and it lights. The flame is not
> a pin-point, it is pretty open. I hold it about an inch from the fitting
> and heat it up. I have to stay on one side of the fitting since I am
> blocked by things in the way. the flame is on it about 8-10 seconds. I
> apply solder and it melts but it doesn't go into the fitting, it just
> balls up and runs off without being sucked into the fitting. What am I
> doing wrong?
> Thanx
>
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Posted by PeterD on October 20, 2008, 9:55 am
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:40:24 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
>sounds like you're using that junky lead free shit. Get some real solder
>from the stain glass shop and you'll be fine.
>s
Which is not a good idea at all. There is a good reason for lead free
solder.
>>I am a general contractor but it has been years since I sweated copper.
>> I cut the pipe with a pipe cutter tool. I clean both the pipe end (male)
>> and the fitting (female) thoroughly. It is shiny clean. I coat both with
>> paste flux (the brown stuff). I put the two pieces together until the pipe
>> seats all the way into the fitting. My torch is one of these where you
>> just push the button and the gas comes on and it lights. The flame is not
>> a pin-point, it is pretty open. I hold it about an inch from the fitting
>> and heat it up. I have to stay on one side of the fitting since I am
>> blocked by things in the way. the flame is on it about 8-10 seconds. I
>> apply solder and it melts but it doesn't go into the fitting, it just
>> balls up and runs off without being sucked into the fitting. What am I
>> doing wrong?
>> Thanx
>>
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Posted by George on October 20, 2008, 10:06 am
PeterD wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:40:24 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
>
>> sounds like you're using that junky lead free shit. Get some real solder
>>from the stain glass shop and you'll be fine.
>> s
>
> Which is not a good idea at all. There is a good reason for lead free
> solder.
>
Plus quality lead free solder works fine. It wets well and makes a good
joint. The only time I ever had trouble with lead free was when a buddy
called me. He had to get a replacement water heater so he bought a torch
, solder and flux at Home Depot and asked if I could sweat the couplings
because he wasn't confident in his soldering skills. The solder he
bought from Home Depot wouldn't wet. I had to drive home and get some
solder that I had purchased at the local real plumbing store. It took a
few minutes to make perfect joints. If someone wasn't familiar with
soldering they would have spent the weekend with the Home Depot stuff
wondering what they were doing wrong.
>>> I am a general contractor but it has been years since I sweated copper.
>>> I cut the pipe with a pipe cutter tool. I clean both the pipe end (male)
>>> and the fitting (female) thoroughly. It is shiny clean. I coat both with
>>> paste flux (the brown stuff). I put the two pieces together until the pipe
>>> seats all the way into the fitting. My torch is one of these where you
>>> just push the button and the gas comes on and it lights. The flame is not
>>> a pin-point, it is pretty open. I hold it about an inch from the fitting
>>> and heat it up. I have to stay on one side of the fitting since I am
>>> blocked by things in the way. the flame is on it about 8-10 seconds. I
>>> apply solder and it melts but it doesn't go into the fitting, it just
>>> balls up and runs off without being sucked into the fitting. What am I
>>> doing wrong?
>>> Thanx
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Posted by PeterD on October 20, 2008, 7:29 pm
wrote:
>PeterD wrote:
>> On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:40:24 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
>>
>>> sounds like you're using that junky lead free shit. Get some real solder
>>>from the stain glass shop and you'll be fine.
>>> s
>>
>> Which is not a good idea at all. There is a good reason for lead free
>> solder.
>>
>Plus quality lead free solder works fine. It wets well and makes a good
>joint. The only time I ever had trouble with lead free was when a buddy
>called me. He had to get a replacement water heater so he bought a torch
>, solder and flux at Home Depot and asked if I could sweat the couplings
>because he wasn't confident in his soldering skills. The solder he
>bought from Home Depot wouldn't wet. I had to drive home and get some
>solder that I had purchased at the local real plumbing store. It took a
>few minutes to make perfect joints. If someone wasn't familiar with
>soldering they would have spent the weekend with the Home Depot stuff
>wondering what they were doing wrong.
Ouch... Most of the lead free stuff requires more heat, too, which
some people don't realize. I've also found it stronger (and harder),
too. I consider that a benefit. (Not that I've had either fail once
properlly sweated together...)
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Posted by Voyager on October 20, 2008, 9:03 pm
PeterD wrote:
> wrote:
>
>> PeterD wrote:
>>> On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:40:24 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
>>>> sounds like you're using that junky lead free shit. Get some real solder
>>> >from the stain glass shop and you'll be fine.
>>>> s
>>> Which is not a good idea at all. There is a good reason for lead free
>>> solder.
>> Plus quality lead free solder works fine. It wets well and makes a good
>> joint. The only time I ever had trouble with lead free was when a buddy
>> called me. He had to get a replacement water heater so he bought a torch
>> , solder and flux at Home Depot and asked if I could sweat the couplings
>> because he wasn't confident in his soldering skills. The solder he
>> bought from Home Depot wouldn't wet. I had to drive home and get some
>> solder that I had purchased at the local real plumbing store. It took a
>> few minutes to make perfect joints. If someone wasn't familiar with
>> soldering they would have spent the weekend with the Home Depot stuff
>> wondering what they were doing wrong.
>
> Ouch... Most of the lead free stuff requires more heat, too, which
> some people don't realize. I've also found it stronger (and harder),
> too. I consider that a benefit. (Not that I've had either fail once
> properlly sweated together...)
Yes, I used lead-free solder and it worked just fine once I had a good
quality flux. Yes, it takes a little more heat, but nothing a standard
propane torch can't easily provide.
Matt
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> I cut the pipe with a pipe cutter tool. I clean both the pipe end (male)
> and the fitting (female) thoroughly. It is shiny clean. I coat both with
> paste flux (the brown stuff). I put the two pieces together until the pipe
> seats all the way into the fitting. My torch is one of these where you
> just push the button and the gas comes on and it lights. The flame is not
> a pin-point, it is pretty open. I hold it about an inch from the fitting
> and heat it up. I have to stay on one side of the fitting since I am
> blocked by things in the way. the flame is on it about 8-10 seconds. I
> apply solder and it melts but it doesn't go into the fitting, it just
> balls up and runs off without being sucked into the fitting. What am I
> doing wrong?
> Thanx
>