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Posted by kbremner on July 23, 2009, 6:04 am
Ok, so I think we're ready to go this weekend. I've picked out my tile
and the grout is on order! A few questions before I get started.
First, cement backer board. I haven't stripped out the old tile/
flooring yet so I'm not sure what I'll find, but assuming everything
is "average" what size should I use for backer board? Is 1/4"
sufficient or should I be using 1/2"? The cost difference is
negligible so that's not the issue here. I'm wondering about height
difference in the new floor. Also, while I've read quite a bit about
the installation and I think I have the basics down, there are some
"technical details" that most how to books/sites don't really touch
on...
- screws for the underlayment - what type of screws should I be using
and how many? I read somewhere that using thinset under the backer
board isn't really to secure it to the floor, but rather fill in any
slight irregularities in the subfloor. Thus, I would need adequate
numbers of screws to firmly secure it to the subfloor? Do the screw
head need to be covered with an additional layer of thinset (i.e.
cover them like you would on drywall and then apply thinset for laying
the tile)?
- fiberglass tape on the joints - is this the same "adhesive backed"
fiberglass tape they sell for drywall applications? I usually use
paper rolls for this, but I know I have a few rolls of the fiberglass
kicking around.
I'm sure there will be additional questions, but this is what is on my
mind right now. I'm pretty excited to tackle this project and very
excited to see the outcome. Thanks for all your help thus far.
Kevin
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Posted by jloomis on July 23, 2009, 9:07 am
Well,
Assuming your underfloor and subfloor covering are reliable, I would use a
hardi backer that would "feather out" where it meets the existing floor with
tile thickness in mind.
Using thinset on the floor prior to installing hardibacker is a good idea,
and does help give the cement board a "bedding"
I use 1 5/8 " gold drywall screws. I also have used an oversize bit-(junk
bit) to give the bugle head of the screw a place to set so that it does not
stick above the hardi backer and if you try to sink the screw it will break!
Using a fiber tape on the seams and using some thinset ontop helps once
again get the surface closer to level and does the same job as taping
sheetrock. (filling the joint and somewhat connecting the sheets)
I also wet the floor prior to thinsetting the hardibacker. It helps keeping
the thinset from loosing moisture prior to spreading.
Check the floor well prior to laying the hardi backer....If it squeeks, or
moves, screw it down to the joist. Also take measures and screw the
hardiboard to the joist.
john
show/hide quoted text
> Ok, so I think we're ready to go this weekend. I've picked out my tile
> and the grout is on order! A few questions before I get started.
> First, cement backer board. I haven't stripped out the old tile/
> flooring yet so I'm not sure what I'll find, but assuming everything
> is "average" what size should I use for backer board? Is 1/4"
> sufficient or should I be using 1/2"? The cost difference is
> negligible so that's not the issue here. I'm wondering about height
> difference in the new floor. Also, while I've read quite a bit about
> the installation and I think I have the basics down, there are some
> "technical details" that most how to books/sites don't really touch
> on...
> - screws for the underlayment - what type of screws should I be using
> and how many? I read somewhere that using thinset under the backer
> board isn't really to secure it to the floor, but rather fill in any
> slight irregularities in the subfloor. Thus, I would need adequate
> numbers of screws to firmly secure it to the subfloor? Do the screw
> head need to be covered with an additional layer of thinset (i.e.
> cover them like you would on drywall and then apply thinset for laying
> the tile)?
> - fiberglass tape on the joints - is this the same "adhesive backed"
> fiberglass tape they sell for drywall applications? I usually use
> paper rolls for this, but I know I have a few rolls of the fiberglass
> kicking around.
> I'm sure there will be additional questions, but this is what is on my
> mind right now. I'm pretty excited to tackle this project and very
> excited to see the outcome. Thanks for all your help thus far.
> Kevin
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Posted by Cwatters on July 23, 2009, 10:55 am
> Well,
> Assuming your underfloor and subfloor covering are reliable, I would use a
> hardi backer that would "feather out" where it meets the existing floor
> with tile thickness in mind.
> Using thinset on the floor prior to installing hardibacker is a good idea,
> and does help give the cement board a "bedding"
> I use 1 5/8 " gold drywall screws. I also have used an oversize bit-(junk
> bit) to give the bugle head of the screw a place to set so that it does
> not stick above the hardi backer and if you try to sink the screw it will
> break!
> Using a fiber tape on the seams and using some thinset ontop helps once
> again get the surface closer to level and does the same job as taping
> sheetrock. (filling the joint and somewhat connecting the sheets)
> I also wet the floor prior to thinsetting the hardibacker. It helps
> keeping the thinset from loosing moisture prior to spreading.
> Check the floor well prior to laying the hardi backer....If it squeeks, or
> moves, screw it down to the joist. Also take measures and screw the
> hardiboard to the joist.
Perhaps lay down on the floor and look to see if it flexes as someone else
walks about on it. If it does then consider taking it up, fix noggins
between the joists to provide additional support and screw down WBP plywood
before the hardibacker.
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Posted by kbremner on July 24, 2009, 8:25 am
On Jul 23, 10:55=A0am, "Cwatters"
show/hide quoted text
> > Well,
> > Assuming your underfloor and subfloor covering are reliable, I would us=
e a
show/hide quoted text
> > hardi backer that would "feather out" where it meets the existing floor
> > with tile thickness in mind.
> > Using thinset on the floor prior to installing hardibacker is a good id=
ea,
show/hide quoted text
> > and does help give the cement board a "bedding"
> > I use 1 5/8 " gold drywall screws. =A0I also have used an oversize bit-=
(junk
show/hide quoted text
> > bit) to give the bugle head of the screw a place to set so that it does
> > not stick above the hardi backer and if you try to sink the screw it wi=
> > break!
> > Using a fiber tape on the seams and using some thinset ontop helps once
> > again get the surface closer to level and does the same job as taping
> > sheetrock. =A0(filling the joint and somewhat connecting the sheets)
> > I also wet the floor prior to thinsetting the hardibacker. =A0It helps
> > keeping the thinset from loosing moisture prior to spreading.
> > Check the floor well prior to laying the hardi backer....If it squeeks,=
or
show/hide quoted text
> > moves, screw it down to the joist. =A0Also take measures and screw the
> > hardiboard to the joist.
> Perhaps lay down on the floor and look to see if it flexes as someone els=
> walks about on it. If it does then consider taking it up, fix noggins
> between the joists to provide additional support and screw down =A0WBP pl=
ywood
show/hide quoted text
> before the hardibacker.
A couple more questions on thinset mortar...
First, if I use a thinset under the backer board and screw it to the
floor every 8", do I need to allow time for the thinset to dry before
beginning to lay the tile? Also, what is the absolute minimum amount
of time I have to wait before I can put the toilet back down!!! When I
install the tile, I plan to do most of the floor on day one and leave
a path of untiled floor to the toilet to do on day 2, so I'm not
worried about walking on the tile before its ready, just being able to
use the toilet...house full of teenagers who are not so sympathetic to
the "remodeling bug"!
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Posted by jloomis on July 24, 2009, 10:34 am
I would let the thinset on the hardibacker set for one day.
I would let the tile on the backer board set for one day.
I would put a piece of ply down on the floor for use of the potty after
that.
you still have to grout.....so, you need one day for initial thinsetting.
2nd day for tile thinsetting
3rd day for grout setting...
get a porta potti...for a day or 3?
john
On Jul 23, 10:55 am, "Cwatters"
show/hide quoted text
> > Well,
> > Assuming your underfloor and subfloor covering are reliable, I would use
> > a
> > hardi backer that would "feather out" where it meets the existing floor
> > with tile thickness in mind.
> > Using thinset on the floor prior to installing hardibacker is a good
> > idea,
> > and does help give the cement board a "bedding"
> > I use 1 5/8 " gold drywall screws. I also have used an oversize
> > bit-(junk
> > bit) to give the bugle head of the screw a place to set so that it does
> > not stick above the hardi backer and if you try to sink the screw it
> > will
> > break!
> > Using a fiber tape on the seams and using some thinset ontop helps once
> > again get the surface closer to level and does the same job as taping
> > sheetrock. (filling the joint and somewhat connecting the sheets)
> > I also wet the floor prior to thinsetting the hardibacker. It helps
> > keeping the thinset from loosing moisture prior to spreading.
> > Check the floor well prior to laying the hardi backer....If it squeeks,
> > or
> > moves, screw it down to the joist. Also take measures and screw the
> > hardiboard to the joist.
> Perhaps lay down on the floor and look to see if it flexes as someone else
> walks about on it. If it does then consider taking it up, fix noggins
> between the joists to provide additional support and screw down WBP
> plywood
> before the hardibacker.
A couple more questions on thinset mortar...
First, if I use a thinset under the backer board and screw it to the
floor every 8", do I need to allow time for the thinset to dry before
beginning to lay the tile? Also, what is the absolute minimum amount
of time I have to wait before I can put the toilet back down!!! When I
install the tile, I plan to do most of the floor on day one and leave
a path of untiled floor to the toilet to do on day 2, so I'm not
worried about walking on the tile before its ready, just being able to
use the toilet...house full of teenagers who are not so sympathetic to
the "remodeling bug"!
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> and the grout is on order! A few questions before I get started.
> First, cement backer board. I haven't stripped out the old tile/
> flooring yet so I'm not sure what I'll find, but assuming everything
> is "average" what size should I use for backer board? Is 1/4"
> sufficient or should I be using 1/2"? The cost difference is
> negligible so that's not the issue here. I'm wondering about height
> difference in the new floor. Also, while I've read quite a bit about
> the installation and I think I have the basics down, there are some
> "technical details" that most how to books/sites don't really touch
> on...
> - screws for the underlayment - what type of screws should I be using
> and how many? I read somewhere that using thinset under the backer
> board isn't really to secure it to the floor, but rather fill in any
> slight irregularities in the subfloor. Thus, I would need adequate
> numbers of screws to firmly secure it to the subfloor? Do the screw
> head need to be covered with an additional layer of thinset (i.e.
> cover them like you would on drywall and then apply thinset for laying
> the tile)?
> - fiberglass tape on the joints - is this the same "adhesive backed"
> fiberglass tape they sell for drywall applications? I usually use
> paper rolls for this, but I know I have a few rolls of the fiberglass
> kicking around.
> I'm sure there will be additional questions, but this is what is on my
> mind right now. I'm pretty excited to tackle this project and very
> excited to see the outcome. Thanks for all your help thus far.
> Kevin