Problems Installing Glue-Down Wood Floor

Posted by mjb920 on March 12, 2007, 6:48 pm

I am installing a Mohawk engineered wood floor, glued over a concrete
subfloor. I am using the dry lay method, allowing the adhesive to get
tacky before laying the floor, with Mohawk urethane adhesive. I began
an area yesterday 15" wide by 20' long but ran into a few serious
problems.

1. I am installing the planks with the tongue facing the starter wall
and I'm using a hard rubber tapping block on the sides and butt ends
of the planks. Since I have to keep the block at an angle to keep it
out of the wet adhesive, I am dinging the top edge of some of the
planks. I tried using a scrap piece of flooring but that didn't seem
to work any better.

2. Some of the planks seemed to separate, even after being butted
together tightly. The installation instructions say to use blue
painter's tape to hold the planks together, but I was not applying the
tape until after completing a section. Should I apply the tape to
each plank as it is laid? What is the spacing between the strips of
tape?

3. When I lifted some of the boards to check them I am not getting
good adhesive coverage. I used the correct notched trowel and the
subfloor is smooth within specifications.

Thank you for any help you can give me.
Jim B.

Posted by DAC on March 13, 2007, 8:45 am

> I am installing a Mohawk engineered wood floor, glued over a concrete
> subfloor. I am using the dry lay method, allowing the adhesive to get
> tacky before laying the floor, with Mohawk urethane adhesive. I began
> an area yesterday 15" wide by 20' long but ran into a few serious
> problems.
> 1. I am installing the planks with the tongue facing the starter wall
> and I'm using a hard rubber tapping block on the sides and butt ends
> of the planks. Since I have to keep the block at an angle to keep it
> out of the wet adhesive, I am dinging the top edge of some of the
> planks. I tried using a scrap piece of flooring but that didn't seem
> to work any better.
> 2. Some of the planks seemed to separate, even after being butted
> together tightly. The installation instructions say to use blue
> painter's tape to hold the planks together, but I was not applying the
> tape until after completing a section. Should I apply the tape to
> each plank as it is laid? What is the spacing between the strips of
> tape?
> 3. When I lifted some of the boards to check them I am not getting
> good adhesive coverage. I used the correct notched trowel and the
> subfloor is smooth within specifications.
> Thank you for any help you can give me.
> Jim B.

I know nothing about the glue down product...but you may want to call
their support center at: 800-266-4295 M-F 8-5 E.S.T..

With the coverage, if you're using the correct notched trowel, it
could be that you're laying it down too flat when spreading the
adhesive, try keeping the trowel more perpinduclar which keeps the
notches open the most.

Good luck

DAC

Posted by mjb920 on March 13, 2007, 11:32 am

> > I am installing a Mohawk engineered wood floor, glued over a concrete
> > subfloor. I am using the dry lay method, allowing the adhesive to get
> > tacky before laying the floor, with Mohawk urethane adhesive. I began
> > an area yesterday 15" wide by 20' long but ran into a few serious
> > problems.
> > 1. I am installing the planks with the tongue facing the starter wall
> > and I'm using a hard rubber tapping block on the sides and butt ends
> > of the planks. Since I have to keep the block at an angle to keep it
> > out of the wet adhesive, I am dinging the top edge of some of the
> > planks. I tried using a scrap piece of flooring but that didn't seem
> > to work any better.
> > 2. Some of the planks seemed to separate, even after being butted
> > together tightly. The installation instructions say to use blue
> > painter's tape to hold the planks together, but I was not applying the
> > tape until after completing a section. Should I apply the tape to
> > each plank as it is laid? What is the spacing between the strips of
> > tape?
> > 3. When I lifted some of the boards to check them I am not getting
> > good adhesive coverage. I used the correct notched trowel and the
> > subfloor is smooth within specifications.
> > Thank you for any help you can give me.
> > Jim B.

> I know nothing about the glue down product...but you may want to call
> their support center at: 800-266-4295 M-F 8-5 E.S.T..
> With the coverage, if you're using the correct notched trowel, it
> could be that you're laying it down too flat when spreading the
> adhesive, try keeping the trowel more perpinduclar which keeps the
> notches open the most.
> Good luck
> DAC- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the advice. I think I was holding the trowel too flat in
some areas.

I e-mailed their support last night. I've called their support line a
couple times with minor questions, but the person was just reading the
installation instructions to look for my answer. I am going to ask to
speak to someone with more knowledge if they don't give me good
answers.

Posted by Berkshire Bill on March 13, 2007, 8:16 pm

>> > I am installing a Mohawk engineered wood floor, glued over a concrete
>> > subfloor. I am using the dry lay method, allowing the adhesive to get
>> > tacky before laying the floor, with Mohawk urethane adhesive. I began
>> > an area yesterday 15" wide by 20' long but ran into a few serious
>> > problems.
>> > 1. I am installing the planks with the tongue facing the starter wall
>> > and I'm using a hard rubber tapping block on the sides and butt ends
>> > of the planks. Since I have to keep the block at an angle to keep it
>> > out of the wet adhesive, I am dinging the top edge of some of the
>> > planks. I tried using a scrap piece of flooring but that didn't seem
>> > to work any better.
>> > 2. Some of the planks seemed to separate, even after being butted
>> > together tightly. The installation instructions say to use blue
>> > painter's tape to hold the planks together, but I was not applying the
>> > tape until after completing a section. Should I apply the tape to
>> > each plank as it is laid? What is the spacing between the strips of
>> > tape?
>> > 3. When I lifted some of the boards to check them I am not getting
>> > good adhesive coverage. I used the correct notched trowel and the
>> > subfloor is smooth within specifications.
>> > Thank you for any help you can give me.
>> > Jim B.

>> I know nothing about the glue down product...but you may want to call
>> their support center at: 800-266-4295 M-F 8-5 E.S.T..
>> With the coverage, if you're using the correct notched trowel, it
>> could be that you're laying it down too flat when spreading the
>> adhesive, try keeping the trowel more perpinduclar which keeps the
>> notches open the most.
>> Good luck
>> DAC- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -

> Thanks for the advice. I think I was holding the trowel too flat in
> some areas.
> I e-mailed their support last night. I've called their support line a
> couple times with minor questions, but the person was just reading the
> installation instructions to look for my answer. I am going to ask to
> speak to someone with more knowledge if they don't give me good
> answers.

This night shed some light on the call center.

http://images.ucomics.com/comics/cl/2007/cl070313.gif

Bill

Posted by Jerry Riddle on March 13, 2007, 9:45 am

Hi
I have completed a job succesfully with a similar product. The secret lays in
laying a straight edge chalk mark and making sure your first line is square and
does not move from line. Once you have this adhered sometimes if you cant mount
a concrete nail to hold in place use something heavy to secure to that line.
Then use a scrap piece and very gently but with a somewhat firm tap on second
and each addition line tap next line to each one. Additional tip would be to go
from one length to end and start a new one dont go side to side. Alternate each
row DO not try and keep all rows matching as this will cause you much grief and
will not look right stagger them. If you have already installed and looks
incorrect use a scraper and remove and clean adhesive off and try and salvage
what you can to try again as this turned out 1st class in a huge custom home if
you do as I stated
Good luck Jerry
--
Jerry Riddle

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