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Posted by Solomon_Man on September 12, 2007, 8:47 am
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> > All,
> > I have built or have helped build three garages this summer. I have
> > done other garages in the past one here and there for friends. I am no
> > means a expert but I do know my way around tools and construction as
> > my dad was a General Contractor for 30 yrs (until his death) and I
> > worked my way through high school and college doing construction.
>
> > My first garage this summer, I helped build was a 26X40 for a friend.
> > Everything was 1/2 OSB, 2X4X10@ 16" O.C, no windows, standard trusses
> > @ 24 inchs,2 garage doors on the none load sides (peak side) of the
> > garage. It came out beautiful.
>
> > The second was moving my friends original 14X20 garage that was built
> > in the late 1950's over to my home reconstructing it on a new concrete
> > pad. Everything on the garage was 3/4 plywood/board for sheathing,
> > 2X4X8@ 24" O.C., 3 small windows, roof peak was not trusses but
> > "custom" built with 2X6, garage door on none load side (peak). I am
> > very happy with it. It came out beautiful.
>
> > Then there is the current one, that is where my questions come up, and
> > I somewhat concerned about.
>
> > The garage is a 24X32. It is wood frame like the others on a new
> > concrete pad as well. The garage is built 2X4X10 @ 16" O.C, 1/2 OSB
> > Everything, 3 Larger windows (40 inchX40 inch), and one smaller
> > window(23X40), Garage Door on Load Bearing Side (32 foot side), Garage
> > has 2 Large and heavy LVL Beams that were speced out by city officials
> > for over the garage door. All Windows use normally built Headers (2 -
> > 2X8s with sandwhich 1/2 plywood).
>
> > So my concerns;
>
> > As I was unsure of the exact window size when I built the garage I
> > made my headers slightly larger then the windows. So the header is
> > supported basically on the ends like it should and then it has a
> > additional support before entering the window frame area.
>
> > Is this OK? Are headers allowed to be larger then the window layout
> > assuming the 16" O.C
> > framing of the wall is maintained? The largest header is 53". So there
> > is like 6-8 inches on the side larger then it needs to be.
>
> > Then there is another thing that I am concerned about, on the none
> > load bearing side (24 foot side) of the garage. I have tied the wall
> > down with anchors into the concrete (I have actually have one or two
> > extra on each wall) and the tops of the wall are tied into the
> > trusses. The roof and windows are currently installed. The 24 foot
> > none load bearing wall seems to give a little in the center, not at
> > the sides as you would get to the corner. If you smack it (I am
> > 230lb), it will vibrate a little all the way up to the roof. Its not
> > bad enough thats going to come down or anything but compared to the
> > load bearing side of the same garage and the other garages, which are
> > built slightly different, it vibrates. The load bearing side is solid.
>
> > I know it will not be as firm as the smaller garage as it is built
> > with 3/4 and only 8 foot walls.
> > The 26X40 one I helped build has its doors on both ends and the 40
> > foot walls are on the load bearing side, so I can say that is not a
> > really good comparison.
>
> > Is this normal?
> > Did I forget something?
>
> > Again the trusses are tied to the top of the wall and the base is tied
> > to concrete.
> > I believe it is not the headers causing me problems cause the problem
> > only appears on the none load bearing side in the center.
>
> > I am considering running a 2X8 across what would be the bottom of the
> > trusses (roof ties/ceiling joists) in the center to see if that would
> > firm it up a little. There is already 2X8's (left over wood from
> > another project) running across both sides of the trusses (roof ties/
> > ceiling joists). So when I am done, I would have three strips of 2X8
> > lumber on the trusses (roof ties/ceiling joists).
>
> > Any suggestion or ideas?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
>
> Of course there is no problem with having your header longer than the
> window opening, provided that the header is properly sized and
> supported. In a heated building, you might be concerned about
> increased thermal bridging, but this wouldn't be an issue with a
> garage.
>
> First of all, did the truss company provide you with any bracing
> details, and did you follow them? Your 2x8 "rat runner" is a start,
> but to do much good, it must braced somehow. This will depend on the
> configuration of your trusses. If the trusses have a center post, you
> can nail a 2x from the rat runner up to as high as possible up the
> center post. That's just one idea.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks for the help!
I did not receive any truss info from Menards other then the state
paper work that the truss was approved by the state.
This paper work was required by the city.
The truss type is Menards "standard" truss.
Would Menards have this type of information?
I think I follow you on what you are saying. On the ends at the peaks
where the "rat runners" terminate (wall), I would have to run a
vertical board that would hook into the side of the "rat runner" and
attach to the peak end truss (wall peak). This new board addition
would be perpendicular to the outside wall just strengthening the
whole top and just stregnthening the bottom. Basically I have little
or no support on the top end peaks other then the "rat runners" and
the sheathing on top. This is a problem as its somewhat flexible. :)
After thinking about how I rebuilt the complete top of the smaller
garage (14X20) in 2X6's, I can see where I am in error and how to fix
it.
Thanks on the header information.
Thanks again so much,
Chris
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