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Subject Author Date
Radiant Floor Heating Question (boiler vs water heater) Wilma Fingerdo 12-01-2008
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Posted by Cwatters on December 3, 2008, 11:44 am

> OP doesnt discuss Condensing units,

I guess they aren't mandatory in the US? In the UK all new installations or
replacement boilers (tank heaters) have to be condensing. Been like that
since 2005.




Posted by Voyager on December 3, 2008, 4:30 pm

Posted by ransley on December 4, 2008, 6:39 am
> ransley wrote:
> >> ransley wrote:
> >>>> ransley wrote:
:
> >>>>>> In a hydronic floor heat system, what is the best way to heat the =
water
> >>>>>> in the pex tubing?
> >>>>>> The initial study of the building design recommends a 16800 BTU 85=
%
> >>>>>> efficient boiler ($2000 US). =A0I am hearing about possibly a more
> >>>>>> efficient way using two 90% efficient 60 gal water heaters.
> >>>>>> Can anyone make some suggestions to me? =A0I live in Northern Colo=
rado.
> >>>>>> Project description:
> >>>>>> 42 x 80 Pole style building, single level (metal siding + metal ro=
of),
> >>>>>> 12 ft side walls
> >>>>>> FLOOR: =A01 1/2" "Blue board" foam insulation on top of pea gravel=
- 5"
> >>>>>> concrete slab w/ pex tubing on 12" centers - 3 zones (3750' of 1/2=
"
> >>>>>> tubing in approx 250' runs
> >>>>>> INSULATION: Walls- R-26 -- Ceiling- R-38
> >>>>>> Thanks!
> >>>>> =A0 =A0Is this a troll, =A016800 Btu has to be a typo, you do mean =
168000 I
> >>>>> hope I hope. You want efficency and you discuss 85% efficent boiler=
s
> >>>>> when up to 98% are made !! =A0What boiler are you looking at.
> >>>>> =A0 Tell us all who makes a 90% efficent tank water heater... Answe=
r
> >>>>> nobody makes a 90% efficent fossil fuel water tank. Learn about EF-
> >>>>> Energy Factor ratings, and show us the tank. And a tank isnt design=
ed
> >>>>> for long life but it truely aint efficent.
> >>>> You seem pretty sure of yourself ... for being wrong.http://www.amer=
icanwaterheater.com/products/pdf/lpg100.pdf
> >>>>> =A0 1.5" Blueboard is R 7.5,, =A01.5" foil faced Polyisocyanurate i=
s R
> >>>>> 10.5 with an added radiant barrier, which is still not optimal R va=
lue
> >>>>> for concrete radiant heat.
> >>>>> =A0 Walls R 26, Ceiling R38, it sounds off. =A0What is construction=
and
> >>>>> type of insulation You have lots a learnin to do wilma fingerdo, ca=
use
> >>>>> someones lyin to you.
> >>>> More than one person is lying to Wilma.- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> I see your as dumb as her if you dont know facts. Gees, what ignorant
> >>> folks believe.
> >> What part of the Polaris efficiency specification did you not understa=
nd?- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -
> > Polaris, Ao Smith, condensing, are not 94-96% efficent.www.energystar.g=
ov
> > publishes efficency ratings for all tanks made. Efficency of a tank is
> > rated as EF or Energy Factor, the number rating of 85 means 85 cents
> > of every dollar you spend heats the water. I have a $2000.00 Ao Smith
> > Cyclone condensing tank of thermal and burner efficency of 93% but its
> > EF rating is about 83, and all boilers are at least 82% efficent
> > today. 95 or so % of all Tank water heaters sold today in the US even
> > the ones labeled High Efficency are in fact only 55-65 EF. The
> > government still hasnt set a standard yet, its a scam to the
> > uneducated. The lowest gas tankless is 83 EF and a condensing Takagi
> > is 93EF. that is the highest efficency water heater I know of made
> > today, so what you see is most always no better than 55-65 EF or 45-55
> > cents of every dollar you spend heating water goes up the chimney !
> > =A0 =A0Boilers can be much more efficent, the AFUE ratings reflect use,
> > like EF rating does on tanks. There are many 93-96% efficent Ng
> > condensing boilers out, that are the best for Radiant tube sine
> > Radiant uses realtivly low water temps and Condensing boilers drop
> > dramaticly in efficency at over 140F, there is one I know of from
> > canada that is AFUE 98% efficent, and the best tank is maybe 83 EF
> > that I know of.
> > =A0 EF is not a rating Tank manufacturers publish often, or like to tal=
k
> > about, because it highlights tank limitations in true efficency
> > =A0 OP doesnt discuss Condensing units, but is in fact looking at 83%
> > boilers, when 96 is easily avalaible, and most likely is looking at
> > Two, 55-65 EF tank, now thats a waste of money. First 2 tanks would be
> > less efficent than one and she doesnt need 2, but tank are not
> > designed to last as home heaters.
> > =A0 The last I read Energy Star is still working on a tank
> > specification.
> > =A0 Op is best with a 96-98% AFUE condensing boiler, not a 55-65 %
> > efficent water tank made for showers. Find the EF rating on Polaris
> > and post it, Ao Smiths site wont post all EF numbers on their super
> > expensive Condensing units, but I own one.
> Sure, you can define and redefine efficiency any way you want. =A0You
> simply said "efficiency" in your post, you didn't say "energy factor."
> I could also redefine "efficiency" as total energy leaving the ground
> vs. what ends up as heat in my water tank including the energy required
> to extract and transport the fuel to my house and then claim that water
> heaters are only 30% efficient. =A0If you want to play definition games.
> Overall system efficiency is not a simple equation and should include
> economic efficiency as well. =A0Often the extra cost of the ultimate
> highest energy efficient boiler or furnace isn't justified economically.
> When I built my house I went with a 92% efficient (AFUE) furnace vs a
> 95% for two reasons:
> 1. The cost delta was substantial at that time and the payback period
> would have likely exceeded the life of the furnace.
> 2. The contractor told me that the newer furnace had been very
> troublesome compared to the 93% model which had been on the market
> several years longer. =A0Apparently, the variable speed motor and variabl=
e
> flow gas valve hadn't yet been fully sorted out from a reliability
> perspective.
> Using a water heater sounds odd for a building of the size the OP is
> looking at, but if there are other needs for a large water heater
> anyway, then using a large water heater vs. a boiler and a water heater,
> might make sense economically. =A0Then again, maybe a boiler with a heat
> exchanger to heat water for non-heating purposes might make more sense.- =
Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

I did not say Energy Factor, wait one minute, I am the ONLY person to
talk EF

Sure my heat guy said condensing is an issue, his stupidity was the
issue.

Show me one study the states condensing wont pay off, I mean wake up,
at a minimum you get 10% savings.

How many folks here have tankless water heaters in the US, Naw you
guys are all to smart for those. I have one in my house and in summer
my gas bill went down from 45$ to 9 month, mine was a 450$ Bosch, I
get a 4 yr payback and its maybe 6yrs old now

The only way a 55-65% efficent tank makes sense is if you are dumb,
and you cant drink or shower from water for heating so if OP has 2
tanks to heat the OP needs a 3rd unefficent junk to heat water.

Posted by ransley on December 4, 2008, 6:50 am
> ransley wrote:
> >> ransley wrote:
> >>>> ransley wrote:
:
> >>>>>> In a hydronic floor heat system, what is the best way to heat the =
water
> >>>>>> in the pex tubing?
> >>>>>> The initial study of the building design recommends a 16800 BTU 85=
%
> >>>>>> efficient boiler ($2000 US). =A0I am hearing about possibly a more
> >>>>>> efficient way using two 90% efficient 60 gal water heaters.
> >>>>>> Can anyone make some suggestions to me? =A0I live in Northern Colo=
rado.
> >>>>>> Project description:
> >>>>>> 42 x 80 Pole style building, single level (metal siding + metal ro=
of),
> >>>>>> 12 ft side walls
> >>>>>> FLOOR: =A01 1/2" "Blue board" foam insulation on top of pea gravel=
- 5"
> >>>>>> concrete slab w/ pex tubing on 12" centers - 3 zones (3750' of 1/2=
"
> >>>>>> tubing in approx 250' runs
> >>>>>> INSULATION: Walls- R-26 -- Ceiling- R-38
> >>>>>> Thanks!
> >>>>> =A0 =A0Is this a troll, =A016800 Btu has to be a typo, you do mean =
168000 I
> >>>>> hope I hope. You want efficency and you discuss 85% efficent boiler=
s
> >>>>> when up to 98% are made !! =A0What boiler are you looking at.
> >>>>> =A0 Tell us all who makes a 90% efficent tank water heater... Answe=
r
> >>>>> nobody makes a 90% efficent fossil fuel water tank. Learn about EF-
> >>>>> Energy Factor ratings, and show us the tank. And a tank isnt design=
ed
> >>>>> for long life but it truely aint efficent.
> >>>> You seem pretty sure of yourself ... for being wrong.http://www.amer=
icanwaterheater.com/products/pdf/lpg100.pdf
> >>>>> =A0 1.5" Blueboard is R 7.5,, =A01.5" foil faced Polyisocyanurate i=
s R
> >>>>> 10.5 with an added radiant barrier, which is still not optimal R va=
lue
> >>>>> for concrete radiant heat.
> >>>>> =A0 Walls R 26, Ceiling R38, it sounds off. =A0What is construction=
and
> >>>>> type of insulation You have lots a learnin to do wilma fingerdo, ca=
use
> >>>>> someones lyin to you.
> >>>> More than one person is lying to Wilma.- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> I see your as dumb as her if you dont know facts. Gees, what ignorant
> >>> folks believe.
> >> What part of the Polaris efficiency specification did you not understa=
nd?- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -
> > Polaris, Ao Smith, condensing, are not 94-96% efficent.www.energystar.g=
ov
> > publishes efficency ratings for all tanks made. Efficency of a tank is
> > rated as EF or Energy Factor, the number rating of 85 means 85 cents
> > of every dollar you spend heats the water. I have a $2000.00 Ao Smith
> > Cyclone condensing tank of thermal and burner efficency of 93% but its
> > EF rating is about 83, and all boilers are at least 82% efficent
> > today. 95 or so % of all Tank water heaters sold today in the US even
> > the ones labeled High Efficency are in fact only 55-65 EF. The
> > government still hasnt set a standard yet, its a scam to the
> > uneducated. The lowest gas tankless is 83 EF and a condensing Takagi
> > is 93EF. that is the highest efficency water heater I know of made
> > today, so what you see is most always no better than 55-65 EF or 45-55
> > cents of every dollar you spend heating water goes up the chimney !
> > =A0 =A0Boilers can be much more efficent, the AFUE ratings reflect use,
> > like EF rating does on tanks. There are many 93-96% efficent Ng
> > condensing boilers out, that are the best for Radiant tube sine
> > Radiant uses realtivly low water temps and Condensing boilers drop
> > dramaticly in efficency at over 140F, there is one I know of from
> > canada that is AFUE 98% efficent, and the best tank is maybe 83 EF
> > that I know of.
> > =A0 EF is not a rating Tank manufacturers publish often, or like to tal=
k
> > about, because it highlights tank limitations in true efficency
> > =A0 OP doesnt discuss Condensing units, but is in fact looking at 83%
> > boilers, when 96 is easily avalaible, and most likely is looking at
> > Two, 55-65 EF tank, now thats a waste of money. First 2 tanks would be
> > less efficent than one and she doesnt need 2, but tank are not
> > designed to last as home heaters.
> > =A0 The last I read Energy Star is still working on a tank
> > specification.
> > =A0 Op is best with a 96-98% AFUE condensing boiler, not a 55-65 %
> > efficent water tank made for showers. Find the EF rating on Polaris
> > and post it, Ao Smiths site wont post all EF numbers on their super
> > expensive Condensing units, but I own one.
> Sure, you can define and redefine efficiency any way you want. =A0You
> simply said "efficiency" in your post, you didn't say "energy factor."
> I could also redefine "efficiency" as total energy leaving the ground
> vs. what ends up as heat in my water tank including the energy required
> to extract and transport the fuel to my house and then claim that water
> heaters are only 30% efficient. =A0If you want to play definition games.
> Overall system efficiency is not a simple equation and should include
> economic efficiency as well. =A0Often the extra cost of the ultimate
> highest energy efficient boiler or furnace isn't justified economically.
> When I built my house I went with a 92% efficient (AFUE) furnace vs a
> 95% for two reasons:
> 1. The cost delta was substantial at that time and the payback period
> would have likely exceeded the life of the furnace.
> 2. The contractor told me that the newer furnace had been very
> troublesome compared to the 93% model which had been on the market
> several years longer. =A0Apparently, the variable speed motor and variabl=
e
> flow gas valve hadn't yet been fully sorted out from a reliability
> perspective.
> Using a water heater sounds odd for a building of the size the OP is
> looking at, but if there are other needs for a large water heater
> anyway, then using a large water heater vs. a boiler and a water heater,
> might make sense economically. =A0Then again, maybe a boiler with a heat
> exchanger to heat water for non-heating purposes might make more sense.- =
Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

You mean you went with an 82% unit, right. My installer tried to talk
me out of condensing, in fact 90% still do. They key is to get what
works. Condensing furnaces have been a non problem issue for at least
10-15 years, condensing boilers at least 6 years, condensing Oil
boilers are new, but furnaces have been out a long time, its up to you
to learn facts. Bottom line condensing have a minimum savings of 12%,
no honest study that reflects true energy price increases and future
trends will show non condensing best.

Posted by Voyager on December 4, 2008, 7:51 am

> You mean you went with an 82% unit, right. My installer tried to talk
> me out of condensing, in fact 90% still do. They key is to get what
> works. Condensing furnaces have been a non problem issue for at least
> 10-15 years, condensing boilers at least 6 years, condensing Oil
> boilers are new, but furnaces have been out a long time, its up to you
> to learn facts. Bottom line condensing have a minimum savings of 12%,
> no honest study that reflects true energy price increases and future
> trends will show non condensing best.

No, I went with a Lennox Elite that is ~92% AFUE rather than the top of
the line ~95% unit. Both are condensing designs. The difference is
that mine has a single speed blower motor and, I believe, a two-stage
gas valve. I haven't checked the specs lately, but at this time (8
years ago) the top of the line Lennox had a variable speed blower motor
and a variable flow gas valve. Word was that both were causing problems
at the time (again, 2000 era).

Page 3 of 8       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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