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Re: Sheetrock Tape -- is it always necessary at joints?

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Re: Sheetrock Tape -- is it always necessary at joints? John Grabowski 01-07-2008
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Posted by John Grabowski on January 7, 2008, 5:41 pm

> I am fixing some walls in my house that was built in 1971. In the
> entryway, there is a wall that is a story and a half. There are [were]
> two horizontal joints in the sheetrock and they always looked awful
> because they stuck out, i.e., they were slightly raised from the rest
> of the wall and the lighting above made them visually obvious.
>
> I have cut the joints out by removing the entire built up area which
> was about 16 inches wide (each seam). I plan to put in an entirely new
> piece of sheetrock. I want the joint to be perfectly matched to the
> level of the sheetrock so that it does not cast any shadow when
> lighted from above.
>
> If I use tape, the joint will end up being higher than the adjacent
> surface of the sheetrock. Question: Is there some other precision
> technique to finish these joints (was 2, now 4!) so that the surface
> is perfectly flush with the surface of the sheet rock?
>
> One thought: Strip the paper off the sheetrock either side of the
> joint for a distance equal to half the tape width to provide a
> depression for the tape and compound.
>
> How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
> that won't crack over time?


Is it possible to install the drywall vertically thereby avoiding the butt
joints entirely?


Posted by willshak on January 7, 2008, 5:53 pm
on 1/7/2008 5:41 PM John Grabowski said the following:
>
>> I am fixing some walls in my house that was built in 1971. In the
>> entryway, there is a wall that is a story and a half. There are [were]
>> two horizontal joints in the sheetrock and they always looked awful
>> because they stuck out, i.e., they were slightly raised from the rest
>> of the wall and the lighting above made them visually obvious.
>>
>> I have cut the joints out by removing the entire built up area which
>> was about 16 inches wide (each seam). I plan to put in an entirely new
>> piece of sheetrock. I want the joint to be perfectly matched to the
>> level of the sheetrock so that it does not cast any shadow when
>> lighted from above.
>>
>> If I use tape, the joint will end up being higher than the adjacent
>> surface of the sheetrock. Question: Is there some other precision
>> technique to finish these joints (was 2, now 4!) so that the surface
>> is perfectly flush with the surface of the sheet rock?
>>
>> One thought: Strip the paper off the sheetrock either side of the
>> joint for a distance equal to half the tape width to provide a
>> depression for the tape and compound.
>>
>> How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
>> that won't crack over time?
>>
>
>
> Is it possible to install the drywall vertically thereby avoiding the butt
> joints entirely?
>
>
Sure.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Posted by Ken Day on June 22, 2008, 10:01 am
wrote:

>on 1/7/2008 5:41 PM John Grabowski said the following:
>>
>>> I am fixing some walls in my house that was built in 1971. In the
>>> entryway, there is a wall that is a story and a half. There are [were]
>>> two horizontal joints in the sheetrock and they always looked awful
>>> because they stuck out, i.e., they were slightly raised from the rest
>>> of the wall and the lighting above made them visually obvious.
>>>
>>> I have cut the joints out by removing the entire built up area which
>>> was about 16 inches wide (each seam). I plan to put in an entirely new
>>> piece of sheetrock. I want the joint to be perfectly matched to the
>>> level of the sheetrock so that it does not cast any shadow when
>>> lighted from above.
>>>
>>> If I use tape, the joint will end up being higher than the adjacent
>>> surface of the sheetrock. Question: Is there some other precision
>>> technique to finish these joints (was 2, now 4!) so that the surface
>>> is perfectly flush with the surface of the sheet rock?
>>>
>>> One thought: Strip the paper off the sheetrock either side of the
>>> joint for a distance equal to half the tape width to provide a
>>> depression for the tape and compound.
>>>
>>> How else might this be done successfully for a perfectly flush joint
>>> that won't crack over time?
>>>
>>
>>
>> Is it possible to install the drywall vertically thereby avoiding the butt
>> joints entirely?
>>
>>
>Sure.
As the above person said , Sure. But think about this. When you hang
the rock horizontally as it should be , you can use 12' sheets instead
of 8' , so you cover 48 sq ft vs 32. This saves much time and you have
less joints.
The biggie.....would you rather stoop and go from floor to ceiling
taping and finishing the joints or just walk a long at taping at a
comfortable 4' height. Now the 'biggest' biggie. Quality .Think about
how much harder it is to hide the the joints vertically. If you look
at a wall with vertical joints it's much easier to see a poor joint as
oppposed to looking at a horizontal one.

kd


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