Home Page link

Re: switch grounded outlet combo question.

Building Construction - Building Construction Industry Discussions. 

Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Re: switch grounded outlet combo question. Dennis 11-19-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Chris Lewis on November 23, 2007, 10:26 am
> Jamie wrote:
>
> > All runs of H/N to each outlet needs to be of equal length. This is
> > very important especially when it comes to CFCI and arc breakers.

> Why do they need to be of equal length? In some cases the hot runs to a
> switch and then back to the outlet making it quite a bit longer. In a
> completed circuit I can't see how it could matter... ?

Er, I don't think they "have to be", other than as a logical
consequence of all of the conductors for a given circuit
have to be within the same sheathing (or raceway). Part of
this is ensuring you don't get confused as to which neutral
goes with which hot.

Most of the time that is...

A light fixture with a switch leg has a hot path considerably longer
than the neutral path - twice as long as the switch leg.

This is in contrast to knob and tube where the individual conductors
were run independently of each other. They often got confused
as to which neutral went with which hot.

I don't believe that different H/N lengths make much difference to
GFCI or AFCI, except in extreme and unusual situations. Eg: if you
wrapped the neutral many times around an operating fluorescent
ballast I could see it tripping a GFCI. _Maybe_.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Posted by Jamie on November 23, 2007, 11:46 am
Chris Lewis wrote:

>
>>Jamie wrote:
>>
>>
>>> All runs of H/N to each outlet needs to be of equal length. This is
>>>very important especially when it comes to CFCI and arc breakers.
>
>
>
>>Why do they need to be of equal length? In some cases the hot runs to a
>>switch and then back to the outlet making it quite a bit longer. In a
>>completed circuit I can't see how it could matter... ?
>
>
> Er, I don't think they "have to be", other than as a logical
> consequence of all of the conductors for a given circuit
> have to be within the same sheathing (or raceway). Part of
> this is ensuring you don't get confused as to which neutral
> goes with which hot.
>
> Most of the time that is...
>
> A light fixture with a switch leg has a hot path considerably longer
> than the neutral path - twice as long as the switch leg.
>
> This is in contrast to knob and tube where the individual conductors
> were run independently of each other. They often got confused
> as to which neutral went with which hot.
>
> I don't believe that different H/N lengths make much difference to
> GFCI or AFCI, except in extreme and unusual situations. Eg: if you
> wrapped the neutral many times around an operating fluorescent
> ballast I could see it tripping a GFCI. _Maybe_.
Yes, they have to be.
That is why many people have problems with GFCI outlets false tripping.

CFCI's work on load and phase balancing with respect to the race ways.

A while ago we had our electricians replace all the commonly used
outlets on industrial machines with GFCI's only to fine that many
stations were wedging the reset buttons, having the off shift
electricians put noncompliance outlets back in for some area's

They had me go out and examine a few cases to see what was up. over
the years, outlets were added, separate runs of L1 was feed from the
panel for each to have it's own fuse, sharing the L2 line in various
places which throws the balance way off of course...
Of course, most of the time a little indifference isn't going to matter
I had them install a new 120 outlet service system on the outside of
these machines totally isolated from the inner panels of the machines
with each outlet having it's own L1/L2 and (G) all the way to the
distribution panel.

It was a lot of work for them how ever, in the end, they love it now
because they can now use the outlets for their tools while working on
the machines when the machine is locked out at the buss and panels wide
open.

And of course, lighting has not been allowed to use the same outlet
circuit for some time now so that's not an issue any more.

And on a side note, something I saw one day at our facility...
Make sure the emergency lightly intended for a room is connected to the
lighting circuit of that room and not some main circuit breaker for
emergency lighting for lets say a building etc.

Inspectors love catching that one along with insufficient length of
wire hanging out of switch and outlet boxes when opened for inspection! :)
Also, when requested to open the boxes, the inspector may follow you
to watch your procedures of how you disconnected the service before
doing so. They love to spot unsafe work practices.. :)



--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5


Posted by Chris Lewis on November 23, 2007, 1:28 pm
> Chris Lewis wrote:

> > I don't believe that different H/N lengths make much difference to
> > GFCI or AFCI, except in extreme and unusual situations. Eg: if you
> > wrapped the neutral many times around an operating fluorescent
> > ballast I could see it tripping a GFCI. _Maybe_.

> Yes, they have to be. [the same length]

> That is why many people have problems with GFCI outlets false tripping.

> CFCI's work on load and phase balancing with respect to the race ways.

Remember that by definition, a simple two pole device _cannot_ see
"phase differences". There's nothing to compare the phase _to_. All
it can see are instantaneous voltage between the two leads plus
current in the individual leads. You need three conductors (the
ground doesn't count here because a GFCI doesn't care about
the ground) to see "phase".

Yours was an industrial situation (likely very noisy EMI), and not
knowing exactly how these things were wired and what they fed, it's
difficult to tell what was going on. Eg: common ground points on what
was being fed with the equipment and a tiny bit of leakage on the other
leg. Completely isolating both current-carrying leads of the GFCI
(as you ultimately did) from the tool would eliminate much of that,
without having anything to do with individual conductor length.

It could have just been severe EMI on the line side of the GFCI
overwhelming the device or an imbalanced inductive effect.

I really don't think you'd see anything like this in a residential
situation.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Posted by Chris Lewis on November 23, 2007, 10:18 am

> Anyway, I believe that the white IS called a neutral in the UK, but not here
> in the US (not by the NEC anyways).

In formal documents such as the NEC, it's referred to as the "grounded"
or "identified" conductor. However, everybody (including electricians)
call it a neutral most of the time.

Check out:

Subject: "grounding" versus "grounded" versus "neutral".

In the electrical wiring FAQ, section 1.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Posted by Craig M on November 23, 2007, 11:53 pm
Tossing my 2 cents worth in here, in a common switched curcit, the hot and
neutral will be of the same length maybe the difference of the switch
itself, here is how, the romex comes from the breaker at the main panel ,
goes to a switch box on the wall, then another length of romex goes to the
outlet or fixture and is attached to the leads of the fixture or outlet,
back at the switch box, the grounds are wire nutted togetther and a pig-tail
goes to the ground screw on the switch, the whites are wire nutted together
and the blacks go to the switch screws to make the circuit, so for the most
part, the conductors are the same length.
>
>> Anyway, I believe that the white IS called a neutral in the UK, but not
>> here
>> in the US (not by the NEC anyways).
>
> In formal documents such as the NEC, it's referred to as the "grounded"
> or "identified" conductor. However, everybody (including electricians)
> call it a neutral most of the time.
>
> Check out:
>
> Subject: "grounding" versus "grounded" versus "neutral".
>
> In the electrical wiring FAQ, section 1.
> --
> Chris Lewis,
>
> Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
> It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.



Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Re: switch grounded outlet combo question. November 19, 2007, 3:20 pm
Re: switch grounded outlet combo question. November 19, 2007, 4:41 pm
Electircal Outlet Box Question November 2, 2006, 11:30 am
On?off switch for water heater July 16, 2006, 11:21 pm
Switch-receptacle-fixture? November 29, 2006, 9:16 am
Problems with three way electrical switch...HELP June 9, 2008, 9:43 pm
Plaster/Skim removal from Socket/switch boxes February 18, 2007, 5:15 pm
Smaller, less ugly outdoor electric outlet? October 13, 2007, 3:51 pm
(Q:) Switched light on load side of GFCI outlet August 7, 2007, 8:40 am
Question: October 7, 2006, 2:31 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap