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Rebar sealant in Concrete.

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Rebar sealant in Concrete. Ben 06-14-2007
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Posted by Ben on June 14, 2007, 3:55 pm
I have removed an 18" section of concrete under my garage door (cut
with a diamond saw) because it was crumbling. I also removed one row
of foundation blocks under it. The concrete was only 2" thick at that
point and the obvious reason why it crumbled. I'm getting ready to
pour a new entrance. I drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes 4" deep into the
old floor and I'm going to insert 1/2" rebar 18" long to tie the new
to the old..
My problem is what type of sealant to use when I ram them in. King
Sealants have a product for bolts but recommends a hole much larger
than the bolt (Rebar in my case) It is not to be used in wet areas
however but I supposed that it won't be wet when the concrete is dry.
Loctite has a range of products and one of them might be the ticket.
Has anyone had a similar experience?
Ben


Posted by Robert Allison on June 14, 2007, 5:06 pm
Ben wrote:
> I have removed an 18" section of concrete under my garage door (cut
> with a diamond saw) because it was crumbling. I also removed one row
> of foundation blocks under it. The concrete was only 2" thick at that
> point and the obvious reason why it crumbled. I'm getting ready to
> pour a new entrance. I drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes 4" deep into the
> old floor and I'm going to insert 1/2" rebar 18" long to tie the new
> to the old..
> My problem is what type of sealant to use when I ram them in. King
> Sealants have a product for bolts but recommends a hole much larger
> than the bolt (Rebar in my case) It is not to be used in wet areas
> however but I supposed that it won't be wet when the concrete is dry.
> Loctite has a range of products and one of them might be the ticket.
> Has anyone had a similar experience?
> Ben
>

First of all, we dowel into existing concrete to tie a new
slab to it all the time and don't use any type of sealant or
actually adhesives. If you drill a half inch hole into the
existing concrete, you will usually have to drive the #4
dowels into the hole. You will probably have trouble pulling
them back out.

Having said that, in instances where an adhesive is needed, we
use an epoxy anchoring system. There are many on the market,
but we use one from Hilti which is a two part epoxy that comes
in a caulk tube. The parts are mixed in the nozzle and
injected into the holes, then the dowel is inserted.

There are two part types that require a special caulk gun
(quite expensive) but you can find some that come in a single
tube that you can put in any old caulk gun.

Contact your local concrete products supplier and they will
have what you are looking for. Again, I would recommend going
more that 4" into the existing concrete and just driving the
dowels in. You might try one and see how you like the fit.

--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Posted by vMike on June 15, 2007, 12:58 pm

> I have removed an 18" section of concrete under my garage door (cut
> with a diamond saw) because it was crumbling. I also removed one row
> of foundation blocks under it. The concrete was only 2" thick at that
> point and the obvious reason why it crumbled. I'm getting ready to
> pour a new entrance. I drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes 4" deep into the
> old floor and I'm going to insert 1/2" rebar 18" long to tie the new
> to the old..
> My problem is what type of sealant to use when I ram them in. King
> Sealants have a product for bolts but recommends a hole much larger
> than the bolt (Rebar in my case) It is not to be used in wet areas
> however but I supposed that it won't be wet when the concrete is dry.
> Loctite has a range of products and one of them might be the ticket.
> Has anyone had a similar experience?
> Ben
>
There is a special epoxy that is used. I don't know the name but they were
using it on my construction just the other day. The hole has to be the right
size for the rebar and then must be blown out with an air compression to be
completely clean. I am sure your local concrete supply place will know the
right type of epoxy.

Mike



Posted by Glenn on June 15, 2007, 1:22 pm
Someone suggested a 1/2" hole and drive the #4 rebar
into it. If the hole is in the edge of a 4" slab and I
drove a bar like that into it, the slab would split.
The hole needs to be 5/8", not 1/2". It doesn't need
epoxy though.


>
>> I have removed an 18" section of concrete under my
>> garage door (cut
>> with a diamond saw) because it was crumbling. I also
>> removed one row
>> of foundation blocks under it. The concrete was only
>> 2" thick at that
>> point and the obvious reason why it crumbled. I'm
>> getting ready to
>> pour a new entrance. I drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes
>> 4" deep into the
>> old floor and I'm going to insert 1/2" rebar 18"
>> long to tie the new
>> to the old..
>> My problem is what type of sealant to use when I ram
>> them in. King
>> Sealants have a product for bolts but recommends a
>> hole much larger
>> than the bolt (Rebar in my case) It is not to be
>> used in wet areas
>> however but I supposed that it won't be wet when
>> the concrete is dry.
>> Loctite has a range of products and one of them
>> might be the ticket.
>> Has anyone had a similar experience?
>> Ben
>>
> There is a special epoxy that is used. I don't know
> the name but they were
> using it on my construction just the other day. The
> hole has to be the right
> size for the rebar and then must be blown out with an
> air compression to be
> completely clean. I am sure your local concrete
> supply place will know the
> right type of epoxy.
>
> Mike
>
>


Posted by vMike on June 15, 2007, 1:49 pm

> Someone suggested a 1/2" hole and drive the #4 rebar
> into it. If the hole is in the edge of a 4" slab and I
> drove a bar like that into it, the slab would split.
> The hole needs to be 5/8", not 1/2". It doesn't need
> epoxy though.
>
>
In Florida the epoxy is required for hurricane protection I guess



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