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Posted by Ben on June 16, 2007, 9:06 pm
>
>
>
> > vMike wrote:
>
> > >>Someone suggested a 1/2" hole and drive the #4 rebar
> > >>into it. If the hole is in the edge of a 4" slab and I
> > >>drove a bar like that into it, the slab would split.
> > >>The hole needs to be 5/8", not 1/2". It doesn't need
> > >>epoxy though.
>
> > > In Florida the epoxy is required for hurricane protection I guess
>
> > Sometimes we have to use epoxy because it is engineered into
> > the design. Most of the time, the epoxy is not required.
> > Sometimes it is definitely wrong to use epoxy, such as in
> > expansion joints (as in curbs). There we use smooth dowels
> > with one side of the dowel sleeved to allow movement between
> > the separate concrete sections.
>
> > --
> > Robert Allison
> > Rimshot, Inc.
> > Georgetown, TX
>
> I may have missed something in the OP but isn't the edge of the
> concrete that he's talking about only 2" thick?
>
> At 2" I doubt epoxy or no epoxy will make much difference. But it the
> epoxy makes you feel better, go for it.
>
> OP, if you want to use epoxy I suggest SIKA AnchorFix #1 (available
> at HD, at least in SoCal)
>
> fits in standard caulking gun, gels in 5 minutes & cures in an hour or
> so; great stuff
>
> If you're going to epoxy, I would suggest 9/16 or 5/8" hole
>
> followed by brush, blow, brush hole cleanout / prep
>
> Stick the nozzle in & load hole from the bottom.......only a few pumps
> since the rebar will take up most of the hole & you don't want to
> waste this stuff at $16 / tube.
>
> insert rebar, rotate the rebar in a twisting fashion, back & forth to
> spread epoxy
>
> Have all your holes prepped so you can fill & insert rapidly.......the
> stuff cures so fast, it can harden in the nozzle if you hesitate.
>
> The Hilti products are also great
> (I used to use them but switched to SIKA, got a free sample & loved
> it; esp since it goes in a standard caulk gun)
> Hilti now makes product that also goes in a standard gun.
>
> All the "epoxies" (after not epoxy but that's what everyone calls
> them) on the market made by major companies are awesome
> products.........they have to be since the market is so demanding &
> competitive.
>
> On the issue of a 1/2" rebar in a 1/2" drilled hole..... 1/2" rebar
> is ~9/16" over the "bumps" but it has the total cross section of 1/2"
> smooth bar.
>
> A 1/2" rotary hammer bit will tend to drill "slightly
> large" ........so one can easily hammer in rebar, the rebar broaches
> it's way in, with the shaved concrete material filling into the rebar
> deformations.
>
> But for adhesive installations one wants a slip fit with a small bond
> line (minimizes material usage & improves stiffness)
>
> cheers
> Bob
Thanks for all the info guys. I decided not to use a sealant. The old
floor was 3 to 4 inches thick. The 2 inches was at the entrance of the
garage because the foundation blocks had been brought up too high 35
years ago when the house was built.That is why the concreted had
crumbled over the years. I removed one course of blocks which means
the concrete is now 8 to 10 inches thick at that point, since I am
now have a 2 inch slope in 1 foot. No more rain backing into my
garage.
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