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Redoing garage concrete floor saka 10-11-2009
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Posted by saka on October 11, 2009, 4:31 am


How does one redo a concrete floor in an existing garage?

My old floor was shifting and cracking all over the place due to the soil.
The floor was divided into 6 segments and at the joints gaps of 1 inch had
formed. Not only had gaps formed but some slabs were 1/2" different in
height/level - so I removed all the concrete in the garage.

Now I am unsure as to how the concrete should be laid since it is not as
simple as laying concrete slab in an open area.

If someone could give me some insight as to how concrete is poured into an
existing structure that would be great!

Advice is much appreciated.

Garage Specifications:
Length: 8.5 metres
Width: 5.5 metres

Desired concrete thickness: 100mm
-------------------------------------




Posted by jloomis on October 11, 2009, 9:29 am


Hi,
Is the existing subgrade acceptable?
Are you preparing that so that the "same" does not occur?

In any case, pouring concrete in a confined area presents problems.....
The same story as painting yourself into a corner.
There must be some doors....and or windows? (access)

You can use overhead screed boards on the left and right sides so that there
will be no stakes in the concrete pour.
Down the center a person can use a metal buried screed form, that represents
top of concrete and rod off of that. It remains in the concrete and acts as
a "cold" joint, or expansion / contraction line.....

I would make sure to use a "grid" of re-bar in the slab to keep the concrete
together. I have had more luck with re-bar and cracking than any concrete
wire or 6-6 10-10 mesh used.....
Also keeping the rebar at the right height is important so that it does not
get imbedded in the sub-grade.

Are you using a vapor barrier?
If so, I always make sure it is deep enough to cover with a layer of sand to
facilitate concrete pouring.....I never pour on plastic alone....
It can create problems with water and finishing.......

With concrete tools, I always jitter bug the top layer of
concrete......always.
It helps bring up the fines for the top finish, and set some of the larger
rocks below top.

Using a float on a long pole is helpful in a confined area....
I have several mag floats for preliminary surface prep. and then steel
trowels on poles for finsih work.

In the past 4 years I have purchased a power float.....that goes on poles
also.
It is a lifesaver......works wonderful.....can bull float the concrete as
well as finish it all from outside the slab..........
It weighs 24# and has a small gas engine......works great.

Knee skids are also beneficial for finishing concrete in confined areas....
I use metal, knee skids, and like "snow" skis.....you can move out over
concrete without leaving board marks......of course there is a time when
they are most successful as when the concrete is hard enough to use them.

some of my inside pours I have pre-set boards high enough on the walls that
a plank can span the area being poured......
You can "walk" a plank out and finsih an area without even getting in the
concrete......an aluminum "rental plank works well......or a 2x12.....or
scaffold plank.

I do this a lot for colored or stenciled concrete where the surface cannot
be walked on......

have fun.
I am sure I have missed something......
jloomisconstruction and concrete

> How does one redo a concrete floor in an existing garage?
> My old floor was shifting and cracking all over the place due to the soil.
> The floor was divided into 6 segments and at the joints gaps of 1 inch had
> formed. Not only had gaps formed but some slabs were 1/2" different in
> height/level - so I removed all the concrete in the garage.
> Now I am unsure as to how the concrete should be laid since it is not as
> simple as laying concrete slab in an open area.
> If someone could give me some insight as to how concrete is poured into an
> existing structure that would be great!
> Advice is much appreciated.
> Garage Specifications:
> Length: 8.5 metres
> Width: 5.5 metres
> Desired concrete thickness: 100mm
> -------------------------------------
>



Posted by saka on October 11, 2009, 9:52 pm


saka had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/Re-Redoing-garage-concrete-floor-18079-.htm
:

jloomis wrote:

> Hi,
> Is the existing subgrade acceptable?
Not yet. We are at this stage now, dig up the soil, lay the vapour sheet,
tamper the sand and gravel.
> Are you preparing that so that the "same" does not occur?
That is the plan, how deep should the sand/gravel be? 1 inch ?

> In any case, pouring concrete in a confined area presents problems.....
> The same story as painting yourself into a corner.
> There must be some doors....and or windows? (access)

Yes there is a large roller door/side door that can be accessed from the
front.

> You can use overhead screed boards on the left and right sides so that
> there
> will be no stakes in the concrete pour.
How exactly do these overhead screed boards work? since there is no
formwork on the right and left hand sides.

> Down the center a person can use a metal buried screed form, that
> represents
> top of concrete and rod off of that. It remains in the concrete and
> acts as
> a "cold" joint, or expansion / contraction line.....
I found a site metalscreed.com so I now have an idea of what these are.
Are these expensive? and could they be used on the left and right sides as
well instead of using the overhead screeed?

> I would make sure to use a "grid" of re-bar in the slab to
> keep the concrete
> together. I have had more luck with re-bar and cracking than any
> concrete
> wire or 6-6 10-10 mesh used.....
> Also keeping the rebar at the right height is important so that it does
> not
> get imbedded in the sub-grade.

> Are you using a vapor barrier?
> If so, I always make sure it is deep enough to cover with a layer of
> sand to
> facilitate concrete pouring.....I never pour on plastic alone....
> It can create problems with water and finishing.......

> With concrete tools, I always jitter bug the top layer of
> concrete......always.
> It helps bring up the fines for the top finish, and set some of the
> larger
> rocks below top.

> Using a float on a long pole is helpful in a confined area....
> I have several mag floats for preliminary surface prep. and then steel
> trowels on poles for finsih work.

> In the past 4 years I have purchased a power float.....that goes on
> poles
> also.
> It is a lifesaver......works wonderful.....can bull float the concrete
> as
> well as finish it all from outside the slab..........
> It weighs 24# and has a small gas engine......works great.

> Knee skids are also beneficial for finishing concrete in confined
> areas....
> I use metal, knee skids, and like "snow" skis.....you can
> move out over
> concrete without leaving board marks......of course there is a time
> when
> they are most successful as when the concrete is hard enough to use
> them.

> some of my inside pours I have pre-set boards high enough on the walls
> that
> a plank can span the area being poured......
> You can "walk" a plank out and finsih an area without even
> getting in the
> concrete......an aluminum "rental plank works well......or a
> 2x12.....or
> scaffold plank.

> I do this a lot for colored or stenciled concrete where the surface
> cannot
> be walked on......

> have fun.
> I am sure I have missed something......
> jloomisconstruction and concrete

Thanks for your post, it is very much appreciated don't feel so lost now




-------------------------------------




Posted by fftt on October 12, 2009, 12:43 am


On Oct 11, 6:52=A0pm, sakatumi21_at_gmail_dot_...@foo.com (saka) wrote:
> saka had written this in response tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/const=
ruction/Re-Redoing-garage-concre...
> =A0:
> jloomis wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Is the existing subgrade acceptable?
> Not yet. We are at this stage now, dig up the soil, lay the vapour sheet,
> tamper the sand and gravel.> Are you preparing that so that the "same" do=
es not occur?
> That is the plan, how deep should the sand/gravel be? 1 inch ?
> > In any case, pouring concrete in a confined area presents problems.....
> > The same story as painting yourself into a corner.
> > There must be some doors....and or windows? (access)
> Yes there is a large roller door/side door that can be accessed from the
> front.
> > You can use overhead screed boards on the left and right sides so that
> > there
> > will be no stakes in the concrete pour.
> How exactly do these overhead screed boards work? since there is no
> formwork on the right and left hand sides.
> > Down the center a person can use a metal buried screed form, that
> > represents
> > top of concrete and rod off of that. =A0It remains in the concrete and
> > acts as
> > a "cold" joint, or expansion / contraction line.....
> I found a site metalscreed.com so I now have an idea of what these are.
> Are these expensive? and could they be used on the left and right sides a=
s
> well instead of using the overhead screeed?
> > I would make sure to use a "grid" of re-bar in the slab to
> > keep the concrete
> > together. =A0I have had more luck with re-bar and cracking than any
> > concrete
> > wire or 6-6 =A010-10 mesh used.....
> > Also keeping the rebar at the right height is important so that it does
> > not
> > get imbedded in the sub-grade.
> > Are you using a vapor barrier?
> > If so, I always make sure it is deep enough to cover with a layer of
> > sand to
> > facilitate concrete pouring.....I never pour on plastic alone....
> > It can create problems with water and finishing.......
> > With concrete tools, I always jitter bug the top layer of
> > concrete......always.
> > It helps bring up the fines for the top finish, and set some of the
> > larger
> > rocks below top.
> > Using a float on a long pole is helpful in a confined area....
> > I have several mag floats for preliminary surface prep. and then steel
> > trowels on poles for finsih work.
> > In the past 4 years I have purchased a power float.....that goes on
> > poles
> > also.
> > It is a lifesaver......works wonderful.....can bull float the concrete
> > as
> > well as finish it all from outside the slab..........
> > It weighs 24# and has a small gas engine......works great.
> > Knee skids are also beneficial for finishing concrete in confined
> > areas....
> > I use metal, knee skids, and like "snow" skis.....you can
> > move out over
> > concrete without leaving board marks......of course there is a time
> > when
> > they are most successful as when the concrete is hard enough to use
> > them.
> > some of my inside pours I have pre-set boards high enough on the walls
> > that
> > a plank can span the area being poured......
> > You can "walk" a plank out and finsih an area without even
> > getting in the
> > concrete......an aluminum "rental plank works well......or a
> > 2x12.....or
> > scaffold plank.
> > I do this a lot for colored or stenciled concrete where the surface
> > cannot
> > be walked on......
> > have fun.
> > I am sure I have missed something......
> > jloomisconstruction and concrete
> Thanks for your post, it is very much appreciated don't feel so lost now
> -------------------------------------

saka-

You got a lot of good information from jlloomis but I would advise
against doing a confined flat work job of 500 sq ft (50 sq m) as your
first DIY attempt.

cheers
Bob


Posted by jloomis on October 12, 2009, 10:11 am


A person would need help.
I assume saka has some building sense?
On Oct 11, 6:52 pm, sakatumi21_at_gmail_dot_...@foo.com (saka) wrote:
> saka had written this in response
> tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/Re-Redoing-garage-concre...
> :
> jloomis wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Is the existing subgrade acceptable?
> Not yet. We are at this stage now, dig up the soil, lay the vapour sheet,
> tamper the sand and gravel.> Are you preparing that so that the "same"
> does not occur?
> That is the plan, how deep should the sand/gravel be? 1 inch ?
> > In any case, pouring concrete in a confined area presents problems.....
> > The same story as painting yourself into a corner.
> > There must be some doors....and or windows? (access)
> Yes there is a large roller door/side door that can be accessed from the
> front.
> > You can use overhead screed boards on the left and right sides so that
> > there
> > will be no stakes in the concrete pour.
> How exactly do these overhead screed boards work? since there is no
> formwork on the right and left hand sides.
> > Down the center a person can use a metal buried screed form, that
> > represents
> > top of concrete and rod off of that. It remains in the concrete and
> > acts as
> > a "cold" joint, or expansion / contraction line.....
> I found a site metalscreed.com so I now have an idea of what these are.
> Are these expensive? and could they be used on the left and right sides as
> well instead of using the overhead screeed?
> > I would make sure to use a "grid" of re-bar in the slab to
> > keep the concrete
> > together. I have had more luck with re-bar and cracking than any
> > concrete
> > wire or 6-6 10-10 mesh used.....
> > Also keeping the rebar at the right height is important so that it does
> > not
> > get imbedded in the sub-grade.
> > Are you using a vapor barrier?
> > If so, I always make sure it is deep enough to cover with a layer of
> > sand to
> > facilitate concrete pouring.....I never pour on plastic alone....
> > It can create problems with water and finishing.......
> > With concrete tools, I always jitter bug the top layer of
> > concrete......always.
> > It helps bring up the fines for the top finish, and set some of the
> > larger
> > rocks below top.
> > Using a float on a long pole is helpful in a confined area....
> > I have several mag floats for preliminary surface prep. and then steel
> > trowels on poles for finsih work.
> > In the past 4 years I have purchased a power float.....that goes on
> > poles
> > also.
> > It is a lifesaver......works wonderful.....can bull float the concrete
> > as
> > well as finish it all from outside the slab..........
> > It weighs 24# and has a small gas engine......works great.
> > Knee skids are also beneficial for finishing concrete in confined
> > areas....
> > I use metal, knee skids, and like "snow" skis.....you can
> > move out over
> > concrete without leaving board marks......of course there is a time
> > when
> > they are most successful as when the concrete is hard enough to use
> > them.
> > some of my inside pours I have pre-set boards high enough on the walls
> > that
> > a plank can span the area being poured......
> > You can "walk" a plank out and finsih an area without even
> > getting in the
> > concrete......an aluminum "rental plank works well......or a
> > 2x12.....or
> > scaffold plank.
> > I do this a lot for colored or stenciled concrete where the surface
> > cannot
> > be walked on......
> > have fun.
> > I am sure I have missed something......
> > jloomisconstruction and concrete
> Thanks for your post, it is very much appreciated don't feel so lost now
> -------------------------------------

saka-

You got a lot of good information from jlloomis but I would advise
against doing a confined flat work job of 500 sq ft (50 sq m) as your
first DIY attempt.

cheers
Bob



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