|
Posted by fftt on October 12, 2009, 11:12 am
> A person would need help.
n message
> On Oct 11, 6:52 pm, sakatumi21_at_gmail_dot_...@foo.com (saka) wrote:
> > saka had written this in response
> > tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/Re-Redoing-garage-concre=
...
> > :
> > jloomis wrote:
> > > Hi,
> > > Is the existing subgrade acceptable?
> > Not yet. We are at this stage now, dig up the soil, lay the vapour shee=
t,
> > tamper the sand and gravel.> Are you preparing that so that the "same"
> > does not occur?
> > That is the plan, how deep should the sand/gravel be? 1 inch ?
> > > In any case, pouring concrete in a confined area presents problems...=
..
> > > The same story as painting yourself into a corner.
> > > There must be some doors....and or windows? (access)
> > Yes there is a large roller door/side door that can be accessed from th=
e
> > front.
> > > You can use overhead screed boards on the left and right sides so tha=
t
> > > there
> > > will be no stakes in the concrete pour.
> > How exactly do these overhead screed boards work? since there is no
> > formwork on the right and left hand sides.
> > > Down the center a person can use a metal buried screed form, that
> > > represents
> > > top of concrete and rod off of that. It remains in the concrete and
> > > acts as
> > > a "cold" joint, or expansion / contraction line.....
> > I found a site metalscreed.com so I now have an idea of what these are.
> > Are these expensive? and could they be used on the left and right sides=
as
> > well instead of using the overhead screeed?
> > > I would make sure to use a "grid" of re-bar in the slab to
> > > keep the concrete
> > > together. I have had more luck with re-bar and cracking than any
> > > concrete
> > > wire or 6-6 10-10 mesh used.....
> > > Also keeping the rebar at the right height is important so that it do=
es
> > > not
> > > get imbedded in the sub-grade.
> > > Are you using a vapor barrier?
> > > If so, I always make sure it is deep enough to cover with a layer of
> > > sand to
> > > facilitate concrete pouring.....I never pour on plastic alone....
> > > It can create problems with water and finishing.......
> > > With concrete tools, I always jitter bug the top layer of
> > > concrete......always.
> > > It helps bring up the fines for the top finish, and set some of the
> > > larger
> > > rocks below top.
> > > Using a float on a long pole is helpful in a confined area....
> > > I have several mag floats for preliminary surface prep. and then stee=
l
> > > trowels on poles for finsih work.
> > > In the past 4 years I have purchased a power float.....that goes on
> > > poles
> > > also.
> > > It is a lifesaver......works wonderful.....can bull float the concret=
e
> > > as
> > > well as finish it all from outside the slab..........
> > > It weighs 24# and has a small gas engine......works great.
> > > Knee skids are also beneficial for finishing concrete in confined
> > > areas....
> > > I use metal, knee skids, and like "snow" skis.....you can
> > > move out over
> > > concrete without leaving board marks......of course there is a time
> > > when
> > > they are most successful as when the concrete is hard enough to use
> > > them.
> > > some of my inside pours I have pre-set boards high enough on the wall=
s
> > > that
> > > a plank can span the area being poured......
> > > You can "walk" a plank out and finsih an area without even
> > > getting in the
> > > concrete......an aluminum "rental plank works well......or a
> > > 2x12.....or
> > > scaffold plank.
> > > I do this a lot for colored or stenciled concrete where the surface
> > > cannot
> > > be walked on......
> > > have fun.
> > > I am sure I have missed something......
> > > jloomisconstruction and concrete
> > Thanks for your post, it is very much appreciated don't feel so lost no=
w
> > -------------------------------------
> saka-
> You got a lot of good information from jlloomis but I would advise
> against doing a confined flat work job of 500 sq ft (50 sq m) =A0as your
> first DIY attempt.
> cheers
> Bob
j-
I was getting total "rookie" vibes base on the OP & his
reply .......... but flat work scares me, so maybe its just my fear.
I've done a little flat work & I've seen experts do it......I prefer
to watch it done. :)
The results are much better.
Plus his original post, noting 1" gaps & 1/2" differentials has me a
bit concerned.
I'd hate for him to do all this work & have the new floor not work out
any better than the one he's replacing.
cheers
Bob
cheers
Bob
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap