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Posted by Howard on April 24, 2008, 10:46 am
>
>
>
> > Before I go and hire an architect, get building permit, etc. I would lik=
e to
> > get a ballpark on what this might look like...
>
> > I have a bearing wall (2x4 studs) which is 13 ft. long in my living room=
> > which I am thinking of tearing out and replacing with a beam. (2 story
> > house - living room first floor.)
>
> > But looking at "span tables", this is looking like it would need a solid=
> > wood beam like 4 x 10? Well a 10" beam would come down a bit far and not=
> > look so good...
>
> > So how about a steel I-beam? I looked at span tables for I-beams and it
> > looks like a "W6x9" would do the trick? This would come down less and lo=
ok
> > better.
>
> > Anyway I don't know a thing about steel I-beams. Does "W6x9" mean 6 inch=
es
> > wide and 9 inches high?
>
> > Is there a smaller I-beam which would work for this span?
>
> > And I have 2x4 walls that this I-beam would connect to on each side. Wou=
ld
> > the I-beam just rest on say 4 x 6 wood posts? Or have holes drilled in t=
he
> > bottom of the I-beam and lag screw it to the wood posts?
>
> > And how would I fasten the joists resting on the top of the I-beam to th=
e
> > I -beam?
>
> you must support wall on both sides before removing.. temporary walls.
>
> what you need is probably a engineered wood beam pair with a stell
> plate insert.
>
> get this evaluated by a structural engineer before proceeding. they
> can give you specifics
As you are planning please remember that the "posts" supporting the
new beam must transfer their load onto a proper foundation or
location. That load may include the attic and roof loads. The
foundation beneath the first floor wall will need to be reviewed
whether it is a slab, basement or crawlspace. You can also place the
beam in the structure between the first and second floor by supporting
the ceiling/floor as described above, cutting all the floor joists,
inserting the beam and using joist hangers to tie the joists to the
side of the new cross beam.
I did this once and used an engineered wood beam because it is easier
to attach the joists and the supporting posts. I'm a Professional
Engineer and knew that I had to check the foundation, side supports,
the connections, etc. Oh and start looking for any pipes, vents and
electrical lines in the wall you are removing, all will have to be
relocated.
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