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Sealing kickboard molding? SparkyGuy 06-19-2009
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Posted by aemeijers on June 21, 2009, 12:19 pm
Dioclese wrote:
>> "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
>>>> In a fully-insulated home in N. California SF Bay Area (very temperate
>>>> climes) is it common to seal the back side as well as the front of
>>>> kickboard
>>>> molding? The owner is insisting that the back side be sealed also with
>>>> organic varnish or polyurethane.
>>>> Recommendations?
>>>> Thanks.
>>> Do you mean a molding as in "baseboard"?
>>> If you don't have carpet, you can seal the bottom with silicon caulk
>>> after its nailed up. The top can always be caulked.
>>> Believe the idea behind using varnish or polyurethane is to keep wet rot
>>> down if you spill something, and the spill affects the back of the
>>> baseboard. The sheetrock doesn't touch the floor behind the baseboard.
>>> This creates a cavity just waiting for a spill to happen, and hold that
>>> spill for a long time until it finally dissipates. This also affects the
>>> sole plate if its not PT.
>>> --
>>> Dave
>> HUH ??? That's quite a spill if it rots out the floor and baseboard..You
>> would have to spill alot repeatedly in the SAME spot for several years for
>> that to happen....
>
> This is common in bathrooms, especially in older homes. May be throughout
> the house if a flood occurs, but never goes beyond baseboard height.
> Similar in a water heater closet with a water heater burst. A leaky
> built-in dishwasher can do similar behind the dishwasher. A leaky sink
> faucet at its base can do the same. Commonly, its due to a very slight gap
> between the baseboard and floor. There is no baseboard in the last 2 items
> mentioned though. Water accumulates between the baseboard and sole plate.
> The backside of the baseboard wicks the water and may transfer some of it to
> the sheetrock. If the house has a subfloor with plywood covering, its
> common for that plywood to take on that water as well. If the floor is
> covered with carpet, water rot may attack the underlayment.

That is why I keep plastic trays/washtubs/whatever in the cabinets under
all my sinks. Convenient for holding the cabinet junk so you can pull it
out and actually see it, but also acts as a catch basin when (not if) a
container starts leaking, or if the sink feed or trap starts leaking.
You can usually smell it before it overflows.

--
aem sends...

Posted by RicodJour on June 21, 2009, 10:47 am
On Jun 20, 9:37=A0am, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> > In a fully-insulated home in N. California SF Bay Area (very temperate
> > climes) is it common to seal the back side as well as the front of
> > kickboard
> > molding? The owner is insisting that the back side be sealed also with
> > organic varnish or polyurethane.
> > Recommendations?
> > Thanks.
> Do you mean a molding as in "baseboard"?
> If you don't have carpet, you can seal the bottom with silicon caulk afte=
r
> its nailed up. =A0The top can always be caulked.

Silicon caulk is a bad idea around painted surfaces - it interferes
with the paint adhesion. Siliconized (paintable) caulk is better.

R

Posted by The Daring Dufas on June 20, 2009, 12:48 pm
SparkyGuy wrote:
> In a fully-insulated home in N. California SF Bay Area (very temperate
> climes) is it common to seal the back side as well as the front of kickboard
> molding? The owner is insisting that the back side be sealed also with
> organic varnish or polyurethane.
>
> Recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
>

What I've seen in situations like that, is the customer
accepts the price you give him for a normal job then
demands that you do double the amount of work for the
same price. You better have a contract that spells out
exactly what is included for the money.

TDD

Posted by gpsman on June 21, 2009, 1:15 pm
> The owner is insisting that the back side be sealed also with
> organic varnish or polyurethane.
> Recommendations?
> Thanks.

"Change order" fee, plus 3-4 times the estimated original cost of that
portion of the job.

Give 'em whatever they're willing to pay for, nothing they're not.
-----

- gpsman

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