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Shear wall question tonyg 10-12-2006
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Posted by tonyg on October 12, 2006, 12:49 am
Hello,I am putting a foundation under a house. I want to pour a footing
directly in the ground. So will have a hole under a beam and if I were
to build a 2foot hi shear wall and hang it from the beam with anchor
bolts hanging into the hole and then pour my mud up to the bottom of the
plate would that be a good wall. In other words it will not be built
under load by cutting studs tight between two hard surfaces but will be
in a neutral load until I pull the surrounding cribs out. Will this be
an acceptable bearing wall. It sure would be easier for me. TonyG

Posted by Bobk207 on October 12, 2006, 2:02 am

tonyg wrote:
> Hello,I am putting a foundation under a house. I want to pour a footing
> directly in the ground. So will have a hole under a beam and if I were
> to build a 2foot hi shear wall and hang it from the beam with anchor
> bolts hanging into the hole and then pour my mud up to the bottom of the
> plate would that be a good wall. In other words it will not be built
> under load by cutting studs tight between two hard surfaces but will be
> in a neutral load until I pull the surrounding cribs out. Will this be
> an acceptable bearing wall. It sure would be easier for me. TonyG


If I understand your description......Yes

cheers
Bob


Posted by marson on October 12, 2006, 8:13 am

Bobk207 wrote:
> tonyg wrote:
> > Hello,I am putting a foundation under a house. I want to pour a footing
> > directly in the ground. So will have a hole under a beam and if I were
> > to build a 2foot hi shear wall and hang it from the beam with anchor
> > bolts hanging into the hole and then pour my mud up to the bottom of the
> > plate would that be a good wall. In other words it will not be built
> > under load by cutting studs tight between two hard surfaces but will be
> > in a neutral load until I pull the surrounding cribs out. Will this be
> > an acceptable bearing wall. It sure would be easier for me. TonyG
>
>
>You would want a fairly high slump concrete. Also, it is difficult to work the
concrete fully under the wall--you might want to consider a vibrator. You're
there, I'm not, but it is hard to see how putting a wall in first and pouring
second would be easier. For one thing, how are you going to hold it plumb and
straight while you pour? Isn't it going to be more difficult to get concrete on
both sides of the wall?


Posted by Bob Morrison on October 12, 2006, 10:26 am
In a previous post tonyg wrote...
> Hello,I am putting a foundation under a house. I want to pour a footing
> directly in the ground. So will have a hole under a beam and if I were
> to build a 2foot hi shear wall and hang it from the beam with anchor
> bolts hanging into the hole and then pour my mud up to the bottom of the
> plate would that be a good wall. In other words it will not be built
> under load by cutting studs tight between two hard surfaces but will be
> in a neutral load until I pull the surrounding cribs out. Will this be
> an acceptable bearing wall. It sure would be easier for me. TonyG
>

Tony:

That will work. You will want to use a low shrinkage concrete mix, which
usually means low water content. You can use a mid or high range water
reducing admixture (plasticizer) to improve workability.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

Posted by tonyg on October 14, 2006, 12:44 am
Bob Morrison wrote:

> In a previous post tonyg wrote...
>
>>Hello,I am putting a foundation under a house. I want to pour a footing
>>directly in the ground. So will have a hole under a beam and if I were
>>to build a 2foot hi shear wall and hang it from the beam with anchor
>>bolts hanging into the hole and then pour my mud up to the bottom of the
>>plate would that be a good wall. In other words it will not be built
>>under load by cutting studs tight between two hard surfaces but will be
>>in a neutral load until I pull the surrounding cribs out. Will this be
>>an acceptable bearing wall. It sure would be easier for me. TonyG
>>
>
>
> Tony:
>
> That will work. You will want to use a low shrinkage concrete mix, which
> usually means low water content. You can use a mid or high range water
> reducing admixture (plasticizer) to improve workability.
>
Thankyou Bob,There will be Press. Treated plywood on the outside and a
6-8" strip on the inside to keep dirt from getting into the stud
cavities. So I could pour to the top of the mud sill and I might reduce
the chance of shrinkage having any serious effect. Also my pumper guy
pours wet. I could go with a 61/2 sack mix.(?) The reason this is
appealing is that there is really no room to work on these jobs and
building a wall under there takes 5 or more times longer than doing it
in the sunshine. I have done over 25 here in P.T. and I am hoping this
will be a profitable and quality shortcut.Do you take jobs up this way?
TonyG

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