|
Posted by on February 23, 2009, 1:15 pm
> On Feb 23, 12:26=A0pm, jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > On Feb 23, 7:33=A0am, jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
ld actually be a better solution than tagging on the brick
> > > > > > veneer. =A0I assume the mansard is covered in a roofing materia=
l
> > > > > > like 3 tab shingles. =A0Open the soffit and take the porch raft=
ers
> > > > > > all the way back to the stud wall if possible, even cutting the=
m
> > > > > > to bear on the double plate. =A0This would allow a good flashin=
g
> > > > > > solution from the existing mansard to the new flat roof. =A0It =
will
> > > > > > probably require removing one or two courses of mansard shingle=
s
> > > > > > to insure a real good tie-in and a premium flat roof material.
> > > > > 24" cedar shakes with 10" exposure. =A03' heavy felt at the botto=
m of
> > > > > the mansard
> > > > > over the plywood sheathing. =A0All courses interleaved with 15# p=
aper
> > > > > all the way to
> > > > > the top. =A0I can get flashing up under the first course to the f=
irst
> > > > > nailing line, which
> > > > > would be 10" plus a couple. =A0I don't want to touch the shakes.
> > > > > You understand that I'm talking about the new porch roof joists
> > > > > sitting directly beneath
> > > > > the lookout 2x10s...not beside them? =A0The bricks reach as high =
as the
> > > > > top of the double
> > > > > plate in the first floor wall so it would be difficult to get to =
the
> > > > > top plate. =A0Besides, the
> > > > > lookouts already sit on. and are attached to, the top plate and e=
xtend
> > > > > into the house to
> > > > > the next partition wall about 14' away.
> > > > > I want the roof deck to end up just an inch below the drip edge o=
n the
> > > > > mansard.
> > > > Why not go ahead and cut the existing roof back and join the new ro=
of
> > > > directly to it? =A0Sounds like it would give you a little more head=
room
> > > > as well.
> > > Gee, I guess there really is a lot wrong with the clarity of my first
> > > post and with the second as well. =A0I asked about hanging joists fro=
m
> > > some lookout joists with appropriate hardware....do you know of such
> > > hardware?- Hide quoted text -
> > > - Show quoted text -
> > Nope, but you could probably use some really long joist hangers if you
> > can find some. =A0Really need to use 2x8s? =A0I ask because it might be=
be
> > easier to find a joist hanger long enough if you used 2x6s. =A0Probably
> > not code either but if you're not on the coast it's be ok.- Hide quoted=
text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> Actually, the reason I was thinking 2x8 was that then I could taper
> the end that would fit up flush to the lookout joist at an angle to
> give me the proper roof slope.
> I'll have to sketch it up with actual sizes to see but I was thinking
> that hangers for 2x12 could be used...I just didn't want to miss
> something that some of the hardware manufactures might have conjured
> up for something like this.
> I just hate to start trying to set anchors in my bricks....the bricks
> are quite hard, I know how much Portland cement was added to the
> mortar, and I can see all sorts of grief coming from hammer drilling
> up so close to the top...and for what....so I can use some joist
> hangers on a ledger and be to code?
> If all else fails, I'll sketch it up and take it in to the building
> dept. guys and see what they say....I'll use an assumed name.
> The other option (and it's looking better all the time) is to use an
> insulated aluminum panel roof of the type used for manufactured
> sunrooms...light, strong, and easy to do.
> Thanks.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text
I agree about the brick, best left alone if you can finagle it :-)
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap