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Sheetrock over Plaster jacksf 05-31-2007
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Posted by jacksf on May 31, 2007, 7:18 pm
Before I start getting bids on a home project I wanted to get the
opinion of the group.

When putting rock over plaster is there anything I should be aware of
that could make the job harder or not as smooth? Should firring strips
be used on the plaster prior to the rock being placed?

TIA

Posted by benick on May 31, 2007, 9:19 pm

> Before I start getting bids on a home project I wanted to get the opinion
> of the group.
>
> When putting rock over plaster is there anything I should be aware of that
> could make the job harder or not as smooth? Should firring strips be used
> on the plaster prior to the rock being placed?
>
> TIA

First a couple of questions... How bad a shape is the plaster you plan
on going over? Is it falling off the walls and ceiling? Places where the
plaster has fallen off ? Loose lathes? Ect??? One thing to remember that
almost all homeowners don't realize is you will lose most of your reveal on
your window trim , door trim and crown molding ,ect. and will need to move
outlet boxes and light fixtures out 1/2 inch. Although messy it's best to
remove plaster especially on the ceiling . All that old plaster weighs ALOT
and you can NEVER get the sheetrock to suck the old plaster back up on the
ceiling. The sags will remain. Removing it gives you a chance to insulate
and upgrade wiring as well which is USUALLY what I recomend unless it is in
good shape than I recommend repairing plaster with buttons and Durabond and
skimming walls-ceilings with Joint Compound. Pictures would help...



Posted by jacksf on May 31, 2007, 11:01 pm
benick wrote:
>
>>Before I start getting bids on a home project I wanted to get the opinion
>>of the group.
>>
>>When putting rock over plaster is there anything I should be aware of that
>>could make the job harder or not as smooth? Should firring strips be used
>>on the plaster prior to the rock being placed?
>>
>>TIA
>
>
> First a couple of questions... How bad a shape is the plaster you plan
> on going over? Is it falling off the walls and ceiling? Places where the
> plaster has fallen off ? Loose lathes? Ect??? One thing to remember that
> almost all homeowners don't realize is you will lose most of your reveal on
> your window trim , door trim and crown molding ,ect. and will need to move
> outlet boxes and light fixtures out 1/2 inch. Although messy it's best to
> remove plaster especially on the ceiling . All that old plaster weighs ALOT
> and you can NEVER get the sheetrock to suck the old plaster back up on the
> ceiling. The sags will remain. Removing it gives you a chance to insulate
> and upgrade wiring as well which is USUALLY what I recomend unless it is in
> good shape than I recommend repairing plaster with buttons and Durabond and
> skimming walls-ceilings with Joint Compound. Pictures would help...
>
>

One thing I forgot to mention. Old house, built in 1933, only 780
sq.ft. Solid redwood throughout. Came through the Loma Preata
earthquake with just a few cracks in the plaster.

85% of the plaster is ok, just minor cracks that can be fixed easily.
One room has some sagging plaster (about 2' square) from an old leaky
roof (now fixed). Also has popcorn on the roof.

I plan on removing all the trim around the doors and windows anyway, and
installing crown moulding (none now).

Insulating is not an issue nor is electrical which was done a couple of
years ago.

I remember what a mess it was when my kitchen and bathroom were remodled
and they did remove all the old lath and plaster.

All in all, I would say that the plaster is in good shape so maybe i'm
better off just haveing it repaired and then painted.

Thanks for your valuable input. Appreciate it.


Posted by benick on June 1, 2007, 12:11 am

> benick wrote:
>>
>>>Before I start getting bids on a home project I wanted to get the opinion
>>>of the group.
>>>
>>>When putting rock over plaster is there anything I should be aware of
>>>that could make the job harder or not as smooth? Should firring strips
>>>be used on the plaster prior to the rock being placed?
>>>
>>>TIA
>>
>>
>> First a couple of questions... How bad a shape is the plaster you
>> plan on going over? Is it falling off the walls and ceiling? Places where
>> the plaster has fallen off ? Loose lathes? Ect??? One thing to remember
>> that almost all homeowners don't realize is you will lose most of your
>> reveal on your window trim , door trim and crown molding ,ect. and will
>> need to move outlet boxes and light fixtures out 1/2 inch. Although messy
>> it's best to remove plaster especially on the ceiling . All that old
>> plaster weighs ALOT and you can NEVER get the sheetrock to suck the old
>> plaster back up on the ceiling. The sags will remain. Removing it gives
>> you a chance to insulate and upgrade wiring as well which is USUALLY what
>> I recomend unless it is in good shape than I recommend repairing plaster
>> with buttons and Durabond and skimming walls-ceilings with Joint
>> Compound. Pictures would help...
>
> One thing I forgot to mention. Old house, built in 1933, only 780 sq.ft.
> Solid redwood throughout. Came through the Loma Preata earthquake with
> just a few cracks in the plaster.
>
> 85% of the plaster is ok, just minor cracks that can be fixed easily. One
> room has some sagging plaster (about 2' square) from an old leaky roof
> (now fixed). Also has popcorn on the roof.
>
> I plan on removing all the trim around the doors and windows anyway, and
> installing crown moulding (none now).
>
> Insulating is not an issue nor is electrical which was done a couple of
> years ago.
>
> I remember what a mess it was when my kitchen and bathroom were remodled
> and they did remove all the old lath and plaster.
>
> All in all, I would say that the plaster is in good shape so maybe i'm
> better off just haveing it repaired and then painted.
>
> Thanks for your valuable input. Appreciate it.

Repair cracks with Plaster Buttons and 2 inch drywall screws into studs
not just the lathes.. Use Sheetrock Brand Durabond and either paper tape or
mesh tape. I like paper as it covers easier. Skimcoat the walls with a
couple of coats of joint compound then sand it. Use Binz-Kilz primer on any
yellowing. or water stains that bleed through mud and then prime everything.

That ceiling spot that's sagging will need to be cut out square and
patched with 3/8 drywall.Tape with Durabond and finish with joint compound.
If it were me I would scrape all that popcorn off and skimcoat ceilings with
joint compound as it will be impossible to hide the patch otherwise. Good
Luck with your project...
>



Posted by jacksf on June 1, 2007, 3:01 am
benick wrote:
>
>>benick wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Before I start getting bids on a home project I wanted to get the opinion
>>>>of the group.
>>>>
>>>>When putting rock over plaster is there anything I should be aware of
>>>>that could make the job harder or not as smooth? Should firring strips
>>>>be used on the plaster prior to the rock being placed?
>>>>
>>>>TIA
>>>
>>>
>>> First a couple of questions... How bad a shape is the plaster you
>>>plan on going over? Is it falling off the walls and ceiling? Places where
>>>the plaster has fallen off ? Loose lathes? Ect??? One thing to remember
>>>that almost all homeowners don't realize is you will lose most of your
>>>reveal on your window trim , door trim and crown molding ,ect. and will
>>>need to move outlet boxes and light fixtures out 1/2 inch. Although messy
>>>it's best to remove plaster especially on the ceiling . All that old
>>>plaster weighs ALOT and you can NEVER get the sheetrock to suck the old
>>>plaster back up on the ceiling. The sags will remain. Removing it gives
>>>you a chance to insulate and upgrade wiring as well which is USUALLY what
>>>I recomend unless it is in good shape than I recommend repairing plaster
>>>with buttons and Durabond and skimming walls-ceilings with Joint
>>>Compound. Pictures would help...
>>
>>One thing I forgot to mention. Old house, built in 1933, only 780 sq.ft.
>>Solid redwood throughout. Came through the Loma Preata earthquake with
>>just a few cracks in the plaster.
>>
>>85% of the plaster is ok, just minor cracks that can be fixed easily. One
>>room has some sagging plaster (about 2' square) from an old leaky roof
>>(now fixed). Also has popcorn on the roof.
>>
>>I plan on removing all the trim around the doors and windows anyway, and
>>installing crown moulding (none now).
>>
>>Insulating is not an issue nor is electrical which was done a couple of
>>years ago.
>>
>>I remember what a mess it was when my kitchen and bathroom were remodled
>>and they did remove all the old lath and plaster.
>>
>>All in all, I would say that the plaster is in good shape so maybe i'm
>>better off just haveing it repaired and then painted.
>>
>>Thanks for your valuable input. Appreciate it.
>
>
> Repair cracks with Plaster Buttons and 2 inch drywall screws into studs
> not just the lathes.. Use Sheetrock Brand Durabond and either paper tape or
> mesh tape. I like paper as it covers easier. Skimcoat the walls with a
> couple of coats of joint compound then sand it. Use Binz-Kilz primer on any
> yellowing. or water stains that bleed through mud and then prime everything.
>
> That ceiling spot that's sagging will need to be cut out square and
> patched with 3/8 drywall.Tape with Durabond and finish with joint compound.
> If it were me I would scrape all that popcorn off and skimcoat ceilings with
> joint compound as it will be impossible to hide the patch otherwise. Good
> Luck with your project...
>
>
>
Great. Thanks a lot. I think you have answereed the questions I needed.


Page 1 of 3       1 2 3 > last >>
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