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Posted by benick on June 1, 2007, 10:57 pm
>
>> All in all, I would say that the plaster is in good shape so maybe
>> i'm better off just having it repaired and then painted.
>
> Here's an alternate suggestion on how to do the repairs: don't skim
> coat with joint compound. IMHO, one of the benefits of plaster is
> that it is harder than drywall and joint compound.
>
> For linear cracks in plaster, gouge them out a little to remove any
> loose materials and provide a key for the repair. Dampen the edges of
> the crack and fill it with a finish or topcoat plaster such as a
> veneer plaster. For really large cracks, first fill the bulk with an
> aggregated plaster, e.g. a perlited plaster like Struct-o-Lite, then
> apply a thin layer of topcoat plaster.
>
> For delaminated sections, if you have access to the backside, you can
> use an adhesive to readhere the plaster to the lath, and then repair
> any cracks as above. Otherwise, for small sections (a few square
> feet), you could remove the delaminated plaster leaving the lath,
> apply a basecoat of the Struct-o-Lite to the lath, and then topcoat.
> For larger repairs, remove the plaster and lath, fur out the walls to
> within 5/8" of the finish surface, apply 1/2" veneer plasterboard base
> (blueboard), and then apply an 1/8" layer of veneer plaster,
> feathering it out to meet the surrounding area.
>
> Cheers, Wayne
Not a plasterer but I thought new plaster wouldn't bond to old plaster
without first applying a bonding agent. Plaster is twice as messy and twice
as expensive but will also work.
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