|
Posted by Dioclese on April 7, 2008, 9:12 pm
> On Apr 6, 9:27 pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
>> > Dioclese wrote:
>>
>> >> Have been putting this off for 2 years now. Getting a bit expensive
>> >> due
>> >> to heating and AC bills. The house has no skirt around the pier and
>> >> beam
>> >> perimeter. Getting bids now over the next week or 2 from contractors.
>>
>> >> Basically, other than the obvious affect on heating and AC bills, an
>> >> insurance company that I want to go to requires a masonary type skirt
>> >> on
>> >> this type of foundation.
>>
>> >> I've settled on 2 different types. One is the use of Yellawood 4X4s
>> >> for
>> >> framing and Yellawood plywood, with stucco (cheapest overall). The
>> >> other, pouring slabs between the piers and laying one course of 2"
>> >> thick
>> >> (remaining dimensions same as cinder block), followed by cinder block
>> >> on
>> >> sequential runs above the first run. The first course would have open
>> >> joints to allow waterflow on the downhill side. This along with heavy
>> >> rainfall, and potential plumbing breaks. The house is built on a side
>> >> of
>> >> a hill.
>>
>> >> I have previously built the access door and framed around that between
>> >> one set of piers. The house is surrounded by plastic latticework to
>> >> prevent dog entry now, not an air-tight skirt. Their are 2 concerns
>> >> regarding lines. One is the water line which is relatively shallow,
>> >> and
>> >> the 2 AC lines to and from the AC compressor. How should the
>> >> contractor
>> >> approach this?
>>
>> >> Is the stucco meeting the soil line a problem?
>>
>> >> What are the benefits and potential problems with either kind of
>> >> skirt?
>>
>> > How about HardiPanels. Made by James Hardee Co. Or tile backer bd. Once
>> > this stuff is nailed up not much can happen to it for the worse. tonyg
>>
>> Don't want to use the James Hardie stuff for two reasons. Its terribly
>> sensitive to cracking an such from impacts. 2ndly, the stuff should not
>> be
>> use within 1" of the soil line due to wicking. Direct water contact,
>> pooling, makes it excessively brittle. My garage has the James Hardie
>> horizontal siding on it, I've already done my homework on that. House
>> has
>> similar, just different manufacturer.
>>
>> Does anyone know about stucco regarding sitting in pooled water at the
>> soil
>> line?
>
> I wouldn't use wood, whether it was treated or not. I'd use something
> like Azek. It's an expanded PVC product and is great for such
> applications. It takes and holds paint beautifully, and some people
> don't even paint it. http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=13
>
> If the insurance company is insisting on a particular construction
> method, and there's no real benefit, I'd be leery of the company. You
> could use the Hardipanel stucco panels on top of the treated plywood
> if you're concerned about impact.
>
> As far as the stucco, if you're referring to the cementitious stuff,
> it will hold up okay at the soil line as long as you've graded away
> from the house and there's drainage, but be careful of what you'll be
> hiding. http://cowetafayettepest.com/_wsn/page5.html
>
> R
The prospective insurance company insists on a masonary type skirt for fire
retardantcy. That is, imagine a wind-driven fire in the proximity of my
home. Unlikely that PVC would ignite from wind-driven embers and similar,
masonary product will not.
Yellawood is guaranteed for 50 years. Today's wolmanized (treated - green
color) wood products and the previous version can't touch that. However,
I'm leery as you are on wood contact to soil for a long period of time.
Most homes on piers around here have native rock skirts. They also use
primarily steel roofing for fire prevention for many years prior to it
becoming more likely to be used as presently done.
--
Dave
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap