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Posted by Dioclese on April 7, 2008, 9:41 pm
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
>> On Apr 6, 9:27 pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
>>> > Dioclese wrote:
>>>
>>> >> Have been putting this off for 2 years now. Getting a bit expensive
>>> >> due
>>> >> to heating and AC bills. The house has no skirt around the pier and
>>> >> beam
>>> >> perimeter. Getting bids now over the next week or 2 from
>>> >> contractors.
>>>
>>> >> Basically, other than the obvious affect on heating and AC bills, an
>>> >> insurance company that I want to go to requires a masonary type skirt
>>> >> on
>>> >> this type of foundation.
>>>
>>> >> I've settled on 2 different types. One is the use of Yellawood 4X4s
>>> >> for
>>> >> framing and Yellawood plywood, with stucco (cheapest overall). The
>>> >> other, pouring slabs between the piers and laying one course of 2"
>>> >> thick
>>> >> (remaining dimensions same as cinder block), followed by cinder block
>>> >> on
>>> >> sequential runs above the first run. The first course would have
>>> >> open
>>> >> joints to allow waterflow on the downhill side. This along with
>>> >> heavy
>>> >> rainfall, and potential plumbing breaks. The house is built on a
>>> >> side of
>>> >> a hill.
>>>
>>> >> I have previously built the access door and framed around that
>>> >> between
>>> >> one set of piers. The house is surrounded by plastic latticework to
>>> >> prevent dog entry now, not an air-tight skirt. Their are 2 concerns
>>> >> regarding lines. One is the water line which is relatively shallow,
>>> >> and
>>> >> the 2 AC lines to and from the AC compressor. How should the
>>> >> contractor
>>> >> approach this?
>>>
>>> >> Is the stucco meeting the soil line a problem?
>>>
>>> >> What are the benefits and potential problems with either kind of
>>> >> skirt?
>>>
>>> > How about HardiPanels. Made by James Hardee Co. Or tile backer bd.
>>> > Once
>>> > this stuff is nailed up not much can happen to it for the worse. tonyg
>>>
>>> Don't want to use the James Hardie stuff for two reasons. Its terribly
>>> sensitive to cracking an such from impacts. 2ndly, the stuff should not
>>> be
>>> use within 1" of the soil line due to wicking. Direct water contact,
>>> pooling, makes it excessively brittle. My garage has the James Hardie
>>> horizontal siding on it, I've already done my homework on that. House
>>> has
>>> similar, just different manufacturer.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know about stucco regarding sitting in pooled water at the
>>> soil
>>> line?
>>
>> I wouldn't use wood, whether it was treated or not. I'd use something
>> like Azek. It's an expanded PVC product and is great for such
>> applications. It takes and holds paint beautifully, and some people
>> don't even paint it. http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=13
>>
>> If the insurance company is insisting on a particular construction
>> method, and there's no real benefit, I'd be leery of the company. You
>> could use the Hardipanel stucco panels on top of the treated plywood
>> if you're concerned about impact.
>>
>> As far as the stucco, if you're referring to the cementitious stuff,
>> it will hold up okay at the soil line as long as you've graded away
>> from the house and there's drainage, but be careful of what you'll be
>> hiding. http://cowetafayettepest.com/_wsn/page5.html
>>
>> R
>
> The prospective insurance company insists on a masonary type skirt for
> fire retardantcy. That is, imagine a wind-driven fire in the proximity of
> my home. Unlikely that PVC would ignite from wind-driven embers and
> similar, masonary product will not.
>
> Yellawood is guaranteed for 50 years. Today's wolmanized (treated - green
> color) wood products and the previous version can't touch that. However,
> I'm leery as you are on wood contact to soil for a long period of time.
>
> Most homes on piers around here have native rock skirts. They also use
> primarily steel roofing for fire prevention for many years prior to it
> becoming more likely to be used as presently done.
> --
> Dave
>
Thanks for the last link, it gave me an idea how to keep the Hardie siding
off the soil line. Just pour a deeper/higher slab between the piers.
--
Dave
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