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Spliced Ridge Beam T. C. Conde 10-10-2006
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Posted by Jonny on October 12, 2006, 5:53 am
Has been my experience when two ridge boards tie in at a rafter, the nails
tend to overextend the rafter end. And the end of the ridge boards too.
That is, too many nails in too small an area. Have seen nothing in code
regarding where a ridge end should "die", on the rafter or scabbed inbetween
rafters. So, I've always gone with my perspective of "common sense". It
sure does look purty when splicing at a rafter though. And, that seems to
be the prevailing method for some unapparent other than esthetic reason. I
sure don't know what that reason is.
--
Jonny
> This is interesting. I have never seen a ridge spliced. We always broke
> it behind a rafter. Some posters seem to have spliced them. Why? What
> part of the country does that occur in?
>
>> > I have a need for a 2x8x27' ridge beam on a garage
>> > gable roof. I want to do it by splicing two 2x8x14's
>> > together. I've seen a few sagging splices over the
>> > years and I really want to do it right. What Simpson
>> > hardware is used to do that? The garage is 21 x 27 and
>> > uses 2x6 rafters 16" o.c. (4/12 pich), 2x8 ceiling
>> > joists 16" o.c., and this 2x8 ridge. Thanks
>> >
>>
>> If the roof has any kind of overhang, I'd use the ridge
>> board out there too.
>> Layout the ridge board for rafter placement in pencil and
>> framing square. Make the splice in the middle of two
>> rafters. Use one 2X8 scab on both sides of the splice. Cut a bevel on
>> top of the scabs to match the 4 on 12
>> pitch. Use an offset stringline to maintain up and down
>> straightness for the ridge, and straightness in regards
>> to perpendicular to the rafters. Should not be needed
>> however if both outside walls are braced, and are
>> straight and level, and rafters are identical. The ridge
>> board should have a little crown to it, but not
>> excessive, with crown up of course.
>> If working alone or minimal help, probably would have
>> been easier to have a joist beam in the middle of the
>> garage. The beam could temporarily, and/or permanently
>> hold up the ridge until the rafters are in place. 2X6s
>> would be adequate for the ceiling joists in that case. --
>> Jonny
>



Posted by RicodJour on October 14, 2006, 2:17 pm
Glenn wrote:
> This is interesting. I have never seen a ridge spliced. We
> always broke it behind a rafter. Some posters seem to have
> spliced them. Why? What part of the country does that occur in?

I'm in the Northeast. I'm not sure if it's a regional thing or not,
but I know most of the framers around here do it your way. I don't
like that method as there's too much going on in too small of an area.
There can easily be a dozen nails or more, and maybe some metal
connectors. Nailing that close to the end of a board with that many
nails is guaranteed to cause some splitting. I don't like splitting.
It's probably not a big deal structurally, but it's a weak point in the
rafter/ridge connection. Butting the ridge pieces together and using
some blocking to hold them together while the rafters are set doesn't
have those problems and doesn't take any more time.

R


Posted by marson on October 15, 2006, 10:13 pm

I guess someone should ask why the OP doesn't consider using a 7 1/2 x
28 LVL. if you're angsting about splices, you wouldn't need them.

I'm wondering where in the country they are still using such an old
timey system anyway? I have never built a modern house (except for a
small outbuilding or two) that didn't either use trusses or a
structural ridge. I didn't think engineers would touch such a thing
with a 10 foot pole anyway. Definitely not a labor saver!


Posted by PPS on October 13, 2006, 8:00 pm
You could get by with a 1x ridge board (it's pretty much a non-structural
member), but can you get 20' lumber in 2x8 in your area? From Table
R802.4(1) of the IRC, the ceiling joists are not going to go the 19'-3" in
SPF unless you go with Select Structural. (That's for an attic without
storage.) If your in the western states, Doug Fir is ok in #1 grade.

>I have a need for a 2x8x27' ridge beam on a garage gable roof. I want to do
>it by splicing two 2x8x14's together. I've seen a few sagging splices over
>the years and I really want to do it right. What Simpson hardware is used
>to do that? The garage is 21 x 27 and uses 2x6 rafters 16" o.c. (4/12
>pich), 2x8 ceiling joists 16" o.c., and this 2x8 ridge.
>
> Thanks
>



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