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Sprayer versus roller versus power roller

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Sprayer versus roller versus power roller HappyHumanist 01-27-2007
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Posted by Jonny on January 27, 2007, 10:17 am
Here's what I did after they finished the house, I did the interior painting
with assistance from my son. I contracted the floor coverings after
painting.

Go through the entire area with a shop vac, then wet sponge/cloth remainder
on wood trim. Take interior doors off hinges, place on sawhorses and paint.
Let the doors dry outside. Left these doors off during prep, texture and
painting of walls. Caulked all trim to wall areas and set nail holes, and
joints in trim. Masked off trim, exterior doors/all hinges, windows, light
fixtures, wall outlets, bathroom and kitchen non-wall areas etc. Used the
blue tape almost exclusively All this took about 2 days. Textured all the
walls and ceilings with rented spray texture and hopper. Opened 2 exterior
doors and air dried for 2 days.

Regarding painting, there's not enough light in the rooms, you may have to
open some windows or provide artificial lighting cuz the texture covered
most of the light entry from the covered windows. I rented a commercial
sprayer and compressor. The corners of the rooms where they meet the
ceiling are toughest to get painted. Each room took about 30-45 minutes to
paint. I started pulling the tape off after about 3 hours drying time.
Primed all first, used oil based primer in bathrooms and kitchen. Used oil
based paint in bathrooms and kitchen. Brush painted all the trim with
primer and enamel. Reinstalled interior doors on the hinges last.

Most time consuming was prep followed by trim painting. Be sure the window
masking is well attached, overspray may lift and paint the glass. Avoid
shortcuts on the masking/prep, will save you alot of time afterwards.
--
Jonny
> We just bought a new spec house, and we're painting it ourselves as
> soon as the drywall is textured. I've heard a lot of bad things about
> Wagner Paint Crew power sprayers. What's the best way for a DIY person
> to paint the interior of a new house?
>
> Wagner-type sprayer?
> Rent a professional sprayer?
> Roller?
> Power roller?
>
> Also, do I need to prime the texture? I've heard you should, but a guy
> told me that the sprayed-on texture has primer built-in.
>
> And should we caulk where our white window/door trim meets the drywall
> before cutting in the color on the walls?
>
> --- Bob
>



Posted by C & E on February 2, 2007, 9:26 pm

> Here's what I did after they finished the house, I did the interior
> painting with assistance from my son. I contracted the floor coverings
> after painting.
>
> Go through the entire area with a shop vac, then wet sponge/cloth
> remainder on wood trim. Take interior doors off hinges, place on
> sawhorses and paint. Let the doors dry outside. Left these doors off
> during prep, texture and painting of walls. Caulked all trim to wall
> areas and set nail holes, and joints in trim. Masked off trim, exterior
> doors/all hinges, windows, light fixtures, wall outlets, bathroom and
> kitchen non-wall areas etc. Used the blue tape almost exclusively All
> this took about 2 days. Textured all the walls and ceilings with rented
> spray texture and hopper. Opened 2 exterior doors and air dried for 2
> days.
>
> Regarding painting, there's not enough light in the rooms, you may have to
> open some windows or provide artificial lighting cuz the texture covered
> most of the light entry from the covered windows. I rented a commercial
> sprayer and compressor. The corners of the rooms where they meet the
> ceiling are toughest to get painted. Each room took about 30-45 minutes
> to paint. I started pulling the tape off after about 3 hours drying time.
> Primed all first, used oil based primer in bathrooms and kitchen. Used
> oil based paint in bathrooms and kitchen. Brush painted all the trim with
> primer and enamel. Reinstalled interior doors on the hinges last.
>
> Most time consuming was prep followed by trim painting. Be sure the
> window masking is well attached, overspray may lift and paint the glass.
> Avoid shortcuts on the masking/prep, will save you alot of time
> afterwards.
> --
> Jonny
>> We just bought a new spec house, and we're painting it ourselves as
>> soon as the drywall is textured. I've heard a lot of bad things about
>> Wagner Paint Crew power sprayers. What's the best way for a DIY person
>> to paint the interior of a new house?
>>
>> Wagner-type sprayer?
>> Rent a professional sprayer?
>> Roller?
>> Power roller?
>>
>> Also, do I need to prime the texture? I've heard you should, but a guy
>> told me that the sprayed-on texture has primer built-in.
>>
>> And should we caulk where our white window/door trim meets the drywall
>> before cutting in the color on the walls?
>>
>> --- Bob
>>


That's a pretty good plan, Bob. If for any reason the OP can't spray I'd
use a power roller. I have one that works like a caulking gun. You draw
the paint into the hollow handle using a special fitting. Advancing the
paint down (up when you're rolling) the tube to the roller, which has a
perforated interior tube to allow paint to the nap, is done by squeezing a
lever on the handle. I found it easy to use and waaay faster than the usual
roller method.



Posted by Steve B on January 27, 2007, 10:25 pm


What's the best way for a DIY person
>>> to paint the interior of a new house?

Roller is good if you're a pro and know how to do it without getting a lot
of lines.

New house is infinitely different than doing it with stuff in there. I used
a Graco XR7, and was pleased as punch. You have one person spray, and
another roll right behind them with a sheepskin roller. Have several
rollers, and change to a drier one as that one loads up. You get lots of
paint on there for a first coat, and the backrolling puts a nice stipple on
it. Once a roller gets full, just wash it with a water jet, no need to take
out all the paint to use it for backrolling. In fact, don't use one dry,
but put some amount of paint on it before you backroll, or your stipple
pattern will be noticeably uneven.

You also get overspray on EVERYTHING, so prep is vital.

Also, spray the walls first if they are going to be a different color than
the ceiling. Let the spray go up enough to get into the corners, a little
onto the ceiling. Let dry for a couple of days. Tape off the walls with
GOOD TAPE AND 18" strips of paper. Now spray the ceiling, backrolling it,
too. Pull the tape and paper with the paint wet, or you will pull off a lot
of stuff you don't want to. Do the final cut in with a one inch tapered
brush.

I know that paint sprayers aren't the most popular ways to paint, and there
are lots of nuances to them, but if you are doing NEW construction, and the
overspray won't get on furniture or appliances, it's the best way IMHO to go
and get a thick coat of paint on evenly and have it look good once it dries.

The sprayer also shines when spraying over popcorn. Mask and spray, and it
looks like new. Although, it is about as easy to just remove the popcorn,
and once you've painted the popcorn, it is a pure D bitch to get off
compared to unpainted.

No comparison outside for block walls and open areas as well.

Don't waste your money on the wanna be Wagner Power Sprayers and the like.
I got an XR7 on ebay for $325, and it has saved me that much, and more.
Plus, two guys can paint 250' of block wall before lunch. Try that with a
roller.

Just my experiences. YMMV.

Steve



Posted by Steve Barker on January 27, 2007, 11:30 pm
It don't take a pro to roll on paint.

--
Steve Barker


>
>
> What's the best way for a DIY person
>>>> to paint the interior of a new house?
>
> Roller is good if you're a pro and know how to do it without getting a lot
> of lines.
>
> Steve
>



Posted by Steve B on January 28, 2007, 12:45 am

> It don't take a pro to roll on paint.
>
> --
> Steve Barker

No, it don't. But there are some tricks in doing it so that a month from
now, you can look at it at an angle and not see all the roller marks. It
all depends on what type of end product you are satisfied with.

Steve



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