Squeaky stair repair?

Posted by John E. on October 24, 2006, 7:53 pm

Googling squeaky stair repair, I see 2 different recommendations: wedges from
below, and nails from above.

Where are hardwood wedges available? I see the soft ones, about 8 inches
long, but they are soft wood, not something I want to trust to keep the stair
treads in place. Where can I find hardwood ones?

If I go the nail route from the top of the stairs, what's the best nail? 8d
is recommended, but should ring-shank, or resin-coated, or...? It's been
awhile since I looked at nail technology, so recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks,
--
John English

Posted by John E. on October 25, 2006, 9:16 pm

Nobody You'd Know:

> Self tapping screws installed with an electric drill have worked for me.
> They're usually located in the same area of the store as drywall screws. Be
> sure to get them long enough to go deep into the risers.

Do you suggest going into the risers from below the stairs or from above? Or
both?

Screws are better, to be sure, but not as easily hidden. Sure you can
countersink and dowel or putty over, but hiding a finishing nail driven from
above is much easier than a screw in the same place.

And driving into stringers (they're beefier and easier to hit, yes?) is
easier than into risers. Probably should run into both.

Thanks,
--
John English

Posted by Justin West on October 25, 2006, 3:40 pm

I don't think I understand your scenario; however, will comment with my
own experience.

I had a board that broke under my light (coughs) touch when walking
down the stairs. I replaced the rather weak plywood with a 3/4" piece
and used screws (going down into the risers) and placed carpet over it.
The thicker ply and screws really helped reduce, even eliminate
squeaking.

My only thought on going up or down with screws would be on reducing
risk of having a screw tip enter one's foot no?

JW...

John E. wrote:

> Nobody You'd Know:

> > Self tapping screws installed with an electric drill have worked for me.
> > They're usually located in the same area of the store as drywall screws. Be
> > sure to get them long enough to go deep into the risers.

> Do you suggest going into the risers from below the stairs or from above? Or
> both?
> Screws are better, to be sure, but not as easily hidden. Sure you can
> countersink and dowel or putty over, but hiding a finishing nail driven from
> above is much easier than a screw in the same place.
> And driving into stringers (they're beefier and easier to hit, yes?) is
> easier than into risers. Probably should run into both.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> John English

Posted by mm on October 26, 2006, 11:36 pm

wrote:

>Googling squeaky stair repair, I see 2 different recommendations: wedges from
>below, and nails from above.
>Where are hardwood wedges available? I see the soft ones, about 8 inches
>long, but they are soft wood, not something I want to trust to keep the stair
>treads in place. Where can I find hardwood ones?

Make your own?

>If I go the nail route from the top of the stairs, what's the best nail? 8d
>is recommended, but should ring-shank, or resin-coated, or...?

I don't think you need ring shank or anything special if you do what
I've done and seen done other places to keep nails from coming out.
Put them in at an angle, 20 or 30 degrees maybe. Then put a second
nail in leaning the opposite direction. Any forces that push the
tread up will have to move the tread in one direction to move up one
nail, and in the other direction to lift the other. Believe you me,
it's a real nuisance when you want to separate pieces of wood that
have been nailed this way. One has to take at least one of the two
nails out first.

Have someone heavy and fat stand on the step when you do this. (Has
to be heavy and fat. If just fat, it could be a fat 5-foot woman, or
a fat 6-year old.)

> It's been
>awhile since I looked at nail technology, so recommendations are appreciated.
>Thanks,

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