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Posted by marson on August 13, 2006, 8:43 am
>
> That still sounds very wrong. We bought a tract house in indiana maybe
> ten years ago. The full basement option price over a slab was maybe
> $15,000. That was for maybe a 1900 sqft two story house. Maybe your
> 2100 is a 1 story house, but still, at twice the price, it's still half
> your estimate.
my price is for a custom house, not comparable to a tract house. your
proposal is for a custom house.
>
> Our building would be a rectangle by the way.
a basement that size presents logistical problems not encountered on a
smaller project. you would need a contractor used to working on
commercial projects.
>
>
> I didn't consider the fill. We're planning on buying some acreage
> though. I wouldn't mind a hill on the property where a low spot used
> to be.
and you can't just dump 2000 yds of fill out of a dumptruck and voila,
hill! you'll need a dozer on site too. betcha the tract builder you
bought your house from didn't have to do that!
>
> yeah, I was thinking around $60k for materials and labor.
well, maybe your area is very much cheaper than my area. good luck!
let us know what you find out.
>
>
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Posted by Judanne on August 12, 2006, 10:55 pm
Wow, to me that looks just like a garage, or a barn. I thought you meant a
steel framed building, something like this http://www.nusteel.com.au/
Their selling point is that 2 people with a spanner (wrench) can put up the
framing in one weekend.
Judanne
(Australia)
> marson wrote:
>> brianlanning@gmail.com wrote:
>> what do you mean by a steel building? a steel post frame building?
>
> Yeah, this sort of thing: http://www.steelbuilding.com/
>
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Posted by DT on August 13, 2006, 9:35 am
We do concrete work,but have done nothing as large as a 50 x 100 pad. But that
is 55 yards of concrete, call and see what fiber reinforced concrete delivers
for in your area, just to get a feel for the material costs. It varies widely
across the US, from $100 to over $400 per yard depending on location.
Have you considered the tremendous costs for the floor struture if you don't
build on a slab? You will need a 50' steel beam every 10 feet or so, 9 of them.
And to keep the beam depth (and costs) reasonable, each beam will need a
support column every 10 feet or so. So that is 36 columns, each one of which
will need it's own footer poured before the floor can go down.
Then figure in 5000 sq ft of floor joists, and 3/4" tongue and groove
underlayment that you wouldn't need if you build on a slab.
--
Dennis
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Posted by brianlanning on August 15, 2006, 9:06 am
DT wrote:
> Have you considered the tremendous costs for the floor struture if you don't
> build on a slab?
Yes, but I havn't gotten that far yet.
The good news is that I think I've talked my wife out of a basement.
It looks like it makes more sense to put it on a slab, but order an 18'
or 20' high building instead of the 10'. Then we can add a second
level inside the building.
There was an episode of Offbeat America on about a week ago showing a
guy in kentucky that did just about exactly what we want. He had a two
story steel building, sort of the loft look on the inside.
We'll probably go that route.
brian
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Posted by Private on August 22, 2006, 5:13 pm
> DT wrote:
>> Have you considered the tremendous costs for the floor struture if you
>> don't
>> build on a slab?
>
> Yes, but I havn't gotten that far yet.
>
> The good news is that I think I've talked my wife out of a basement.
> It looks like it makes more sense to put it on a slab, but order an 18'
> or 20' high building instead of the 10'. Then we can add a second
> level inside the building.
The cost of the floor will be similar no matter what level it is. The major
structural framing cost will depend on the amount of clear span you want
below and whether there will be bearing walls to support the floor above.
Most of us hate columns as they limit the usability of the area but they are
cheaper than large clear spans. You will probably need an engineers stamp
on the floor. There are many options from wood joists and subfloor to
commercial type open web steel joists and concrete deck. I would suggest
you talk with some residential and commercial builders for advice and
estimates.
> There was an episode of Offbeat America on about a week ago showing a
> guy in kentucky that did just about exactly what we want. He had a two
> story steel building, sort of the loft look on the inside.
Most people in the north consider a basement to be the cheapest area you can
build and it helps with heating costs and makes a great place for heating
and plumbing equipment and a workshop or garage. I have always been a big
fan of underdrive garages as they are heated almost for free and are a very
versatile area. A 50 foot width would be a natural for posts 12 feet from
the walls with a 25 foot clear span in the middle. 50 feet of this would
give you a tandem-double garage with lots of space on the sides and you
still have only used half of the basement. Whether this is possible or
desirable depends on the topography of your property, as a driveway sloping
down to a garage has its own problems with water and snow. IMHO the ideal
is a house built into a slope with an underdrive garage and a south facing
walkout basement.
No matter what you do you still need to get the foundation down below the
frost and need to insulate the perimeter. The basement needs to have a
higher ceiling than you are probably thinking of and 9 feet under the floor
joists and air ducts would be nice, (8 foot min.). You do not need to
excavate the complete depth of the basement and by using a five foot
excavation you can reduce the amount of dirt and concrete costs and also
will be able to have windows above the ground which will be about 4 feet off
the basement floor. You can make the basement wall a mix of concrete below
grade and a short pony wall of anything else above grade. If you excavate 3
feet deep you can use the dirt as fill around the building which will give
you a slope to the backfill and provide good drainage away from the house.
Elevating the house will also improve the view out the main floor windows.
Steel is a great building material, particularly for roofing. The factory
prepainted (galvanized) steel roof has been on my house for 25 years and
looks like new with no signs of corrosion anywhere. There is no reason why
you cannot use a mix of steel and wood or brick for the outside wall framing
and covering. Steel can be a little boring visually but can be made quite
attractive with the right wood or masonry accents at the corners and windows
and in any case is no worse (and many would say a lot better) than vinyl
siding. Often people use contrasting colors of steel to get away from the
industrial look.
I would suggest you get a BIG pad of paper and start making LOTS of
different plans. It is easy to move lines on paper and you can try out lots
of different ideas and after you estimate the quantities and come up with
the costs of materials in your area you will begin to see some patterns.
The best rule is to do a complete and honest estimate of all the costs, then
double the cost and triple the time to completion. CAUTION house building
is the cause of many divorces.
Good luck, YMMV
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