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Posted by Richard on January 7, 2007, 12:08 am
> I'm not sure I follow everything you are saying
you are
> usually, stairs in houses (not off of decks like is shown at your link)
> are built between two walls
Yes...that's how the old stairs were. I didn't
want to mimick the old stringers for many reasons.
Installing the new using the old concept appears
beyond my skill so I'm looking into "common"
practices.
Thank you
>
> Richard wrote:
> > I'm building stairs from my first floor
> > to the second floor of my house.
> > I'm using 2x12x16' stringers
> >
> > One person says a certain method
> > is good and another says it is not. As
> > far as local building codes go, there's
> > no way I can call them, my house is a
> > disaster at the moment. However, my
> > reluctance to contact them doesn't mean
> > I don't want to do this right.
> >
> > Anyway, I just left a web site where the guy
> > said that making the top tread flush with the
> > platform is "By far the preferred method".
> > Whoa!!! Everyone tells me you can't do that!!
> > To me it seems the most logical approach.
> > Why is everyone telling me not to do that?
> > That is, except for this web site.
> > http://www.jself.com/stair/straight/Stringer.htm
> >
> >
> > The book I bought at Lowes recommends
> > double 2x10 with a 3/4 inch plywood attached
> > to the front of them. In the picture it looks like
> > half the stringer will attach to the 2x10 through
> > the plywood but the rest will just be on the
> > plywood. My ceiling Joist is a 2x8,
> > how does this method help me?
> > The stringer will barely be on the 2x8
> > because it has to be 7 inches down from the
> > top landing. Is this a stupid recommendation
> > ..or am I stupid?
> >
> > Others say to hook the last riser behind the 2x8 joist.
> > How in the world am I going to do the Math on that?
> > I gotta end up with an extra riser that has a run just
> > before it that is 1 7/8 inch longer than all the others?
> > Or get this, this web site says to make the last tread
> > an extra 2 inches to add in the joist width.
> > They said, "this doesn't usually weaken the stringer
> > substantially".
> > Is it EVER wise to reduce the strength of a 16 foot board
> > with huge notches cut out anymore than you have too?
> > And to boot, isn't this clever modification at the worst posible
> > place....the point of attachment?
> >
> > If anybody has any insight on what is really going on
> > please bring me into the light. For now, I'll just keep using
> > the ladder.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jerome
>
> I'm not sure I follow everything you are saying. first of all,
> usually, stairs in houses (not off of decks like is shown at your link)
> are built between two walls, or at least have a wall under them, and
> you can fasten the side stringers to walls on both sides. IMHO this is
> the best way as fastening the stringers to the upper deck is sort of a
> moot point (I use a joist hangar for the center stringer). running the
> decking over the first "tread" (technically it would not be a tread,
> but part of the second floor deck) can be done, but isn't typically, at
> least where I'm from.. part of the reason is that in new construction,
> you cut the stair hole well before you build the stairs. In cases
> where you have 2x8 joists, ( don't see that much these days) you can
> fasten a piece of 3/4 plywood to the top plumb cut of your stringers
> and nail that to the joist. If you are concerned about the strength of
> your stringers, you can add a 2x4 or even 2. But again, if your side
> stringers are tied hard to walls or have walls built under them, I've
> never had to do this.
>
> all your risers and treads should be the same distance.
>
> in stair building, there is definitely more than one way to skin a cat,
> and most of them work.
>
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